My daughter was getting a little warm in her bunk during our last camping trip, so I decided to put her a fan in to keep the air flowing.
I had been wanting to add a 12-volt fan to the main living area anyway, so I decided to tackle both jobs today. A trip to Wal-Mart for two fans($8.48 each) and we're halfway there.
She picked the spot, and I got to work -
I picked up the power from her overhead light. All I have left is to install a short piece of wire cover and I'm done -
I added one in the main area -
I dropped by Lowe's and found this cool soap dispenser. I also just installed these Pop-a-Toothbrush holders -
I added a sopa dispenser to the kitchen area as well. I also installed a Pop-a-Napkin under the radio -
Here's an easy mod. I found this over the door towel rack at Walmart and it works great -
I had been wanting to add a 12-volt fan to the main living area anyway, so I decided to tackle both jobs today. A trip to Wal-Mart for two fans($8.48 each) and we're halfway there.
She picked the spot, and I got to work -
I picked up the power from her overhead light. All I have left is to install a short piece of wire cover and I'm done -
I added one in the main area -
I dropped by Lowe's and found this cool soap dispenser. I also just installed these Pop-a-Toothbrush holders -
I added a sopa dispenser to the kitchen area as well. I also installed a Pop-a-Napkin under the radio -
Here's an easy mod. I found this over the door towel rack at Walmart and it works great -
An RV-Compatible Windspeed Meter
For years I have been wanting to put together something portable to measure windspeed while weโre out camping. I can report here on a successful project.
Parts list:
Pole-mount anemometer
12V 2-pin waterproof connector
1-inch stainless hose clamps
Package of โbroom clipsโ
Aircraft hardware: 2 #10 roundhead screws and self-lock nuts
3/4-inch PVC (at least 10 feet, cut into manageable pieces)
3/4-inch PVC unions (as many as you need)
Folgerโs coffee container
The most expensive part of the measurement system is the anemometer, and I found one on Amazon. Do a search for โPole Mount Anemometer, by Windspeed Vortex,โ and youโll be directed to one of the least expensive (about $75) reliable anemometers on the web. Part of their secret for keeping the cost down is to use a bicycle speedometer. The display isnโt huge but watch-sized is enough to do the job, and for us in RVs, it saves space on the wall. It also records peak and average speeds โ a bonus. Iโll throw in a photo hereโฆ
The anemometer comes with bare-wire to bare-wire connections. I used plain-Jane two-pin 12V automotive connectors for it because theyโre positive, waterproof, CHEAP, and good for about a thousand connect-disconnect cycles. Hereโs a photo of the connector type.
The mounting pole was the biggest challenge. You can't use EMT because it will rust eventually, and if you're carrying it inside the RV, then... yuck. Next best thing is 3/4-inch Schedule 80 PVC. I bought a standard 10-foot length at the hardware store and had them cut it into 3-foot, 4-inch (equal) pieces. I got a couple of unions so that I wouldnโt have to glue anything and I could knock it down into reasonable-length pieces. Get the longest length unions you can, so that thereโs more structural integrity. Here's a photo of what I'm talking about.
Once we have the mast taken care of, a knockdown mount for the anemometer is simple. A couple of stainless 1-inch worm-drive hose clamps do the trick. Feed the cable down through the PVC and tighten down the clamps. Running the cable through the inside of the pipe instead of the outside keeps it from slapping and banging in the wind. Hereโs a look at how the head goes together.
So the next thing is how to clip it to the trailerโs ladder. I got some โbroom clipsโ during that same trip to the hardware store and a bit of โaircraft hardwareโ (self-locking) to hold the clips back-to-back so that I can snap the clip over the ladder and then push the pole into the clip. Hereโs a photo.
Here's a look at the finished and working result.
Because of the amount of flex in the PVC pipe, it works best if the top clip is as high up on the ladder as possible. I moved the clip after I shot this photo.
I bet youโre waiting for me to get around to the Folgerโs container. It was the only thing around that had about the right amount of volume and was about the right size to keep the sending head from getting damaged. I cut a slit in the lid to allow the mounting post to stick out, but keep everything inside and organized. Hereโs a shot of how it looks (click to enlarge), all packed up and ready for the lid to go on. Sorry about the fuzzy shot; sun was going downโฆ
One note on the cable. Coil the cable up in under-over fashion, not around-and-around. The conductors are about 36 gauge and could be broken by this kind of improper handling. The cable does a good job of protecting the conductors, but if you coil it up around-and-around style, like over your hand for instance, you force the conductors to flex and twist excessively - and eventually they will break from the twisting. Remembering to coil the cable under-over is an acceptable compromise for a low-cost anemometer.
Hope you enjoyed this; Iโm enjoying using my windspeed meter!
More details (and better photos), GO Here - CLICKY
For years I have been wanting to put together something portable to measure windspeed while weโre out camping. I can report here on a successful project.
Parts list:
Pole-mount anemometer
12V 2-pin waterproof connector
1-inch stainless hose clamps
Package of โbroom clipsโ
Aircraft hardware: 2 #10 roundhead screws and self-lock nuts
3/4-inch PVC (at least 10 feet, cut into manageable pieces)
3/4-inch PVC unions (as many as you need)
Folgerโs coffee container
The most expensive part of the measurement system is the anemometer, and I found one on Amazon. Do a search for โPole Mount Anemometer, by Windspeed Vortex,โ and youโll be directed to one of the least expensive (about $75) reliable anemometers on the web. Part of their secret for keeping the cost down is to use a bicycle speedometer. The display isnโt huge but watch-sized is enough to do the job, and for us in RVs, it saves space on the wall. It also records peak and average speeds โ a bonus. Iโll throw in a photo hereโฆ
The anemometer comes with bare-wire to bare-wire connections. I used plain-Jane two-pin 12V automotive connectors for it because theyโre positive, waterproof, CHEAP, and good for about a thousand connect-disconnect cycles. Hereโs a photo of the connector type.
The mounting pole was the biggest challenge. You can't use EMT because it will rust eventually, and if you're carrying it inside the RV, then... yuck. Next best thing is 3/4-inch Schedule 80 PVC. I bought a standard 10-foot length at the hardware store and had them cut it into 3-foot, 4-inch (equal) pieces. I got a couple of unions so that I wouldnโt have to glue anything and I could knock it down into reasonable-length pieces. Get the longest length unions you can, so that thereโs more structural integrity. Here's a photo of what I'm talking about.
Once we have the mast taken care of, a knockdown mount for the anemometer is simple. A couple of stainless 1-inch worm-drive hose clamps do the trick. Feed the cable down through the PVC and tighten down the clamps. Running the cable through the inside of the pipe instead of the outside keeps it from slapping and banging in the wind. Hereโs a look at how the head goes together.
So the next thing is how to clip it to the trailerโs ladder. I got some โbroom clipsโ during that same trip to the hardware store and a bit of โaircraft hardwareโ (self-locking) to hold the clips back-to-back so that I can snap the clip over the ladder and then push the pole into the clip. Hereโs a photo.
Here's a look at the finished and working result.
Because of the amount of flex in the PVC pipe, it works best if the top clip is as high up on the ladder as possible. I moved the clip after I shot this photo.
I bet youโre waiting for me to get around to the Folgerโs container. It was the only thing around that had about the right amount of volume and was about the right size to keep the sending head from getting damaged. I cut a slit in the lid to allow the mounting post to stick out, but keep everything inside and organized. Hereโs a shot of how it looks (click to enlarge), all packed up and ready for the lid to go on. Sorry about the fuzzy shot; sun was going downโฆ
One note on the cable. Coil the cable up in under-over fashion, not around-and-around. The conductors are about 36 gauge and could be broken by this kind of improper handling. The cable does a good job of protecting the conductors, but if you coil it up around-and-around style, like over your hand for instance, you force the conductors to flex and twist excessively - and eventually they will break from the twisting. Remembering to coil the cable under-over is an acceptable compromise for a low-cost anemometer.
Hope you enjoyed this; Iโm enjoying using my windspeed meter!
More details (and better photos), GO Here - CLICKY
Could you post your source for these lights?
Looks neat, tidy & classy!
Shari
Looks neat, tidy & classy!
Shari
Rob8484 wrote:
I installed LED strip light on my awning, they work great, it sticks with 3M tape. I wired it up to a switch in the trailer. I just unplug them at the awning roller tube, and they roll right up in the awning, gives off a nice light!
