Cool Mods - Thread restored 10/18/2012

[2Rad4U]

My daughter was getting a little warm in her bunk during our last camping trip, so I decided to put her a fan in to keep the air flowing.

I had been wanting to add a 12-volt fan to the main living area anyway, so I decided to tackle both jobs today. A trip to Wal-Mart for two fans($8.48 each) and we're halfway there.

She picked the spot, and I got to work -



I picked up the power from her overhead light. All I have left is to install a short piece of wire cover and I'm done -



I added one in the main area -



I dropped by Lowe's and found this cool soap dispenser. I also just installed these Pop-a-Toothbrush holders -



I added a sopa dispenser to the kitchen area as well. I also installed a Pop-a-Napkin under the radio -



Here's an easy mod. I found this over the door towel rack at Walmart and it works great -

[Stephensx04]

Fisherguy wrote:
I hope it's not a Lippert frame you're hanging that off.

Care to elaborate on that?

[SabreCanuck]

I finally got around to finishing off adding some drawers to the Bullet... Just waiting for some trim to come in from Keystone to finish things off..

New pot drawer under the bench.




New drawers for DW's drawers :):)

[Fisherguy]

I hope it's not a Lippert frame you're hanging that off.

[Stephensx04]

No we looked at that closely. The main frame rails are actually an I beam setup. The the 2x4 box tubing is welded to that very well. The bottom of the box tubing is saddled in the I beam main frame. We added an extra weld or 2 to them also. The 2x4 box tubing that the bumper is welded to is only about 3-4 inches off the main I beam frame. I can shoot a couple more pics tomorrow when its Light out.

[HedoTravelers]

Looking good! Are you planning on sleeving the frame rails for extra strength?

[Stephensx04]

Well searched through all pages up till now. Just did my first mod to my brand new summerland 2670BH. For our use of our trailer the majority of our use we need to have a generator as there is no power. Other 25% we want to bring bikes with. Well we all know the bumpers can't hold anything. Step by step photos. Thanks for the huge help from my Father-in-law and Brother in law.

Original thin useless bumper



First thing was to cut it off.


Bumper all cut off and frame rails cleaned up and squared.



The original bumper is only .060 thick wall tubing. The new bumper is .125 wall. Much heaver. The frame rails are .125 also so that is strong enough

We mocked up and cut 3 square holes int he new bumper.



A second plate was fitted across a beam that ran from frame rail to frame rail. This was also done in .125 think steal to add strength to the new setup. Also to take out any twist that can happen from weight added to rear bumper.


Here it is all primed and read to be welded to camper. The backing plate was drilled and plug welded to cross brace frame rail to frame rail.


Mocked up in place for final welding


I will shoot a final pic later. Still need to put a final coat of black paint on it. Looks factory.

[Lady_Fitzgerald]

Fisherguy wrote:
The software they use here is pretty bad, doing a search is just painful but this isn't regally the place to air our opinions... 😉

Use Google Advanced Search to search only in the www.rvnet.com domain

[Fisherguy]

The software they use here is pretty bad, doing a search is just painful but this isn't regally the place to air our opinions... 😉

[TMBLSN]

beemerphile1 wrote:

TreeSeeker wrote:

...It was the last post on page 180 by WBROWN62...

A forum tip; page numbers depend on your personal settings. You can choose how many posts are on a page so for me this thread is currently 91 pages long.

Right, I can't believe that the default is still 10 posts/page. The optional 20 still isn't enough. How about 40, 50, 100, ALL.

There is a way to see this ENTIRE thread on one page. Depending on your internet connection, this could take between about a minute and a day to load.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/19777656/print/true.cfm

This forum was designed for dial-up and hasn't 'grown up' with broadband. (no photo hosting is another antiquated 'feature')

[Lady_Fitzgerald]

wbrown62 wrote:
Heck, I just referred to them as dowels because I couldn't think of a better term at the moment. I figured if I used the word "square" before "dowel" that most folks would understand...

No worries. Most of us figured it out.

[wbrown62]

BTW, Google has over 2 million hits for the term "square dowel".

Greg, I came VERY close to using the same cove molding. Even had it in my hand headed to the checkout, but returned and grabbed the......UH, UMMM......."square" dowels for various other reasons.

[wbrown62]

Heck, I just referred to them as dowels because I couldn't think of a better term at the moment. I figured if I used the word "square" before "dowel" that most folks would understand.

On another note, I went back and read my post about using short screws "from the outside". It makes it seem like I was going to put screws from the outside of the TT through to the inside. I should have clarified that a little more to read from the exterior portion of the wardrobe wall that faces toward the bed and adjacent to the overhead cabinets. That is the wall that is doubled in my TT and I intended to screw from the inside of the overhead cabinet into the wardrobe and the square "dowel", but THAT wall is doubled therefore, I was unable to do what I originally planned. I just felt like that wallboard was too thin to screw into. Totally confused now? So am I, so I will quit while I am ahead..............if I am 🙂

[tedrowan]

Like she says!

[Lady_Fitzgerald]

Dowels can be any shape, even fluted or threaded, although round is, by far, the most common. A dowel is used to key two pieces together. The "square dowels" referred to earlier are actually cleats.

[SabreCanuck]

Well, that certainly clears that up. :):)