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Daunting it's not...rooftop AC replacement

jdc1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I took an hour out of my morning to replace my rooftop AC unit on my 5th wheel. Folks....do not pay someone to do this. It is VERY simple to do, even for the faint of heart. Just a few screws and long bolts. The only hard part is deciding where to put the ladder, to use as a "long ramp" to pull the new unit up on the roof. You'll need help for about 5 minutes, to load and unload the units from the rooftop. Note: There is a temperature thing that clamps onto the coil.....do not be afraid to pull it off. The rest is pretty elementary. Save yourself hours of frustration and hundreds of dollars by not going to an RV repair shop.
23 REPLIES 23

Dave5143
Explorer
Explorer
Interesting topic. I'll remember these suggestions if I ever need to replace ours.
Dave & Mary

2012 Denali 289RK
Ford F250 Lariat Powerstroke 6.7L Diesel

krobbe
Explorer
Explorer
My polebuilding has rafters at about 14ft. A rope and pulley to lower the old one and lift the new one worked for me. A tree branch would work also.
Me'62, DW'67, DS'04, DD'07
'03 Chevy Suburban 2500LT 4WD Vortec8.1L 4L85-E 3.73 CurtClassV
'09 BulletPremier295BHS 33'4" 7200#Loaded 1100#Tongue Equal-i-zerHitch Tires:Kumho857
Pics

Matt1221
Explorer
Explorer
Might have to add a second a/c at some point thank's for the encouragement.

ajriding
Explorer II
Explorer II
Yes, you are right. The hard part is just getting the unit on the roof.
They weight 95-110 lbs typically, so are heavy and you need to be careful handling it and not put your fist through the radiator fins (coils).

I use a 30 foot extension ladder, extended not quite to 30 feet, as a ramp and a small piece of plywood as a sled to slide it up. Take your time.
I also use a small board to protect the roof once up there.

The gasket is actually held on with double sided tape, and is removed with a scraper or knife. Not rocket science so close counts.

Make sure camper is not plugged into power.
The electrical is quite easy. White to white wire, black to black, green to green, and usually these are all connected with wire nuts stuffed into a small box.

Here is me "ramping" my fridge through the window opening since I did not take pic of me ramping the AC to the roof.

rbpru
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have a 2010 vintage "Lite" TT. The manufacturer said I needed to place plywood boards down before I could walk on my roof.

With my fear of heights, it has not been an issue. ๐Ÿ™‚
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

Cocky_Camper
Explorer II
Explorer II
Yep. We replace both of our on our class A our self. $1,100 for both units. Repair shop wanted $4,100 Materials and Labor to replace them.

We managed to get them on the roof standing on the side of the service truck and lifting to two people on the RV roof.
2004 Sea Breeze by National RV - 8341

Former Coaches:
2006 Keystone Zeppeline 291 - TT
2000 Aerolite Cub F21 - Hybrid TT
1991 Coleman Pop Up

Formerly known as: hybrid_camper

allen8106
Explorer
Explorer
webwrangler wrote:
How much does the average AC unit weigh? Just curious--my TT doesn't have AC.


Spec sheet on my Coleman unit says 93 pounds.
2010 Eagle Super Lite 315RLDS
2018 GMC Sierra 3500HD 6.6L Duramax

2010 Nights 45
2011 Nights 70
2012 Nights 144
2013 Nights 46
2014 Nights 49
2015 Nights 57
2016 Nights 73
2017 Nights 40
2018 Nights 56
2019 Nights 76
2020 Nights 68

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
I had no issue lifting the AC to the roof of Popup. But had to build a bridge to hold me off the roof while moved it to hole.
I have trouble working overhead. The long bolts have no guide to hole, hard to start while holding the inside plate in place. I cut couple of pieces of all-thread longer than bolts. Screwed them in, slid plate on the studs, and started nuts. With them holding it was easy to start bolts. Double nut studs, replace with bolts.
About the loc-tight? Yes the bolts loosen over time. But are you sure it is the bolts backing out? I think it is just as likely that the weight, and shaking is compressing the gasket. IMHO, compared to the other maintenance on a RV, pulling and cleaning the inside cover, checking the bolts once a year is NBD

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
It was fairly easy. I used the farm loader tractor to lift the AC on to the roof top for me.

crasster
Explorer II
Explorer II
It's those teeny times in life that we wish we had a fork lift real quick at home. Just for 1 min.... 1 single minute... ๐Ÿ™‚
4 whopping cylinders on Toyota RV's. Talk about great getting good MPG. Also I have a very light foot on the pedal. I followed some MPG advice on Livingpress.com and I now get 22 MPG! Not bad for a home on wheels.

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
Use BLUE THREADLOCK compound on your A/C screws.

Twice my screws loosened up on my original A/C and I had a water leak while camping.

I'd highly recommend pulling the ceiling panel off and adding blue threadlock as a preventive measure so you don't end up with a leak at the A/C
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
jdc1 wrote:
I took an hour out of my morning to replace my rooftop AC unit on my 5th wheel. Folks....do not pay someone to do this. It is VERY simple to do, even for the faint of heart. The only hard part is deciding where to put the ladder, to use as a "long ramp" to pull the new unit up on the roof.


I have a loft in my shop and used a ramp to slide the A/C from the loft area to my roof. It worked really good.

I went from a tall A/C unit to a low profile heat pump.

Here's my video of the project
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

jdc1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Cobra21 wrote:
Thanks for the post. That also tells me that the gasket replacement would be easy!
Brian


The gaskets are glued onto the AC.

kellem
Explorer
Explorer
Had a widow maker destroy our AC 15 yrs ago.

It was a pretty straightforward job and remember the Torque specs being minimal on the gasket.

I'd likely do it again but prefer it not be another branch.