Diesel vs gas......................

[blt2ski]

OK folks, there have been a few to many diesel vs gas threads that have shall we say gone to "Hell and a hand basket"! So if all of you would put in you BEST, no flaming reasons for going gas vs diesel, pro and con, I will either leave your thread, or copy and paste pertinant info to the 4 posts of pro and con of diesel or gas. This can include the GM 8.1 vs Dmax or Ford V-8/10 vs PSD etc too.

Be real and honest in you answers, not hear say, flaming etc PLEASE!

If posts are good ones, I will leave, if inflamatory or trolling in nature, they will be deleted! I will get this stick'd to the top for future parusing for those that need this type of info.

Added 6-23-04

We are getting closer to answers I am looking for etc.

Stuff like Ken's - T-Bone posts are good. There are a few others of you that have not posted, some with a 9 point question and answer type to figure out how you went with one or the other. If you are one of those, PLEASE repost in this thread. I may have to look up whom has done this and PM you, but if you think this is you, you now know what to do.

Also, for those of you with $ per gallon for either fuel right now, I would prefer to see a post with ...."in my area, diesel is typically .10 less than unleaded" then explain your numbers. As currently in the Seattle area, diesel and unleaded are any where from 2.05 -2.30 per gallon, with mid test .10 more and premium about .20 more, with equal high low splits. Two weeks ago those prices were upwards of .30 -.40 per gallon more. people were posting $ per gallon that were for me. "I wish" If someone is reading your post a year from now, they may want to know where your paying 1.65, when the price of fuel is over $3 per gallon. Let's keep prices out of it if possible.

Bert and tin tipi, got into a good discusion on the pros and cons of RPM's, drive train etc. I would prefer to NOT see the quote of the other in responding threads, maybe just write a quick wording of re tranny gearing, instead of the whole 40 words or so in that paragragh, so the repsonse is shorter if possible quicker and easier to read etc.

I have deleted some 15+/- posts, that were off topic etc. Please note, I am trying to keep this at the top, as the ONLY gas/diesel thread in this area. So if one is trying to decide, we do not have to go thru this BS any more. As such, I will be deleting ANY future posts close to resembling this type of topic. I may have to change "this" title to a better one, if one has a better sounding title, to be more positive, better claification, let me know here, or in a PM/e-mail, what ever you feel most comfortible with.

Again thank you for all of you that are keeping responses positive, etc.

Also we could use a few more positive reasons to go gas, as many can see I have both gas and diesel, both have a place! Both have positive reasons to buy that fuel, lets keep the threads etc to that purpose only!

Marty

[tomkwusa]

"Good Lord, what do they replace on the diesels each year? Injectors and turbo(s)"

Well Burt old boy maybe you have to do that to yours every year but all the guys and gals that I know and run with that have diesels havn't replaced any Injectors or turbos yet and hey we have been on the road for at least 4 years. Just can't name a one of them that has had to do that and there must be a least 30 of em running with all different models. Well I guess maybe they just might take a little bit better care of theirs than some do. What do you think. Or do you think it might be that they are actually towing and using the diesel for what is was designed to do. TOW.

Tom

[tomkwusa]

"Why on earth would anyone replace all those parts on their gasser each year unless they want to subsidise their mechanic's two month holiday to the Mayan Riviera every winter?"

Well Burt old boy all I can say is when the gasser I have rolls over 300,000 Miles then it's worth it. Please let me know where and how I can get two months holiday at the Mayan Rivera for 379.00.

"When was the last time you saw a gasser with a rotor and distributer? Unless, of course, the author is trying to keep up with the late model diesels in his model T. Then it would make sense.


Part number DCC-4876255AB Mopar Performance Distributor cap and rotarty set for 5.2 L 318 2002 Dodge 1500B Van Mopar small block magnum.

You might want to check out what is under the hood of some of these gassers before make condescending remarks and bold statements concerning inaccuracy in posts. You might even consider reading or looking over an owners manual. You never know hoss.

Good thing the author of this article isn't biased!


Not biased there Burt old boy, just take real good care of my tow. You see I use mine to tow with, not to run around in town. Try pulling a few 11,000 to 13,000 ft mountain passes towing and then you might get an Idea of what the difference is between diesle and gas. Get some experince on that, then reread my original post and let me know..Okay..


Tom

[DavidPhillips]

Which one you getting JD?

[Riddler64]

Funny to go back and read posts from 2 years ago and see how things have changed.

Gas is 30-40 cents per gallon cheaper than diesel now so I would say that MPG is a push.

Don't know about the rest of the country, but 6.0 PSD trucks are stacked up at the dealer. They will be trying to give them away in 6-8 months when Ford releases 2008 with 6.6L.

All of that said, I am close to buying a diesel (currently have gasser) because I know the towing experience is much more enjoyable.

[BertP]

"I have a complete tune up on the gasser every year plugs, wires, rotary and rotary cap with factory parts and that gets expensive ,not so for the diesel."

Good Lord, what do they replace on the diesels each year? Injectors and turbo(s)? Why on earth would anyone replace all those parts on their gasser each year unless they want to subsidise their mechanic's two month holiday to the Mayan Riviera every winter?

On Edit: Oh, and I forgot to ask: When was the last time you saw a gasser with a rotor and distributer? Unless, of course, the author is trying to keep up with the late model diesels in his model T. Then it would make sense.

"Not to mention the trans and rear end stuff that has to be done more frequently than diesles"

Good thing the author of this article isn't biased!

I get a kick out of articles like this one. They are so one sided and inaccurate that they are too funny to be true.

Bert

[DavidPhillips]

We run 4wd machines that have two transmissions.(front and back) The transmissions are driven by hydraulic motors. The diesel powering the pump is a C15 cat.

Awesome engine.

[tomkwusa]

DavidPhillips wrote:
Diesels better.


Naa Na Na Naa Naa

JCB DIESELMAX Sets Speed Record for a Diesel-Powered Car
The JCB DIESELMAX gets its power from two 5.0-liter four-cylinder twin-turbocharged JCB444 diesel engines usually found in back-loaders, or earth-shovels.

Article at MSN

http://autos.msn.com/advice/article.aspx?contentid=4024418

Wish I had just one of those 5.O liter 4 cylinder engines and they came off of a back loader. Now that sounds hard to believe. One for the front wheel drive and one for the back. I would put my money on a diesle any day. No comparison for the work load. I have caravaned in my gasser with diesels towing travel trailers and they (diesel) will just keep going with no lag at all. Set the cruise and roll. My gasser always drags back when faced with any size incline. I have a 32.5 gallon tank and most of the rigs I have caravaned with have the same or less. At fuel stops I was always the one that took the most fuel. Everyone of the diesel guys on a long haul always got much better mpg than me. My GCVW (tow and rig) is 9,882 lbs - Max is 11,125 (tow is a Dodge 1500B Van 318 5.2 L with a 3.55 gear - rig is 23ft Mallard) and I run with deisels that are towing fifth wheels that weigh 14,000 and more. They have a much smoother run and use less fuel and the time difference between oil and filter changes makes up for the cost. I have a complete tune up on the gasser every year plugs, wires, rotary and rotary cap with factory parts and that gets expensive ,not so for the diesel. Not to mention the trans and rear end stuff that has to be done more frequently than diesles and on and on and on.

Tom

[DavidPhillips]

http://search.ebscohost.com/


user: greatfalls

pwd: publiclibrary

[DavidPhillips]

There is an older safety recall on the intermediate shaft bolt, could fracture and cause loss of steering.


05V018000, 05010

[DavidPhillips]

Blower motor harness Service Bulletin 04-01-38-008
repair or replace

HVAC control module Service Bulletin 04-01-39-009B

Replace module


High speed only ...
Replace Resistor module, blower motor, and harness 05-01-38-012

[DavidPhillips]

Diesels better.


Naa Na Na Naa Naa

[ooohhhno]

Getting 20 mpg in my F250 on the road. Towing 8,000lbs, I am getting 12 mpg and still have plenty of power. Beats the old F150 with small V-8 that got 18 mpg on the road and 10 mpg pulling a 3,000lb trailer and no power to spare. Diesel is about 25 cents more per gallon in my area (So. Cal) than unleaded.

[DavidPhillips]

try this one for the intermediate shaft greese problem.

TSB 00-02-35-003D


If your out of warranty you can fix it yourself.

http://gm-trucks.com/home/content/view/232/25/

[DavidPhillips]

Here's the deal.

The harness to the blower motor control module has melted on almost every 05 we have.

They deny a problem, but sell us the upgraded one that is noticably bigger wire.

If you drive long enough or in off road conditions you will start to feel a thumping in the steering wheel. Later on it will get to where you hear a noise when turning.

There is a new shaft and also a greese kit. They may try to put on a greese kit that is temporary. It will go dry again.

If it's under warranty and has the problem they will fix it. Otherwise it's not covered. They will all do it, it's a matter of time.

Some dealers will replace it if you just claim to feal a thumping in the steering wheel while turning on a bumpy road, because that's the beginning of the problem. Try grabbing hold of the shaft and see if it moves. The greese comes out of the spline and creates slack. Demand a new shaft.


There is an upgraded pump. They deny a problem here as well. What you need to watch is the plastic lines. It's close to the battery and will actually rub a hole in the battery on some trucks. Others rub up by the windshield area. Some may get a hole rubbed in the tank.

The pump problem is that it may just quit and may look melted. Could start leaking.

Not really narrowed it down to one problem on the washer there a several problems.

The 05 I'm driving now the line rubbed a hole in the battery and battery acid may have damaged the pump. It started leaking.

A lot of problems with the system.



Here's another interesting unadvertised feature..

Rear disc brakes will need to be completely replaced rotors and pads after only a few thousand miles if you ride on sandy roads a lot. Sand gets in there from the front wheels and eats up the rotor. Saw one completely trashed after only 10,000 miles total on the truck. They replaced everything but they also put a mud flap in front of the rear tire, which looks funny. It keeps some of the sand out. A lot of the new trucks now seem to have gone back to drum brakes again.

I would try to avoid these if you travel sandy roads or put something to deflect some of the sand.

[BertP]

Hmmm... It's funny you mention that. I just had my truck towed to the dealer because the blower motor wouldn't shut off and it killed the batteries. They told me that it was a blown resister. Would you happen to have a tsb number for the harness and steering shaft? Might as well demand a new washer pump as well 🙂

Bert