Do I need stabilizer or WD?

[petnzoo]

Firstly...I am new to all of this. My first camper. I'm a little older, and retired, and hoping I can do this. My camper is in the middle of being worked on. I've never towed before. So..I see from previous posts, weight capacities and such are required. I'll have to get those later. My question is..do I need a stabilizer bar, or weight distribution? And in laymen terms, how do they work? What I can tell you.. My TT is a 1987 Shasta 155MB. (15 ft). Specs say 2280 pounds.
My tow vehicle is a 2008 Honda Ridgeline with after-market reese hitch.. I've heard several different things. I want not to get sway, if avoidable. Can anyone help me understand what I may or may not need? Thanks in advance..

[RJCorazza]

I really hate to say this but it sounds like the 2280 lbs trailer weight is dry delivered weight, which usually means no battery, LPG, water, etc.
Most states require brakes on GVWR (trailer) of 3000lbs leaving you with 720 lbs. I tow a landscape trailer a lot with anywhere from 1700 lbs to 7000 lbs and even when towing light I would want trailer brakes. I am sure there are plenty of folks safely towing rigs at or near the 3000lb mark without brakes, but I would make certain of my weights and have every advantage available (WD / sway if possible).

[Timtation]

Our first camper was a 1987 single axle 15' Layton. It came with electric brakes and the hitch had both weight distribution (wd) and sway control. Even with the tongue weight properly loaded the wd seemed extraneous until I traveled without it one time and discovered an unexpected value. The tow vehicle had a fairly short wheel base which probably approximated the distance of the drive axle to the trailer axle. At some point the expansion joints set up an harmonic that was quite unpleasant and unrolled both the paper towels and toilet paper in the trailer. Merely having a slight amount of tension on the arms would have prevented the oscillations and improved the travel.
Determining if yours has electric brakes is simple enough,the wheels attach to a plate or a drum, nothing behind the mount,no brake, drum is the mount there are brakes.
Good luck

[Francesca_Knowl]

petnzoo wrote:
I've not seen anything to indicate that I have any brakes at all on the TT. I called an RV place, and they seemed relatively sure that it didn't, given the age and size. (1987 Shasta Revere 155MB, 15 ft.)They also said that given the weight and TV, that I probably wouldn't need them. What's a girl to do? It is an expensive prospect too. Can I look somewhere to see? I'm beginning to think I should have never bought this! Uggg..

You might just be lucky enough to lack the correct pigtail. I know yours is a four-flat, but lots of folks have cut off the originals and put those on, especially if towing a small trailer with a big ol' truck. When I bought my present teeny tiny trailer, the P.O. didn't even KNOW that the trailer had brakes for that reason. That four-flat sounds like a refit anyway, since it doesn't provide any charging to the trailer battery either. And certainly that was a standard thing on trailers when yours was built.

Also:
No matter how much other things have changed, brakes have been wired with BLUE WIRE since w-a-a-ay back when. First place I'd look for that wire would be where the pigtail joins the trailer wiring. Is there a blue wire leading away from there? Then look under the trailer- should be a blue wire at each wheel hub, connected or not.

[westend]

Look for wires leading back to the backer plates of the axle assemblies. If you don't see any wiring going towards the wheels from underneath, you don't have brakes.

One question:Is that guy from the RV place going to be there when you are trying to extricate your trailer from the guardrail and the LEO is writing the ticket for not having any brakes on the trailer?

[petnzoo]

I've not seen anything to indicate that I have any brakes at all on the TT. I called an RV place, and they seemed relatively sure that it didn't, given the age and size. (1987 Shasta Revere 155MB, 15 ft.)They also said that given the weight and TV, that I probably wouldn't need them. What's a girl to do? It is an expensive prospect too. Can I look somewhere to see? I'm beginning to think I should have never bought this! Uggg..

[Francesca_Knowl]

I agree with others that say that you need brakes on this trailer. Are you SURE there are none there now, someone perhaps just having changed the pigtail? When I bought mine the fellow who owned it said he didn't think there were brakes on it, he having just used a four-flat lights connection. I knew he was wrong as soon as I spotted the original fully wired Bargman 7-blade connector!

petnzoo wrote:

I am starting to lean toward an LT tire. Can anyone give me some reasons why or why not?

I can- nobody makes a 14" LT tire. You'd have to change your wheels too in order to put 15" LT's on, and THAT would depend on whether or not there's room in the wheel wells. Get yourself some good quality ST's and you'll be fine- but definitely get rid of the P-tires. Per brand: I'm a lifelong Les Schwab customer so can only speak from experience per that one brand. My current trailer sized much like yours has been running on Les Schwab ST's ever since I bought it in 2005. I've worn out two sets without any blowouts or other problems. I did manage to destroy one of the newest set by deliberately underinflating it, but that being a self-inflicted injury I don't fault the tire for it.

[westend]

petnzoo wrote:
Thanks for responding. No, I haven't made my first trip yet. I am still working on the on the camper. But I am trying to be safe and look ahead, while trying to stay within my measly fixed budget. Am I doing something wrong by posting and asking questions before my first adventure?
I wouldn't have thought that since this is a 1987 camper, and never had brakes, that I would need them. The wiring connector on my TT is only a 4 pin one, so don't think it is even set up for one. Like I said, this is my first time. I'm still researching though, which is why all the questions. I appreciate all the help.

Absolutely nothing wrong with any questions, anytime. I was just poking some fun about the tire questions, it's a real hot topic on this Forum and you may see the tire guys fill up your thread with a lot of discussion.

Understood about your trailer not having brakes but if it was me and I was pulling with a lighter truck, I'd have them. I have a '71 Starcraft and it has brakes, FWIW.

The problem with having no braking on the trailer and a lighter truck is that, in an emergency stopping situation or braking while turning, the trailer will keep it's momentum going in the forward direction. This can lead to jackknifing the trailer or losing control of steering with your truck. The trailer will push the rear of the truck so that the truck is no longer going where you want it to go. Recovery may be possible but it may also lead to rapid fishtailing between truck and trailer. If you've never experienced the situation, it's something you don't want to happen.

Since you don't have trailer braking, you don't have an emergency break-away system, either. IMO, that's a must-have, too.

The other issue about not having trailer brakes is the law. You should check with your State MV Dept. but this site lists NC as any house trailer over 1000 lbs, to be required. Other States are fairly similar.

[petnzoo]

Thanks for responding. No, I haven't made my first trip yet. I am still working on the on the camper. But I am trying to be safe and look ahead, while trying to stay within my measly fixed budget. Am I doing something wrong by posting and asking questions before my first adventure?
I wouldn't have thought that since this is a 1987 camper, and never had brakes, that I would need them. The wiring connector on my TT is only a 4 pin one, so don't think it is even set up for one. Like I said, this is my first time. I'm still researching though, which is why all the questions. I appreciate all the help.

[westend]

I would be looking for brakes for the trailer along with the tires. In many States you'll be over the weight limit for having trailer brakes and you want them, anyway. If your Ridgeline doesn't have a brake controller, you'll also need that.
If you were just hauling a utility trailer in the 3k neighborhood, brakes wouldn't be absolutely necessary but towing a big sail up in the air is different.

I would use a WDH and leave it just to recover any body tilt or axle unloading of the front. Honda doesn't recommend one but having enough weight on the front steer tires trumps any presumed damage to the truck. Get one with integrated sway control. Equalizer makes a good one.

Haven't even hit the road or finished your first thread and you want to discuss tires, and on this Forum. :B Sorry, it's a big deal on RVnet:W. IMO, if you can find an LT tire that fits and your rims will be OK with the pressures, get them. There are also good ST tires. I was limited to ST tires and bought Carlisle Radial Trail RH in a load rating bigger than what I had. They are working well for me but haven't seen a lot of miles.

Good luck with the rig and RV'ing.

[petnzoo]

Thanks folks. No, there is no electric brake system on this travel trailer. I would also need to get a different hitch to use a sway bar, as mine is a 3 ball hitch, with nowhere to mount the bar. Now I have a different question, if anyone can help.
TIRES..mine came with P205/75/14 load range "E". They are from 2007. I want new ones, but am conflicted with the research I've done on an LT tire vs a ST. I hear ST's don't last for crap, and have heard of many blow outs. I've also heard because of a stiffer side wall, I should only use ST.
I read too that LT on my small TT should be suitable. The load range may vary. With a single axle I really don't know if I want to risk a blow out. Also, as a woman, I can change an auto tire..does a TT change the same way? What kind of jack do I use?
I am starting to lean toward an LT tire. Can anyone give me some reasons why or why not? And what LT tire should I get that would be comparable, as I can't find the exact same size and load rating. I'm about to go nuts.

[avoidcrowds]

Respectfully, I will disagree with those who say you don't need a WDH with a 3500 lb trailer. I am not saying, though, that Ridgelines can use a WDH. In other threads, there are many Ridgeline owners who say they use them.

The reason I recommend a WDH is that they balance the entire "rig". When you put 350# - 525# on the ball on most SUVs or half-ton pickups, the tail drops significantly. This un-weights the front axle, reducing braking and steering capability of the front tires. Not a big deal on dry pavement, but a big difference in rain. Plus, with the dropped tail, your headlights will aim into oncoming drivers' eyes at night. Not only is that discourteous, but it is also dangerous.

I tow a 3500 lb trailer with a Grand Cherokee with the tow package, and it makes a world of difference having a WDH. I did not have one initially, and won't tow without, now.

My opinion. Do with it what you wish.

[Francesca_Knowl]

petnzoo wrote:
OK, thanks all for your input. Here are the specs: GVWR= 6050, GAWR-= 3105 ON FRONT, 3245 ON REAR, GCWR=10088. MAX TRAILER WEIGHT AT 5000=600 LB TONGUE LOAD. They to not reccomend as WD hitch/
I'm thinking may get one sway bar for extra safety, and take it from there.

Specs look great- you have tons of leftover capacity, so no need for w/d.

Last but not least per sway control:

Since most trailers of that era over 2,000 pounds came with electric brakes I'm assuming that your Shasta has them and that you'll be using them along with the appropriate in-cab brake controller. As noted earlier, a properly loaded/balanced trailer shouldn't sway except perhaps rarely due to side winds. Such unexpected events can be very quickly brought under control by manual activation of the trailer brakes.

It's most important when using this method to avoid applying the tow vehicle brakes at the same time, instead only easing off the accelerator very gently. The drag applied by the trailer braking against the forward motion of the tow vehicle straightens the whole shebang out just like magic.

Have fun!

[boosTT]

With a trailer that small, you really don't need a WD hitch.

Sway control depends on if you can live with a little bit of sway. You could add a friction sway control pretty easy, but they don't make THAT big of a difference.

[RCMAN46]

As for sway if the trailer has any sway without sway control under normal towing do not tow.

Fix the sway problem. Most common cause is low tongue weight.

Sway can also be caused by nose high trailer, tow vehicle wheel alignment, trailer axle has tow out (should has about 1/8 to 1/4 inch tow in. Trailer axle not square with center line of trailer. Trailer axle camber and a bad trailer tire (broken steel belt etc)
Mis adjusted brakes on trailer.

After sway has been corrected then I would recommend a friction sway bar if you are not going to use weight distribution. This gives added control in emergency pedal to the metal braking and large trucks that pass close at 40 mph faster than you are going.