Does any one have a front locking differental on a Dodge??

[KKELLER14K]

Ok this is what I have and this is what I want to know. I have an 02 Dodge Dually. I had a really bad experience in the winter some time back. I tried to pull out of a slope in 4 wheel and the front was a complete loser as it would not engage the front when I needed it to pull me out...I want a locker front end...who has done it and show me how..


EDIT HERE: What I meant to say is only one tire will get traction

[KKELLER14K]

Thank you Chris...That is something I almost forgot to mention. The front driveline is always engaged to the front axle shafts...So this is really making sense to me now after I found that program from Powernation. I'm defiantly a candidate for a selectable locker. I thank you all for the help...it's much appreciated.

[Me_Again]

boogie_4wheel wrote:
Dodge has a vacuum operated from axle on that era trucks. Metal and rubber tubing is run along the inside of the passenger frame rail, and the actuator diaphragm for the CAD (Central Axle Disconnect) is on the backside of the front differential. Vacuum is controlled by the transfer case position, and there is a rubber plug on the (going off memory here, driver's side, upper part of the transfer case) that needs to be connected, and it can be disconnected and rotated and installed incorrectly.

Verify that the front axle is engaging. Jack up one side of the front axle just enough to get a front tire off the ground. Place truck in 4wd and start engine (to generate vacuum), and try to spin the front tire by hand. If you can spin it, then the CAD is not working, or there is an issue with the transfer case (try to spin the front driveshaft as well).

I want to say that there was 2 options for a front locker. ARB makes a selectable for the AAM 9.25, and I want to say somebody had an electric selectable as well. This was a few years back, so availability may have changed now.

There is also the Posi-Lock, a cable actuator that replaces the vacuum unit on the front axle. This is used to eliminate the vacuum system and is replaced with a push/pull knob that would be located under the dash, on the floor, ect. I was going to buy one of these for my '97 GMC to replace the thermal actuator when it died, but it never died...

In 02 Dodge dropped the cad for an always engaged front end. Only the transfer case disengages. So a remotely controlled locker would be best.

Chris

[KKELLER14K]

Ok I think I found something really good to watch.....

[garyp4951]

Randys ring and pinion has what you want, and they are great to deal with.
If you don't want to mess with air lines, get the Auburn limited slip, and if the vacuum disconnect ever goes out, get the 4x4 posiloc manual axle connect. There is not a lot available for that Dana 60 disconnect axle.

[lawrosa]

KKELLER14K wrote:
You know how a rear end works when you stomp on the gas and only the drive tire will spin?? . I have the limited slip rear end which work just fine... it's just that front end that needs that extra something when you really need it.

If you have the limited slip rear I would be suprised that its still working... They use clutches and they fail to work properly...

Instead of a Limited slip rear go with a locker in the rear first... Thats an easy mod and should be your first mod..

Most front axles I know are sealed. There is no cover plate to rebuild. You need to replace the whole front axle..

IMO leave the front and just make the rear a locker.

[Huntindog]

Ductape wrote:
Install the front e-locker from a power wagon. IIRC the 2500 / 3500 of that generation had the same front axle internals. I've had both kinds and IMO ARB is ok, but overrated. More complex due to the compressor and air plumbing.

Eaton is also offering the e-lockers aftermarket now.

A cool feature of the ARB is that you can use the on board air supply to air up tires... This can be really handy if you get stuck and decide to air down the tires for increased traction getting out of the stuck.

[Ductape]

Install the front e-locker from a power wagon. IIRC the 2500 / 3500 of that generation had the same front axle internals. I've had both kinds and IMO ARB is ok, but overrated. More complex due to the compressor and air plumbing.

Eaton is also offering the e-lockers aftermarket now.

[MitchF150]

"Sometimes" if you apply your brakes while the single wheel is spinning, it will "fool" the other axle into getting some power.. This is with totally OPEN diffs too..

Like I said, it sometimes works and sometimes it won't.. Just depends on your current situation..

But, if the front end won't grab, what is the rear end doing??

That's where this technique works the best, so not sure why your rear end wouldn't be helping push you forward?

Unless it was totally stuck too and both of those axles are already spinning, then I'd say you are just plain stuck...

If you are set on a front locker, the ones already mentioned is the only way to go and there you go..

Good luck!

Mitch

[KKELLER14K]

Awesome info...I didn't quite explain my situation correctly...I have the floor shift lever to answer that question. My front engages into 4x4 just fine but what happened is only one tire was getting traction...the one on the uphill side. I really needed both getting equal traction. You know how a rear end works when you stomp on the gas and only the drive tire will spin?? Same thing here. Its always been a mod I have wanted to do so I'm trying to collect the info as to who has done one and what would work best. Granted a Dually is not a great machine in the snow but we camp year round up in the mountains on the logging roads. I have the limited slip rear end which work just fine... it's just that front end that needs that extra something when you really need it. So the selective locker is what I'm thinking so that you can still drive normally in 4x4 down the road but when you need both tires locked for maximum traction is what I'm trying to do.

[time2roll]

I highly recommend an Eaton Truetrac for the front. You will not know it is there unless you need it and then it just flat out works. No switches or wires to install or fail. I have these front and rear.

[Huntindog]

I have driven a truck with front and rear ARBs.
It is incredible.
I cannot imagine how it could get stuck, in any normal situation, as well as most unusual ones..

That performance of course has a price tag. Only you can decide if it is worth it...
e
As for driving it on the street... Just don't engage it. Easy peasey.

[Fordlover]

I had a locker in the the front end of my mud toy, and it made it incredible off road, but on roadways when I wanted 4x4 on, I'd just leave one front hub unlocked so it would still turn.

With modern 4x4 systems that don't have selectable hubs, I'd only consider an air locker in the front end, but be certain you don't ever use it on the road or any high speeds, as it can significantly affect your ability to turn.

[Searching_Ut]

blt2ski wrote:
If you want a locker of some sort in the front, the ONLY option IMHO is to install an ARB locker or the electric Eaton locker. I would not want a locker up front for most conditions I've driven in. Some off road conditions yes. I would suspect something else is not working in the system.
If you have a GM, their is an electric solenoid that has a tendency to fail every 100K miles or so. Assuming the fronts are not turning at all! Dodge may have something equivalent up front.

marty

As mentioned above, a locker you can engage selectively is the only way to go in my opinion, and I've installed them in over half a dozen of my off road vehicles over the years. They really change the handling characteristics of the vehicle. If you're not comfortable with the truck being basically in a drift during slick conditions, especially with crowned roads, during turns etc. you're going to hate the locker up front, and it may even result in your ending up somewhere you didn't expect to be, like the ditch. I tow in the snow and ice on a regular basis, and while I always ensure I have a locker or limited slip in the rear, I haven't ever considered a locker up front in one of my tow vehicles. If road conditions are that bad I either resort to chains, or wait until things improve. ARBs are expensive to install, and not worth the cost for the little if any use I would have for it with my tow vehicle.

[Dr_Holiday]

I'd check to make sure you dont have manual locking hubs on the front of the truck. I'd bet you do and they were not locked it.

My 2012 Ram 2500 will lock up the front dif ONLY in 4L and when it locks it a huge pain is in the butt as it makes turning the truck a challenge.

[boogie_4wheel]

Dodge has a vacuum operated from axle on that era trucks. Metal and rubber tubing is run along the inside of the passenger frame rail, and the actuator diaphragm for the CAD (Central Axle Disconnect) is on the backside of the front differential. Vacuum is controlled by the transfer case position, and there is a rubber plug on the (going off memory here, driver's side, upper part of the transfer case) that needs to be connected, and it can be disconnected and rotated and installed incorrectly.

Verify that the front axle is engaging. Jack up one side of the front axle just enough to get a front tire off the ground. Place truck in 4wd and start engine (to generate vacuum), and try to spin the front tire by hand. If you can spin it, then the CAD is not working, or there is an issue with the transfer case (try to spin the front driveshaft as well).

I want to say that there was 2 options for a front locker. ARB makes a selectable for the AAM 9.25, and I want to say somebody had an electric selectable as well. This was a few years back, so availability may have changed now.

There is also the Posi-Lock, a cable actuator that replaces the vacuum unit on the front axle. This is used to eliminate the vacuum system and is replaced with a push/pull knob that would be located under the dash, on the floor, ect. I was going to buy one of these for my '97 GMC to replace the thermal actuator when it died, but it never died...