โFeb-01-2016 02:16 PM
โFeb-04-2016 06:35 PM
โFeb-04-2016 06:21 PM
โFeb-02-2016 04:05 PM
โFeb-02-2016 07:14 AM
dave17352 wrote:
I personally have always opened the relief valve just to make sure all the air is out. Probably not necessary though.
โFeb-01-2016 05:22 PM
Old-Biscuit wrote:Mine had 2 switches, outside and inside. I always wondered why & i think the outside switch is when u want to use electric (while also switching on the inside switch), & the inside as propane.
Opening the relief valve when filling CAN (not always) get rid of the air pocket that is engineered into the design of WH Tank. Air pocket allows for pressure increases due to swelling of water when heated. Loss of air pocket----weeping relief valve.
To not lose air pocket......turn on water supply and bleed air via hot/cold faucet (Cold inlet valve open/hot outlet open---if you have one/bypass closed)
Also not ALL WHs have 2 switches for electric element
Suburban has an ON/OFF switch in outside compartment----lower left corner. May have another on/off switch inside rv if mfg. adds one.
Atwood if 2003 or prior years will have an ON/OFF switch on backside of WH Tank on cover over electric element. May have another inside rv if mfg. adds one.
2004 and newer ones will only have an ON/OFF switch on panel on wall.
โFeb-01-2016 05:10 PM
โFeb-01-2016 04:16 PM
dave17352 wrote:
I personally have always opened the relief valve just to make sure all the air is out. Probably not necessary though.
โFeb-01-2016 04:05 PM
thehippie wrote:DutchmenSport wrote:Thanks man.
You need to bleed the air out of all the lines, all faucets hot and cold. Once the lines quit spitting and spatting air, and you have a steady stream of water, that that faucet off and go to the next one. The water heater will take longer, to replace 6 gallons of air with 6 gallons of water. If you turn the faucets all off before the tank is filled, the lines and the water tank will reach pressure and simply will not fill any longer.
Now, the electric heating element is on the bottom of the tank. As long as the heating element is covered with water, if you happen to flip the "on" switch, you're good, because the element is covered with water. But if the tank is empty, and the element is not covered, you'll burn it out in a matter of seconds.
Here's another hint. If your water heater has an outside rocker arm switch - on and off - always keep that "off" unless you are actually using the camper. Especially if you drain your water heater after every trip, make double sure that switch is off.
This way, if the switch for electric gets turned on inside the camper, nothing will come on. Because it's double switched and off AT the heater. It's REALLY too easy to hit the water heater button thinking it's a light switch, especially kids, if you are plugged into shore power, but don't have water in the tank. So, always make sure both switches are off unless you know there's water in the tank.
I installed a second switch on my water pump for the same reason. The switch for the water pump is right beside the main panel and the house lights. Several times, when parked at home, and the fresh water tank was empty, that switch would get flipped. The water pump would be running (for who knows how long) with no water in the fresh tank, no pressure ever built up to turn it off. After a few times of that happening, I installed a second switch. It's never been found running again or turned on by the "unknown ghost?"
So, check if the tank is double switched. By the way, it won't hurt anything if the gas comes on and it's empty. It will just get very, very, very hot. But nothing will get burned up if there's no water in the tank.
โFeb-01-2016 03:26 PM
DutchmenSport wrote:Thanks man.
You need to bleed the air out of all the lines, all faucets hot and cold. Once the lines quit spitting and spatting air, and you have a steady stream of water, that that faucet off and go to the next one. The water heater will take longer, to replace 6 gallons of air with 6 gallons of water. If you turn the faucets all off before the tank is filled, the lines and the water tank will reach pressure and simply will not fill any longer.
Now, the electric heating element is on the bottom of the tank. As long as the heating element is covered with water, if you happen to flip the "on" switch, you're good, because the element is covered with water. But if the tank is empty, and the element is not covered, you'll burn it out in a matter of seconds.
Here's another hint. If your water heater has an outside rocker arm switch - on and off - always keep that "off" unless you are actually using the camper. Especially if you drain your water heater after every trip, make double sure that switch is off.
This way, if the switch for electric gets turned on inside the camper, nothing will come on. Because it's double switched and off AT the heater. It's REALLY too easy to hit the water heater button thinking it's a light switch, especially kids, if you are plugged into shore power, but don't have water in the tank. So, always make sure both switches are off unless you know there's water in the tank.
I installed a second switch on my water pump for the same reason. The switch for the water pump is right beside the main panel and the house lights. Several times, when parked at home, and the fresh water tank was empty, that switch would get flipped. The water pump would be running (for who knows how long) with no water in the fresh tank, no pressure ever built up to turn it off. After a few times of that happening, I installed a second switch. It's never been found running again or turned on by the "unknown ghost?"
So, check if the tank is double switched. By the way, it won't hurt anything if the gas comes on and it's empty. It will just get very, very, very hot. But nothing will get burned up if there's no water in the tank.
โFeb-01-2016 03:03 PM
โFeb-01-2016 02:44 PM
โFeb-01-2016 02:44 PM
โFeb-01-2016 02:43 PM
โFeb-01-2016 02:29 PM
WyoTraveler wrote:
First time filling? Open a hot water fauset and allow the water to run to bleed any air that may be in the tank.