Drill recommendations

[countrykids]

My Milwaukee 18v has died and I need a replacement to run the manual jacks up and down. Any and all recommendations appreciated.

[Steelhog]

A bit late to the conversation. I'm a big fan of the 18V NiCad DeWalts.

As an FYI I stumbled across several YouTube videos on "reviving" dead NiCads. Having several 14.4V and 18V batteries that would not take a charge I gave it a try and so far I'm 2 for 4 on getting batteries to take a good charge. Maybe I was lucky and Darwin didn't get me as this could be one of those "hey y'all watch this!" sort of techniques.

IF YOU TRY THIS IT IS AT YOUR OWN RISK!

The most "scientific" account said that you needed at least double the voltage to zap the dendritic sulfate crystals that sort out the battery. I used my 36V golf cart for the source. Some folks used a welder which seemed really scary.

[Terryallan]

Kayteg1 wrote:
I have about 5 DeWalt drills/drivers that I bought in last 15 years.
Each time batteries died, instead spending $160 for new batteries, I was spending $190 for set with drill, charger and box.
I still keep those drills as some rated for 14.4V will run from car battery just fine, while having 4 batteries right now, quite often I take 2-3 drills and instead changing the bits/drill bits I change the drills.
Right now have 18V set, but with some slot cut, the 18V battery will go into 14.4V drill.
Other option is to buy $15 drill from Harbor Freight. I had couple of those, where I was mainly using flashlight .
Put 18V HF battery into 14.4V HF drill and on heavier driving the handle on the drill broke off.
Still good motor and battery.

You can buy replacement batteries on line for a lot less. My last 24 Volt battery was only $45.00.

[RickW]

RWDIII wrote:



This one works for me

X2

[RWDIII]

This one works for me

[L2R]

Just understand that more is not necessarily better.

do a little research on what is needed. you can usually find torque specs.
Realize that as the ft/lbs go up, you are stretching the threads of the bolt. Over tightening all things may give you a sense of security that can back fire if you are stripping the threads.

trailer tire bolts may be less than 100 lbs. bolting into aluminum is much less.

If you don't have a torque wrench borrow one and see what you need for this application, then buy on what your needs require not on buying the biggest for the sake of having it.

unless you are under the chassis of your rig, you don't need 200 ft/lbs of torque.

[kayco53]

Love my Makita Drill and Impact driver.Had the Ridgid they replaced the batteries once and after that said they were not regestered properly even so they supplied them???Got the run around and chucked it and went back to the Makita.Pro quality.It does make a difference.Had the Ryobi decent for the money was happy with it for quite a few years would get another if the Makita is to expensive.Never really liked the Ridgid.

[Ava]

With any of the lifetime warranty batteries you need to register and keep the receipts to get new ones. I had to change my computer and lost the email registering the Rigid batteries. I sent my new email to Rigid and asked about replacing them and they never got back to me. Last time I buy from Rigid.

[Kayteg1]

I have about 5 DeWalt drills/drivers that I bought in last 15 years.
Each time batteries died, instead spending $160 for new batteries, I was spending $190 for set with drill, charger and box.
I still keep those drills as some rated for 14.4V will run from car battery just fine, while having 4 batteries right now, quite often I take 2-3 drills and instead changing the bits/drill bits I change the drills.
Right now have 18V set, but with some slot cut, the 18V battery will go into 14.4V drill.
Other option is to buy $15 drill from Harbor Freight. I had couple of those, where I was mainly using flashlight .
Put 18V HF battery into 14.4V HF drill and on heavier driving the handle on the drill broke off.
Still good motor and battery.

[pconroy328]

Another Milwaukee?


"In" brands go in and out. I recall when Porter Cable was a decent brand. I've owned quite a few, from Skil to Ryobi to Milwaukee.

My 14.4V Milwaukee refuses to die. I feed it eBay batteries that last a couple of years. If I didn't hate my Bosch dishwasher so much, I'd be thinking about them too.

DeWalt or Milwaukee would be my current pick if I wanted a nice one.

[Terryallan]

I use a 24 volt DeWalt hammer drill. (don't use the hammer setting). It is 15 years old, and in on it's 3rd battery. 450 inch pounds of torque. It was bought to raise the popup roof, which it did well. Now it is used on the TT stabs, and of course around the house.

BTW. Batteries are easily found on line. Google is your friend.

[L2R]

+1 on the 12v impact driver.
it is small, light, about 90 ft/lbs of torque.
It outperformed my old craftsman 18v hands down drilling 4" decking screws thru wood with power to spare.
batteries hold the charge for months

[rwbradley]

The last time this came up there were a lot of "get the zillion volt model, you need more power". I decided to go the opposite direction. I wanted tiny as space is limited in the trailer. I have both the tiny 12v Dewalt drill and impact gun. I love them both. I also have a 18v Milwaukee that is great for drilling holes in concrete and it lasts forever but it is huge, heavy and way more than I need for lowering stabilizers. I have been out for 4 weeks so far this season, at 11 different campgrounds lowering and raising stabilizers and am still on the same charge from the beginning of the season on the 12v Dewalt.

This is the drill version
http://www.lowes.com/pd_49942-70-DCF610S2___?productId=3276907&pl=1&Ntt=dewalt+cordless#img

[805gregg]

Dewalt 18 volt, I already have 8 tools that use them so I stick with that

[wthibeaux]

Stanley 20 volt lithium ion. Batteries hold charge for a long time.