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DRW in snow, off road, etc.

rvshrinker
Explorer III
Explorer III
I'm closing in on a RAM 3500 DRW but have some questions about off road and snow travel.

If I don't have the TC on top, I see these things don't do well in snow. Some people have talked about airing down, about throwing weight in the back, about removing the outside wheels, or some combination of all of the above. What is SOP for improving snow handling when the bed is empty? Snow tires? I don't think I'd do this often as I have an old toyota RAV4 with 4x4 and snow tires which does just great and I plan to keep that vehicle..

With the TC on, I'm sure it will handle better in snow. To go to the ski resort sometimes M&S tires or chains are required. do I need 4 or 6 snow tires for this application?

Finally, off road, with or without the TC in place: I'm not rock-climbing or anything, but want to be secure crossing low streams and deep holes or maybe even some light sand. Is the DRW ok for this? I see some folks air down for sand, that's a pretty easy fix because it would be a rare occasion that I would do that.

thanks
35 REPLIES 35

coolbreeze01
Explorer
Explorer
You'll be able to get into places that will give your rig the twist test. Have fun :C
2008 Ram 3500 With a Really Strong Tractor Motor...........
LB, SRW, 4X4, 6-Speed Auto, 3.73, Prodigy P3, Blue Ox Sway Pro........
2014 Sandsport 26FBSL

thomas201
Explorer
Explorer
What KSSS said and others have said. I will add one thing for duals in the mud (Coal truck, oil field and a little fun).

When you hit pavement, get out and check for rocks between the tires. They can cause damage to your truck, but are a dangerous missile to anyone behind you. It takes less than a minute to check, and seldom do you find anything, but the downside is very high.

Searching_Ut
Explorer
Explorer
rvshrinker wrote:
I'm just being difficult, I know, but the whole point is to take the TRUCK with the CAMPER off-road, and being able to set up anywhere, off grid, and boondock for several days. That is my goal. It doesn't help me to tow a jeep, because I still can't camp. If I'm towing a Jeep I might as well dump the whole truck and camper and just keep going with my RAV4 and a tent!


It's hard to know how you define Off road, but when I did have a setup that was capable of it, I found I quit doing it to any extent because of the effects of the rough ride on the RV. Had to unload/pack fridge, cabinets etc and still ended up with stuff everywhere, and things working loose and falling apart. Dirt roads okay, washboard not too bad if under 10 miles or so, "off road" or 4X4 type roads, not worth the trouble for camping for the most part.
2015 Ram 3500 Laramie CTD, 4X4, AISIN, B&W Companion Puck Mount
2016 Heartland Bighorn 3270RS, 1kw solar with Trimetric and dual SC2030, 600 watt and 2k inverters.

rvshrinker
Explorer III
Explorer III
I'm just being difficult, I know, but the whole point is to take the TRUCK with the CAMPER off-road, and being able to set up anywhere, off grid, and boondock for several days. That is my goal. It doesn't help me to tow a jeep, because I still can't camp. If I'm towing a Jeep I might as well dump the whole truck and camper and just keep going with my RAV4 and a tent!

coolbreeze01
Explorer
Explorer
I'd tow my Jeep on a trailer with my RZR, Dirt Bikes, and Bicycles. Have fun.
2008 Ram 3500 With a Really Strong Tractor Motor...........
LB, SRW, 4X4, 6-Speed Auto, 3.73, Prodigy P3, Blue Ox Sway Pro........
2014 Sandsport 26FBSL

Threebigfords
Explorer
Explorer
I've gone back and forth owning SRW and DRW trucks for decades, I don't let how many tires my truck has limit where I go. If I want to take a 16ft trailer and load it with cordwood and drive up to our family cabin in the Lolo Nat. Forest, in February, then that's what I do.

If I want to load up a small camper and have lunch on the beach in front of the wreck of the New Carissa on the Oregon coast, then that's what I do...well OK that was pretty stupid. Sand was SOFT!

Point is, in most low traction situations a SRW will do better, but with some decent tires and some common sense, you CAN go the same places with a DRW.






15' Ford F450 4x4 Platinum Bronze Fire Metallic
17' Ford Explorer Platinum 3.5 Ecoboost Ruby Red Metallic
78' F250 SC LB 4x4 - highly modified

2003 Weekend Warrior FS2600 toyhauler and the toys to fill it
1997 10' Northland Grizzly 990 Ext Cab

Searching_Ut
Explorer
Explorer
Bionic Man wrote:
Looks like your questions have been answered.

I don't take my DRW out often in the snow. When I have, I put it in 4x4 and haven't had issue.

Question from me. For those that have mentioned getting a rock stuck between the tires, how do you get it out? Do you have to remove the outer tire?


Big problem with rock between tires is when it cuts the sidewall. Got one out once when tire blew due to cut sidewall. It was easy to see something had been rubbing between wheels in aftermath. Another time got a chunk of Lava Rock stuck in between the wheels up in Idaho and tore up one of the sidewalls bad enough I ended up changing the tire. tire never failed though.
2015 Ram 3500 Laramie CTD, 4X4, AISIN, B&W Companion Puck Mount
2016 Heartland Bighorn 3270RS, 1kw solar with Trimetric and dual SC2030, 600 watt and 2k inverters.

ksss
Explorer
Explorer
I have both 3500 DRW and SRW. I live in Idaho about 90 miles from Yellowstone to give you a geographical context to my experience. I have traveled many miles in the snow with DRW including working on the top of the Big Sky ski resort during the Winter. I would have to chain up to get heavy equipment to the top of the hill. I chained the back outside tires and fronts. I have always run an aggressive tire on the these trucks (Cooper SST, Kelly TSR and Kelly MSR). If you chain up they are not bad pushing deep snow but not as good as SRW. When the DRW really sucks is when the roads are rutted and iced over, they throw you around as the duals try to find a home in the ruts. The SRW 3500s clearly are superior in the Winter but DRW is workable just not as pleasant. Loaded they are better in the Winter than when they are unloaded.

During the Summer off road with a DRW my issue is the fenders suffer from brush scrapes that SRW are not exposed to. The other issue is the DRW beds are made of composite plastic that when cold are brittle. They shatter when hit. I prefer the SRW for most everything. The DRW's are great for going down the road at max GVW and outside of that I don't find them that agreeable. If you "need" the weight carrying capacity, than go DRW. If you are considering going to DRW for added capacity but it is really not necessary I would go SRW. The new trucks are rock solid in SRW. The tires are better, the suspensions are better than they were 10 years ago.
2020 Chevy 3500 CC 4X4 DRW D/A
2013 Fuzion 342
2011 RZR Desert Tan
2012 Sea Doo GTX 155
2018 Chevy 3500HD CC LB SRW 4X4 D/A
2015 Chevy Camaro ZL1

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Any rear wheel drive vehicle will drive better in snow if the rear is weighted so that more than 50% of the total vehicle weight is on the rear axle.

Ford has eliminated limited slip differentials in their F150 in favor of an electronic locking axle. This is probably what most people want (on demand, locking differential). Obviously you don't want to drive it locked on dry pavement.

_DJ_1
Explorer II
Explorer II
mowermech wrote:
When I had my old Dodge Ram 3500 CTD dually 4X2, I went into farmers fields to get hay, drove it in the winter on snowy roads, even took it down some old skid trails in the woods. Here is what I experienced:
1. It was simply too big for skid trails. Luckily, all I did was break a hubcap on a stump.
2. Real aggressive tread snow tires are a must in the winter. "All Season M&S" tires may be OK, but an aggressive tread is better. I will gladly put up with the noise for safety. I usually run such tires on my trucks all year long.
3. Weight in the bed in the winter is a wonderful thing. It may not be an absolute necessity, but it is amazing what a difference it makes having three 60 pound sandbags on each side, behind the wheel wells. Traction on slippery roads is MUCH better!
Just my opinions, based purely on personal experience.


I got in an argument with this guy several years ago. My brand new 05 CTD dually was worthless in snow with out 4x4. And here's this guy doing all this stuff in a 2WD dually. BULL!! A couple years later I put on new tires, high traction Toyo M 55. I rarely touched the 4x4 lever again!!! He was right!! Aggressive tires make a huge difference on a dually!! 😮
'17 Class C 22' Conquest on Ford E 450 with V 10. 4000 Onan, Quad 6 volt AGMs, 515 watts solar.
'12 Northstar Liberty on a '16 Super Duty 6.2. Twin 6 volt AGMs with 300 watts solar.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
rvshrinker wrote:
Can I take a dually with a TC on a light off road track like Titus Canyon in Death Valley? Or to Badwater? I did Badwater in a Wranger a few years ago and feel like my RAV4 4WD would not have made it.
Titus has a bit of soft sandy gravel as you enter the riverbed at the end. If raining there is a bit of mud as you approach the base of red pass. Some spots are tight but I have seen larger vehicles going the road. Carrying the TC through the slot at the end would make me nervous. Generally 2WD should make this in normal conditions.

Badwater? Is that the lowest point and paved to the tourist stop where you can walk out on the salt? Or do you mean west side road? I have not encountered any difficulty.

If you are going it is probably best to start a DV thread.

rvshrinker
Explorer III
Explorer III
Can I take a dually with a TC on a light off road track like Titus Canyon in Death Valley? Or to the racetrack? I did the racetrack in a Wranger a few years ago and feel like my RAV4 4WD would not have made it. edited. sorry, not badwater.

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Not an issue. Reference my previous post where you asked about the same question.
I wouldn't even buy snow tires. Just sipe the ones you got.
You're not driving the Iditarod, just I90 or whites pass. It's ok.
Improve handling by airing down the tires as much as you can. Ina dually I'd be around 20-25psi rears for empty bed driving in snow. Also the more weight you can add the the rear, the better. But with 4wd if it's slick, the fronts are doing most of the traction pulling with the ballast of the engine and cab over the wheels anyway.

Again, not a concern in the least, imo.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
At our snowmobile races, all of the duallys needed towed out of the parking lot, all the others were fine. The pounds per square inch placed on the slick surface is much reduced, think toboggan.