Dumb question alert. Can I use 15 amp power?

[kt0819]

I was in full RV mode 2 months ago but then we purchased our TT (factory ordered a 2014) and life got really intense and I forgot about all things RV'ing, expecting our TT to arrive early July.

Well it's here and we are scrambling to find a campsite and try it out. Plus, I have forgotten a lot about what I learned a few months ago. 😞

I found a campground that is first come first serve (everything else is booked solid) but they only have 4, 30amp sites and 20, 15 amp sites. It is the only campground within 45 min of where we would like to go that has any remote chance of an opening so even though there isn't water or sewer we will go check things out. It's the Canada day long weekend and sites are impossible to come by (we didn't book earlier as we weren't expecting our TT to be here).

I have a WhiteHawk 31DSLB with 30amp power. Can I use a 15amp hook up? We would be there for 4-5 nights so I need at least the fridge and hopefully the heater to make it through that time. We plan to take a full water tank and be very careful about usage (there are free showers so we wont' need to use the TT shower).

I can't believe I am asking such a dumb question but I need to get back to the campground owner ASAP as to what night we can come out so I can find out the likelihood of getting a site and I can't find the info I need as fast as posting a question.

[beemerphile1]

kodiakcanuck wrote:
...But at a campground, I highly doubt you are getting anywhere near 13 amps, especially a campground still using 15, it's likely old equipment.

I tried running mine at a campground that only had 15 amp, had every single other electrical item off in the trailer and it started up, but it was humming really low, like it was struggling for every ounce of energy. Turned it off and went back to the old classic stand up fan...

If someone has the specs on their A/C unit like you do, and use the right equipment, like you are, they may get away with it. But a newbie going out on their first trip, I don't suggest it.

Your issue was probably voltage, not amperage.

[kodiakcanuck]

RoyB wrote:
I see some folks still say to NOT USE the 13,500BTU airconditioners on a 120VAC 15AMP circuit.

Again I have no problems whatsoever running my COLEMAN MACH III Plus 13,500BTU model 8333D Air conditioner from a 120VAC 15/20AMP receptacle in my garage. I have been doing this for around five years now at this location with no ill effects using my 50-foot 10-gauge (10-3) extension cord and RV30A-15A 18-inch long "dogbone" adapter.
The spec sheets on both my air conditioners says it will draw 13.6AMPS in the LOW position and 14.3AMPS in the high position.

All I can say it works fine for me for whatever that is worth... Maybe you guys are referring to the 15,000 BTU air conditioners or maybe the newer COLEMAN MACHIII PLUS air conditioners draw more current??? My air conditioners are used in my 2004 and 2008 RV trailers.

I can only report findings on what happens to me in my situations...

My Roof mounted RV Coleman MACH III Plus model 8333D air conditioner used in both trailers should not care if it gets its 120VAC at 14.3AMPS to operate from a house panel 15AMP circuit breaker or a RV panel 15AMP circuit breaker. I haven't physically checked the breaker size in the WFCO RV panels. I think they are 15AMP breakers.

It works just fine for me with any of those two 120VAC power sources...

I will continue using my garage standard 120VAC 15A/20A receptacles for my two 30AMP Rv trailers connected to it as I have been doing for the past few years. Each RV trailer is on a separate 20AMP circuit breaker in my house AC power panel but the receptacles used are the 15AMP style receptacles... I just re-checked this again in the garage a few minutes before posting this.


I only have one 20AMP style 120VAc receptacle used in my house wiring that was installed to operate an air compressor unit which is no longer hooked up. My fifth wheel trailer is using this 20AMP style receptacle.


I am sure my success is using the proper sized 10-3 GAUGE HD 50-foot extension cords and RV30A-15A long adapter. I have however used 12-3 GAUGE 50-foot extension cords as well with no ill-effect.

Can only report what I am seeing here... Works for me... Maybe I should report more on the 20AMP aspect of my hookup verses the 15AMPS??? I really should just install a 30AMP connections on the outside wall wired to the same 20AMP circuit and change the house circuit breaker to a 30AMP size and be done with it I guess... It probably wouldn't cost over $50 with everything available from LOWES.

just my thoughts
Roy Ken

In your home where you are getting very close to a true 15 amps, I am sure it would be fine, since you are within your A/C amp specs. I've hooked my TT A/C at home on 15 amp just to try it and it ran fine, but would pop the breaker if anything else was used.

But at a campground, I highly doubt you are getting anywhere near 13 amps, especially a campground still using 15, it's likely old equipment.

I tried running mine at a campground that only had 15 amp, had every single other electrical item off in the trailer and it started up, but it was humming really low, like it was struggling for every ounce of energy. Turned it off and went back to the old classic stand up fan...

If someone has the specs on their A/C unit like you do, and use the right equipment, like you are, they may get away with it. But a newbie going out on their first trip, I don't suggest it...

[kodiakcanuck]

I am in Canada and so many of you were great to caution me about not using a/c. Since it is only 50F here the a/c wasn't even on my radar!

Holy jumpings, 50f, where the heck are you in Canada, the Yukon? :h

I'm in Canada too, and A/C is pretty much standard issue any where south of the 47th parallel. I use it pretty much every trip in July and August...

[PA12DRVR]

I wouldn't use A/C on a 15 amp circuit, but to the OP, as a northern boy stuck in Houston today...I'll say that "nice" weather is all a matter of perspective


"I have to chuckle at some of the responses. I am in Canada and so many of you were great to caution me about not using a/c. Since it is only 50F here the a/c wasn't even on my radar! I now know not to use it but sadly I doubt I will even have a need. I forget how much nicer the weather is south of us"

[RoyB]

I see some folks still say to NOT USE the 13,500BTU airconditioners on a 120VAC 15AMP circuit.

Again I have no problems whatsoever running my COLEMAN MACH III Plus 13,500BTU model 8333D Air conditioner from a 120VAC 15/20AMP receptacle in my garage. I have been doing this for around five years now at this location with no ill effects using my 50-foot 10-gauge (10-3) extension cord and RV30A-15A 18-inch long "dogbone" adapter.
The spec sheets on both my air conditioners says it will draw 13.6AMPS in the LOW position and 14.3AMPS in the high position.

All I can say it works fine for me for whatever that is worth... Maybe you guys are referring to the 15,000 BTU air conditioners or maybe the newer COLEMAN MACHIII PLUS air conditioners draw more current??? My air conditioners are used in my 2004 and 2008 RV trailers.

I can only report findings on what happens to me in my situations...

My Roof mounted RV Coleman MACH III Plus model 8333D air conditioner used in both trailers should not care if it gets its 120VAC at 14.3AMPS to operate from a house panel 15AMP circuit breaker or a RV panel 15AMP circuit breaker. I haven't physically checked the breaker size in the WFCO RV panels. I think they are 15AMP breakers.

It works just fine for me with any of those two 120VAC power sources...

I will continue using my garage standard 120VAC 15A/20A receptacles for my two 30AMP Rv trailers connected to it as I have been doing for the past few years. Each RV trailer is on a separate 20AMP circuit breaker in my house AC power panel but the receptacles used are the 15AMP style receptacles... I just re-checked this again in the garage a few minutes before posting this.


I only have one 20AMP style 120VAc receptacle used in my house wiring that was installed to operate an air compressor unit which is no longer hooked up. My fifth wheel trailer is using this 20AMP style receptacle.


I am sure my success is using the proper sized 10-3 GAUGE HD 50-foot extension cords and RV30A-15A long adapter. I have however used 12-3 GAUGE 50-foot extension cords as well with no ill-effect.

Can only report what I am seeing here... Works for me... Maybe I should report more on the 20AMP aspect of my hookup verses the 15AMPS??? I really should just install a 30AMP connections on the outside wall wired to the same 20AMP circuit and change the house circuit breaker to a 30AMP size and be done with it I guess... It probably wouldn't cost over $50 with everything available from LOWES.

just my thoughts
Roy Ken

[Bumpyroad]

Wishbone51 wrote:

goducks10 wrote:
If they were a good dealer they will give you a 'starter kit' which should have a sewer hose, 15' fresh water hose, toilet paper, 15a adapter, some chems for the toilet and maybe something I'm forgetting. We got one with the last two trailers we bought from different dealers. It all should come in a box.

...and a water pressure regulator.

of course that pressure regulator will be the $5 walmart special which has a dreadful flow rate. get a watts whole house type.
bumpy

[Wishbone51]

Lowsuv wrote:
Wishbone51
my 2002 Komfort came with a built in water pressure regulator .
i have one left over from my prior 3 RV's , also .
You can probably leave yours at home ............

I once was at a campground that had insane pressure.. Slightly stretched my hose, and never rolled up properly after.. I use the regulator at the faucet now, even though my trailer has a regulator.

[Lowsuv]

Wishbone51
my 2002 Komfort came with a built in water pressure regulator .
i have one left over from my prior 3 RV's , also .
You can probably leave yours at home ............

[Wishbone51]

goducks10 wrote:
If they were a good dealer they will give you a 'starter kit' which should have a sewer hose, 15' fresh water hose, toilet paper, 15a adapter, some chems for the toilet and maybe something I'm forgetting. We got one with the last two trailers we bought from different dealers. It all should come in a box.

...and a water pressure regulator.

[kt0819]

clev wrote:


I also chuckle at some of the questions posted and perhaps you should re-read your original question. You posted nothing about wanting to join friends; you posted 'first time' and this is only one of your many posts on the subject. You received some very good advice from some very knowledgeable members and then post 'I have to chuckle.....'. As new as you appear to be to the world of RV'ing, you should stop with the childish attitude of "oh boy, I'm going camping" and take your RV out for a mature evaluation how it works and your responsibilities on the road.

Point taken. I should have worded my post more appropriately. The only thing I am chuckling about were all the responses re: a/c. It's less than 50F right now so turning a/c wasn't even on my radar when I asked if we could use 15 amp. I realize people are taking the time to help me and I appreciate that. Again, I should have chosen my words more wisely and I apologize to anyone I may have offended.

As for meeting friends, well it seemed like as good a time as any to go out. Plus, they were the only reason I even found a possible spot because they told me about this first come first serve campground. At least there would be people we know who could help us should we need it. A few posters suggested we wait an extra weekend to go out so I simply gave my reason for wanting to try our first trip on a long weekend.

Full hook up sites go fast around here and run around $50 per night. It's not the type of camping we plan to do most of the time so we didn't want to wait three more weeks just to try out a full service site. Camping season is short enough here.

Sorry again for not having chosen my words properly. I certainly don't want to offend or upset anyone.

[clev]

Sorry Roy , I quoted the wrong message.

[clev]

RoyB wrote:
I have been using this setup for several years now with two trailers plugged into the garage here at CAMP BACKYARD. One trailer is plugged into a 15AMP garage 120VAC circuit and the other tralier is plugged into a dedicated 20AMP garage 120VAC circuit. Both trailer run everything in side including the 13,500 BTU air conditioners. Just have to watch what else is running at the same time otherwise it will trip the garage circuit breaker.

I use the RV30A-15A long adapter from WALMART that looks like this...

I cannot use the small round black small adapters that look like this as they will overheat on me after being used just for a short period of time


I also use a good HD Contractor type 10-3 50-foot extension cord plugged into the the garage 120VAC 15/20AMP receptacle. The contractor grade 10-3 HD extension cords are expensive - I found mine at a yard sale... My RV30A-15A adapter is then plugged into the end of this HD extension cord and then the trailer 30A Shore Power Cable is plugged into the adapter laying in the middle of the backyard. I have also used a 12-3 HD 50-foot extension as well without problems. You cannot use the red/orange 14-3/16-3 cheap extension cords you find at WALMART. They are too small to use. You also should make sure all three conductors are used. The HD extension cord looks like this


I like to use a RV 120VAC PLUG-IN AC VOLTMETER inside the trailer Plugged in where I can get a quick glance at it before turning on the Air Conditioner. It looks like this

This has a great feature with its SAFE ZONE marked in "GREEN". If the reading is outside this safe zone the air conditioner will most likey NOT WORK.

I always watch my RV120VAC Voltmeter just prior to turning on my Air Conditioner to make sure it is reading in the "GREEN" zone. I also on occasion feel my connections in the garage and laying out on the ground to make sure they are not warm to touch indicating poor connections.

Use a good HEAVY DUTY 10-gauge or 12-gauge Extension Cord and you should be good to go... Don't think you can get away with the cheap 14-16 gauge extension cord - they will get hot on you and may burn up your air conditioner due to power drop. Not worth it...

Just my comments
Roy Ken

I also chuckle at some of the questions posted and perhaps you should re-read your original question. You posted nothing about wanting to join friends; you posted 'first time' and this is only one of your many posts on the subject. You received some very good advice from some very knowledgeable members and then post 'I have to chuckle.....'. As new as you appear to be to the world of RV'ing, you should stop with the childish attitude of "oh boy, I'm going camping" and take your RV out for a mature evaluation how it works and your responsibilities on the road.

[RoyB]

I have been using this setup for several years now with two trailers plugged into the garage here at CAMP BACKYARD. One trailer is plugged into a 15AMP garage 120VAC circuit and the other tralier is plugged into a dedicated 20AMP garage 120VAC circuit. Both trailer run everything in side including the 13,500 BTU air conditioners. Just have to watch what else is running at the same time otherwise it will trip the garage circuit breaker.

I use the RV30A-15A long adapter from WALMART that looks like this...

I cannot use the small round black small adapters that look like this as they will overheat on me after being used just for a short period of time


I also use a good HD Contractor type 10-3 50-foot extension cord plugged into the the garage 120VAC 15/20AMP receptacle. The contractor grade 10-3 HD extension cords are expensive - I found mine at a yard sale... My RV30A-15A adapter is then plugged into the end of this HD extension cord and then the trailer 30A Shore Power Cable is plugged into the adapter laying in the middle of the backyard. I have also used a 12-3 HD 50-foot extension as well without problems. You cannot use the red/orange 14-3/16-3 cheap extension cords you find at WALMART. They are too small to use. You also should make sure all three conductors are used. The HD extension cord looks like this


I like to use a RV 120VAC PLUG-IN AC VOLTMETER inside the trailer Plugged in where I can get a quick glance at it before turning on the Air Conditioner. It looks like this

This has a great feature with its SAFE ZONE marked in "GREEN". If the reading is outside this safe zone the air conditioner will most likey NOT WORK.

I always watch my RV120VAC Voltmeter just prior to turning on my Air Conditioner to make sure it is reading in the "GREEN" zone. I also on occasion feel my connections in the garage and laying out on the ground to make sure they are not warm to touch indicating poor connections.

Use a good HEAVY DUTY 10-gauge or 12-gauge Extension Cord and you should be good to go... Don't think you can get away with the cheap 14-16 gauge extension cord - they will get hot on you and may burn up your air conditioner due to power drop. Not worth it...

Just my comments
Roy Ken

[kt0819]

I have to chuckle at some of the responses. I am in Canada and so many of you were great to caution me about not using a/c. Since it is only 50F here the a/c wasn't even on my radar! I now know not to use it but sadly I doubt I will even have a need. I forget how much nicer the weather is south of us.

We are used to tenting so just being off the ground will be a luxury. I don't see not having full hook ups as a downside at all. The reason we want to go despite the chance of only getting 15 amp is that we have an opportunity to go with friends. They know and like the campground, even though it is only first come first serve. It would be reassuring to have someone we know there.

We don't have electrical appliances for the TT as most of our supplies are the more traditional camping gear. :). We are good with that for now. I don't even know if I would ever bring a hair dryer camping!!