Electric trailer brakes sticking

[RavensFan24]

Last night on my way home I noticed my trailer brakes were sticking. I'd let off the brake pedal, but the trailer brakes wouldn't release. If I came to a complete stop and pressed the brake pedal all the way down, it would release the trailer brake. Tapping the brake again did not release the electric brakes. It didn't happen every time I braked, but it was happening about 80% of the time. The brake controller is about 9 years old and is a Husky Journey HD (Part #52740 6108). The tow vehicle is a 2010 Tahoe and the trailer is a 2015 Keystone Premier. This is the first time this issue has showed up, but obviously it is something that has to be resolved ASAP to avoid any physical damage.

I looked up this issue online and found a few people saying to cut wires to test things, but I'd like to avoid this if at all possible. Anyone have any alternate suggestions for identifying and troubleshooting this issue? I'm guessing it's more of a controller issue than a trailer/brake issue, but figured I'd see what others thought before I spent too much time trying to find the cause.

[Lynnmor]

Brake adjustment for 4 wheels takes no more than 15 minutes, but that ain't your problem. Did you check the brake lights on the truck when the brakes were dragging?

[RavensFan24]

So I replaced the old Husky controller with a Tekonsha P3. From what I was reading the Husky controller wasn't really meant to handle a trailer this large anyway, so I figured why not upgrade since it was almost a decade old and not designed for a large trailer.

Unfortunately, the same issue is happening with the brakes sticking. Looks like the mobile RV tech will be coming out soon. Any idea how long a brake adjustment should take on a 2 axle trailer, assuming that's the issue? I'm curious how much I should be prepared to spend.

As a side note, I did test to see if the brake lights stay on when the brake controller tells me the trailer brakes are still on and the lights were not on. I also tried backing up a little to see if they released and they did not. Granted I tried this in my driveway, so I didn't back up, but a few feet. I can hear the brakes buzzing when I'm out of the vehicle and the brake pedal is not being pressed.

[westend]

Troubleshooting a Husky HD brake controller If my controller was 10 or so years old, I'd buy a Prodigy P2 or P3 controller and save the Husky for a spare. In fact, that's just what I did.

[valhalla360]

For a quick check just listen for the buzz when you hit the brakes. If it doesn't stop when you release the brakes, there is likely something wrong with the controller/wiring. If the buzz does stop when you release, it's probably mechanical adjustment.

[eHoefler]

Brake that are out of adjustment will hang up. When it happens, back up, if they release, you are way out of adjustment.

[opnspaces]

Go for a drive with a friend. When you come to a stop and the brakes stick, have your friend get out and unplug the umbilical and see if the brakes release.

[All_I_could_aff]

Is it also possible the brake pedal switch is not reliably disconnecting the circuit when the pedal is released? Can you see the reflection of your brake lights well enough in the front of your camper to see that they turn off as soon as you let go of the pedal every time?

[JWRoberts]

While I agree with budwich's solution, mine is much simpler and will test your brakes under the same conditions that you described.

And as budwich said, don't toss your controller unless you have a technically verified reason to do so.

[budwich]

Actually, you don't have to do much IF you can duplicate your problem while standing still (ie. tap brake and it doesn't release... as "quoted").

go to your breakaway switch, pull the activator "finger"... do the brakes work? Good. Do they "stop working" once you put the activator back in? If not, you have a physical brake issue... cause there is no power going to them and the electrics won't hold if the power is gone (check by jacking one side of trailer to be able to spin wheel).

Once you have done the above to verify things in terms of wiring, then you can move on. Disconnect the trailer battery so that it CAN'T operate the brakes when the breakaway switch is pulled.
Now, connect the trailer to your truck. Activate the break away switch.... nothing should happen. IF the brakes operate, you have wiring issues.
Next, assuming that the brakes DID NOT operate with the breakaway switch, tap or manually activate your brakes at the truck until you are able to duplicate the "sticking". IF you get it to stick (again verify by spinning the "free hanging wheel"), then get a meter and touch the inside of the breakaway switch (where the finger goes in) to touch the contact (of course, the other meter lead is on ground). IF you see voltage there, then some point is providing voltage / power to your brakes... likely the controller. You can go from there.

My first guess is that you have a physical brake issue (seized, broken spring, etc)... but the test that I outlined will help determine if its electrical or mechanical.... without cutting or disturbing any wiring. Good hunting.

PS. people are going to tell you to just toss the controller and get a better / new one... problem solved ... maybe / likely.

[JWRoberts]

One way would be to temporally spice a wire into your brake wire AFTER the plug connector. Run this long wire into your TV to the plus side of a voltmeter. Put the black wire of the voltmeter to any unpainted metal surface or use a jumper to connect to the outside of a 12V auxiliary plug. Drive around a while and see if the voltage follows your braking actions. If so, you have mechanical problems. If not, replace your controller.