Electrical help

[Fish_mojo]

I am having an issue where my generator runs, but doesn't power my 120v service. Shore power works fine. I checked the generator circuit breaker and it is ok (Onan microlite 2800). After considerable digging, I finally found my auto transfer relay fully enclosed behind the wardrobe casework behind the electrical distribution panel. (BTW, this is a Class B+ Kodiak MH, but I know the TC guys are the smartest!!)

Progressive Dynamics PD5110 Generator Transfer Relay http://www.progressivedyn.com/pd5110010.html

I had to pull a drawer and cut out an access just to reach the ATS to troubleshoot. I popped the cover and tested shore power in and out and it is good (normal position of switch). I then disconnected from shore power and started the generator. 120v going in, coil does not energize to the load. I could manually close the contact with a wood push stick and the load is energized.

Obviously, the relay/timer/coil circuit is bad. Problem is access to replace due to where it is located. I am considering some sort of manual switch setup. I do have some room to tag off of the conductors to attach to some switch or jumper set up.

Any ideas on how to repair this??

[tmartin000]

Great job.
A quick thought, you may want to add an Rv surge suppressor. I cannot say for sure that a surge suppressor would have saved the unit, but I would add one.

[Victory402]

I love this forum and when a plan comes together!

[Fish_mojo]

Thanks all. Got the unit pulled. Coil windings are open. Replacing the entire unit ($67 on Amazon).

[sleepy]

Driftwood132 wrote:
After checking for burnt wires, make sure the gen is outputting AC , just replace the ats, yes its hard to get to but you will be happy in the long run. Putting plugs and manual plugging in is a pain. And will cost more then the ats.

Some of the ATS (automatic transfer switch) have a reset... some have an indicator light inside the box... some have a setting that keeps you fom having a 30 second delay... read the literature supplied by your campers manufacturer before you tear into anything...

use your multimeter to make sure the gen power is getting to the ATS

chet

[Driftwood132]

After checking for burnt wires, make sure the gen is outputting AC , just replace the ats, yes its hard to get to but you will be happy in the long run. Putting plugs and manual plugging in is a pain. And will cost more then the ats.

[Bedlam]

My toy hauler did not have a transfer switch. The genset had a female plug where you connected the shore power cord. You could do the same if you have shore power input in a storage compartment by mounting your genset output to this location.

It allowed my hauler to be plugged into a pedestal or the generator without being able to plug in both at the same time, so it was dummy proofed. I liked having my 2 phase Onan 5500 available to exclusively power the hauler, house, welder or large air compressor without needing to wire isolation or additional circuits.

[newman_fulltime]

You might want to check the wiring harness behind the fridge had one the the harness was to close to the exhaust tube and it melted the harness

[tmartin000]

Being that your rig is a 2006, that places the switch assembly almost 10 years old. They are under an Rv buck. Just replace it.

Linky

[Artum_Snowbird]

So, if you have 120 going into the coil.. what are you measuring to? Earth ground? Have you checked on the output of the coil to ground to see if the coil is actually good, but the return wire is somehow not connected?

Often people diagnose the problem as a blown coil, and in changing out the expensive part, the faulty wiring is renewed, and there never was a coil problem but the customer pays for the new part and the removal and re-installation.