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Fender flares for 2014-2018 Silverado

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
I've got some rust around the rear wheel opening on my 2015 Silverado that needs to be covered up after I do some sanding and painting to try and stave it off for a while.

Anybody have a set of aftermarket fender flares they recommend?

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.
19 REPLIES 19

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Latner wrote:


It's probably just me, but the snarky responses don't help.


But it's still better than 3 threads discussing the gear ratios of a hypothetical F150....lol
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Latner
Nomad
Nomad
mkirsch wrote:
Latner wrote:
Instead of asking for help with fender flares on a RV tow vehicle forum, why not go to one of many actual truck forums where you will probably get answers to your questions...or make a few phone calls to some of the sellers of said fender flares, geez :R


Because this is a TOW VEHICLE forum, and people here accessorize their tow vehicles. I'm asking about an accessory for one of my tow vehicles to make it look better, but as per usual, everyone is hung up in the "why."

I was hoping it might be a refreshing change from the typical Ford vs. Chevy vs. Dodge, Gas vs. Diesel, my 1/2 ton will tow a space shuttle vs. you need a 1 ton dually to tow a roller skate arguments. Oh and the 768 page discussions about how electric will never be any good.

The "actual truck forums" were much worse.

Vendors sell thousands of products. You can't expect a phone operator working for minimum wage to know every detail about everything they sell. Everything the vendor knows about the product is on the website. Besides, they're not going to tell you that anything they sell is poor quality, difficult to install, or won't meet your needs. It's called real world experience.

So, thanks for well, nothing, everyone. Back to your regularly scheduled program.


It's probably just me, but the snarky responses don't help.

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Here some constructive advice.
Since youโ€™re still in the pontificate phase, order several types that you think will work, from Amazon.
Theyโ€™ll all show up on your door step in short order. Then just keep the ones you want and the rest are super easy to return.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Why are you so grumpy about this?
Because no one has a pre-recorded solution for you?
Look at it this way. The forum is mostly grampas. I see the occasional like rare grampa with the big add on fender flares on his truck.
Probably not many who even have add on flares much less do body work.

Iโ€™m probably your best resource. Have and do both and I donโ€™t even have your answer qued up.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
Latner wrote:
Instead of asking for help with fender flares on a RV tow vehicle forum, why not go to one of many actual truck forums where you will probably get answers to your questions...or make a few phone calls to some of the sellers of said fender flares, geez :R


Because this is a TOW VEHICLE forum, and people here accessorize their tow vehicles. I'm asking about an accessory for one of my tow vehicles to make it look better, but as per usual, everyone is hung up in the "why."

I was hoping it might be a refreshing change from the typical Ford vs. Chevy vs. Dodge, Gas vs. Diesel, my 1/2 ton will tow a space shuttle vs. you need a 1 ton dually to tow a roller skate arguments. Oh and the 768 page discussions about how electric will never be any good.

The "actual truck forums" were much worse.

Vendors sell thousands of products. You can't expect a phone operator working for minimum wage to know every detail about everything they sell. Everything the vendor knows about the product is on the website. Besides, they're not going to tell you that anything they sell is poor quality, difficult to install, or won't meet your needs. It's called real world experience.

So, thanks for well, nothing, everyone. Back to your regularly scheduled program.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

Fisherman
Explorer
Explorer
The way I look at it, fender flares just hide stuff and allow it to corrode further as time goes by. I would be hesitant to buy anything like that.

Latner
Nomad
Nomad
mkirsch wrote:
Grit, old buddy old pal,

This isn't my first rodeo. You can grind and sand and wire wheel and paint all you want but you are only covering up the OUTSIDE.

You can't get to the INSIDE, which is where it's rusting from, without cutting out the old metal.

Once the paint is blistering on the outside, it's rusting through from the inside.

...and that's EXACTLY what I want, someone to say, "Hey this Brand X are easy to install and they cover up 2.5" from the edge of the wheel well opening." Even someone to say, "Hey, this brand X is easy to install and are a great value for the price." You don't need to know how much I want to repair.

For such a smart guy you are having a tough time wrapping your head around such a simple question.


Instead of asking for help with fender flares on a RV tow vehicle forum, why not go to one of many actual truck forums where you will probably get answers to your questions...or make a few phone calls to some of the sellers of said fender flares, geez :R

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Mine either...and what I was trying to exude was that not all rust comes from the inside out, but I did mention that I understand it could be or even likely is from the inside out.
Most recent example, I thought I had a mess on my hands with rusted windshield frame. What I found when I got into it, was that there was no rust on the inside save for where it had completely rusted through and immediately adjacent there was no corrosion inside when I cut out the bad spots.

Sorry I got off track and also wasn't able to recommend a specific product.

However, if there's any chance you're not just dumping it before the salt trucks get fired up again in a few months, the sprayable rust converter stuff with the hose and wand works pretty well for hidden areas if you can get access however. Can't comment on longevity, but I sprayed all the A pillar, cowl and roofline seams inside between the sheetmetal layers before cutting out the bad spots and the pieces I cut out, that stuff was bonded or adhered well and looked like complete coverage. It's like $30 a can though.
Good luck getting it fixed up! CHeers
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
Grit, old buddy old pal,

This isn't my first rodeo. You can grind and sand and wire wheel and paint all you want but you are only covering up the OUTSIDE.

You can't get to the INSIDE, which is where it's rusting from, without cutting out the old metal.

Once the paint is blistering on the outside, it's rusting through from the inside.

...and that's EXACTLY what I want, someone to say, "Hey this Brand X are easy to install and they cover up 2.5" from the edge of the wheel well opening." Even someone to say, "Hey, this brand X is easy to install and are a great value for the price." You don't need to know how much I want to repair.

For such a smart guy you are having a tough time wrapping your head around such a simple question.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
mkirsch wrote:
Grit dog wrote:
I presumed it was just surface rust bubbling the paint, not rusted through.

Not sure which google you're using, but the "5000 different options" are really like a dozen different styles from 100 different vendors, lol.

Although, I'm confused, you first said you were planning in "fixing" the rust (presumably not with a good finish or color matched, hence the need for flares) and said you were looking for something you liked.

Then you said you're just slapping them on to cover up the rust to sell it.

If the latter is the case, buy the cheapest ones you can find and add a for sale sign to your order and let er rip.

PS, still think the bushwhacker type wide flares look awkward with OE size wheels and no lift, so I'd go with skinny OE style looking flares.


It is surface rust but surface rust means it's on the verge of rusting through. Sanding it down and painting it will buy me 6 months max. To do it properly I would have to have the old metal cut out and replaced.

I fail to see anything contradictory about my statements. Yes, I plan on doing some sanding and slapping on of paint, probably black POR15 because I have some leftover from another project. Then I want to cover up the rust with fender flares, because despite my sanding and paint, the rust is still there.

This way if questioned I can honestly say I "fixed" the rust before adding the flares, because that's how you "fix" rust in car salesman world.

I agree on the Bushwacker flares, and would never install those. I just want something quick and easy and cheap that will cover up the rust. Impossible to tell from the pictures if they will cover up the rust, or how easy/hard they are to install, or if they even fit decent out of the box.


Well, "we" don't know how far up the fenders you will be "repairing."
"We" don't know if its on the inside surface and if you plan on "repairing" that as well or not.
So noone can tell you, hey you can repair 2" up from the fenderwell and the flare you've picked out is 2.5" tall.

What I can tell you is that rust is oxidation. Steel can't oxidize if it's not exposed to.....oxygen. and your thinking is sound, in that if you TOTALLY seal the properly prepped surface (IE wire wheeled down to shiny steel and or a rust converter over minor flash rust, WITH a topcoat of paint) and you don't miss any spots, AND then protect that area from further road damage, rock chips, etc, it WILL last far longer than 6 months.

Now your propensity to fix it right (without cutting out otherwise good sheetmetal, or maybe it's worse and rusting from inside out) may not be there, and a quick wire wheel, scuff n scratch, rust converter, hide with fender flares, "may" only make it through one salt belt winter before rust pops up again.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
Latner wrote:
REALTRUCK


26 results, most of which are depicted on Fords, Rams, Jeeps or different era Silverados. This is AFTER I selected "2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 6'6" bed."

I have no idea what they will look like on my truck, how much they will cover, or how they go on. Again, I don't have infinite money to keep buying garbage after garbage until I find a set I can deal with.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
Grit dog wrote:
I presumed it was just surface rust bubbling the paint, not rusted through.

Not sure which google you're using, but the "5000 different options" are really like a dozen different styles from 100 different vendors, lol.

Although, I'm confused, you first said you were planning in "fixing" the rust (presumably not with a good finish or color matched, hence the need for flares) and said you were looking for something you liked.

Then you said you're just slapping them on to cover up the rust to sell it.

If the latter is the case, buy the cheapest ones you can find and add a for sale sign to your order and let er rip.

PS, still think the bushwhacker type wide flares look awkward with OE size wheels and no lift, so I'd go with skinny OE style looking flares.


It is surface rust but surface rust means it's on the verge of rusting through. Sanding it down and painting it will buy me 6 months max. To do it properly I would have to have the old metal cut out and replaced.

I fail to see anything contradictory about my statements. Yes, I plan on doing some sanding and slapping on of paint, probably black POR15 because I have some leftover from another project. Then I want to cover up the rust with fender flares, because despite my sanding and paint, the rust is still there.

This way if questioned I can honestly say I "fixed" the rust before adding the flares, because that's how you "fix" rust in car salesman world.

I agree on the Bushwacker flares, and would never install those. I just want something quick and easy and cheap that will cover up the rust. Impossible to tell from the pictures if they will cover up the rust, or how easy/hard they are to install, or if they even fit decent out of the box.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

Latner
Nomad
Nomad

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
mkirsch wrote:


Define "properly." If I were to fix it PROPERLY, the rusty metal would be cut out and replaced with new, painted to match, and I would not want or need fender flares to cover anything up.

That's going to cost me a few thousand dollars, which I do not have or want to spend on this truck. It has already let me down twice in the last 1000 miles with stuck lifters. I just want to cover up the rust and pawn it off on some unsuspecting car salesman.


I presumed it was just surface rust bubbling the paint, not rusted through.

Not sure which google you're using, but the "5000 different options" are really like a dozen different styles from 100 different vendors, lol.

Although, I'm confused, you first said you were planning in "fixing" the rust (presumably not with a good finish or color matched, hence the need for flares) and said you were looking for something you liked.

Then you said you're just slapping them on to cover up the rust to sell it.

If the latter is the case, buy the cheapest ones you can find and add a for sale sign to your order and let er rip.

PS, still think the bushwhacker type wide flares look awkward with OE size wheels and no lift, so I'd go with skinny OE style looking flares.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold