Fresh water tank

[vtraudt]

We are just a bit short on freshwater for our typical weekend trip.
I have a small wheeld 5 gal (or 8?) tank. Even that one is cumbersome to lift up, hold while slowly draining into the campers fresh water tank.

Thinking about a larger one, but with a PUMP.

Any suggestions/ideas how to incoroprate a pump into a wheeled tote like this to fill the camper's fresh water tank?

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61GDNUsjZvL._AC_SL1000_.jpg

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61GDNUsjZvL._AC_SL1000_.jpg

[dieseltruckdriv]

Bobbo wrote:

dieseltruckdriver wrote:
The one of the differences is my pump hoses fit in the tote also. The other difference is my hose fittings fit standard garden hoses, female in male out.

My hoses ride in the trailer anyway, in case I need to fill the tank at my site. (I don't use shore water. Even with full connections, I use the tank.)

The reason I went with double males is that when I connect a hose to the faucet, it connects to a male fitting. When the bladder is full, I close a hose shut-off valve and leave the hose attached to the bladder. I take it to the trailer and that hose, still connected to the bladder, now connects to the male fitting on the pump. The other male fitting on the pump now connects to the normal tank filling hose.

My 5er still has a gravity fill port, and we also only use our fresh tank. I just got done with a spot with electric and water for 9 days, and never pulled a hose out, since our fresh tank was full was full when we got there.

I only mentioned it because some think they HAVE to use the city hookup instead of using their fresh water tank. I don't understand why.

I don't worry about my tank sensors because I know two full fresh tanks fit in our 2 grey and 1 black tanks. In 9 days, we didn't use 1 fresh tank, much less two.

[rlw999]

Bobbo wrote:

vtraudt wrote:
How do you drag a full bladder from well to camp site?
That is where 'tote' (=wheels) come into play.

Personally, I empty the back of the pickup truck and just lay it in there. However, if you don't have a truck, lay it on top of the car's roof/trunk and drive slowly.

I wouldn't recommend putting it on the roof unless it's a very small bladder. Some friends once tried to bring home a few sheets of plywood from Home Depot that way -- they put down a blanket and tied the plywood down securely. They drove on neighborhood streets to keep the speed down.

Everything was fine and they were nearly home and hit a bump or pothole in the road and suddenly the roof sunk 3 inches.

Surprisingly the insurance company did cover it, and ended up totaling their 3 year old car since it was not repairable.

[Bobbo]

dieseltruckdriver wrote:
The one of the differences is my pump hoses fit in the tote also. The other difference is my hose fittings fit standard garden hoses, female in male out.

My hoses ride in the trailer anyway, in case I need to fill the tank at my site. (I don't use shore water. Even with full connections, I use the tank.)

The reason I went with double males is that when I connect a hose to the faucet, it connects to a male fitting. When the bladder is full, I close a hose shut-off valve and leave the hose attached to the bladder. I take it to the trailer and that hose, still connected to the bladder, now connects to the male fitting on the pump. The other male fitting on the pump now connects to the normal tank filling hose.

[Bobbo]

vtraudt wrote:
How do you drag a full bladder from well to camp site?
That is where 'tote' (=wheels) come into play.

Personally, I empty the back of the pickup truck and just lay it in there. However, if you don't have a truck, lay it on top of the car's roof/trunk and drive slowly.

[vtraudt]

mobeewan wrote:

I also took a spare pump and added garden hose connections.

Can someone point me towards the adapter I need to connect 'garden hose' to the inlet/outlet of the typical RV pump (sure flow or similar)?

Something like this? Anderson Metals 57480-1208 Brass Garden Hose Fitting, Connector, read ¾” Male GHT x ½” Female NPT

https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Metals-Garden-Fitting-Connector/dp/B000FPAPM8/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=3%2F4+to+1%2F2+ght+plastic&qid=1629810635&s=industrial&sr=1-7


Since I have the (old, but working) pump still in my 'wet box' in teh trailer, may as well put the correct adapters on, cut up an old garden hose (one end syphon hose, one and to stick into the fresh water fill port) and run some 12V to the area.

[dieseltruckdriv]

mobeewan wrote:

I also took a spare pump and added garden hose connections. I mounted mine to a small plastic cutting board. It is kept in a small plastic bin with extra fittings and a water pressure gage. I can connect it at the truck 7 pin plug or trailer battery for power.

I forgot to mention that also, I did wire my pump so it would work off my 7 pin plug since it is in the back, just like my bladder.

[mobeewan]

dieseltruckdriver wrote:

ktmrfs wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
My boondocking water kit. Throw the tote in the truck and go. Has everything except the hoses, that live in the TT anyway. The blue thing is the 45 gallon potable water bladder.



The pump, showing hose connections (both male), switch, and fuse. I have an SAE connector on there because I have an SAE supply on the trailer, and battery cables with an SAE connector. I can power the pump either way.



Neither large, nor heavy. To me, at least

the 45 gallon bladder is certainly a good solution if it's easy to fill at the campground, less space and easier to do than jugs, but Many campgrounds we go to the fresh water source (a) isn't really accesible with a truck with a bladder in it, and (b) no threads on the water spigot so you need a "water thief" and a LONG hose. So that' why we use the 7 gallon jugs.

This is also nearly exactly what I do. I got tired of the 6 1/2 gallon jugs. The one of the differences is my pump hoses fit in the tote also. The other difference is my hose fittings fit standard garden hoses, female in male out.

Edited to add: Also my water bladder is a 60 gallon version.

I also took a spare pump and added garden hose connections. I mounted mine to a small plastic cutting board. It is kept in a small plastic bin with extra fittings and a water pressure gage. I can connect it at the truck 7 pin plug or trailer battery for power.

[dieseltruckdriv]

ktmrfs wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
My boondocking water kit. Throw the tote in the truck and go. Has everything except the hoses, that live in the TT anyway. The blue thing is the 45 gallon potable water bladder.



The pump, showing hose connections (both male), switch, and fuse. I have an SAE connector on there because I have an SAE supply on the trailer, and battery cables with an SAE connector. I can power the pump either way.



Neither large, nor heavy. To me, at least

the 45 gallon bladder is certainly a good solution if it's easy to fill at the campground, less space and easier to do than jugs, but Many campgrounds we go to the fresh water source (a) isn't really accesible with a truck with a bladder in it, and (b) no threads on the water spigot so you need a "water thief" and a LONG hose. So that' why we use the 7 gallon jugs.

This is also nearly exactly what I do. I got tired of the 6 1/2 gallon jugs. The one of the differences is my pump hoses fit in the tote also. The other difference is my hose fittings fit standard garden hoses, female in male out.

Edited to add: Also my water bladder is a 60 gallon version.

[Gdetrailer]

vtraudt wrote:
We are just a bit short on freshwater for our typical weekend trip.
I have a small wheeld 5 gal (or 8?) tank. Even that one is cumbersome to lift up, hold while slowly draining into the campers fresh water tank.

Thinking about a larger one, but with a PUMP.

Any suggestions/ideas how to incoroprate a pump into a wheeled tote like this to fill the camper's fresh water tank?

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61GDNUsjZvL._AC_SL1000_.jpg

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61GDNUsjZvL._AC_SL1000_.jpg

The tank in your link is for grey/black waste water, not really designed or intended for use as potable water supply..

See HERE

One of the disclaimers from the link..

"FOOD GRADE SAFETY: Plastic #2 (HDPE) means that the tank can be used to store fresh water for drinking. But we suggest not to contain direct drinking water. It’s more suitable to store fresh water for cleaning food and hands"

While it may be made of food grade plastic, the main concern is it really is designed for waste water and as such it has all kinds of possible ways to use it for waste. Someone may accidentally mistake your intentions or down the road it may get switched and used for waste without your knowledge..

But, if you insist on going down this road, you just need a self priming pump that could be connected to the tank.

Since it has many different sized openings you should be able to adapt one of those openings to a suitable connection to a pump..



A 12V pump like THIS which is suitable for Potable water could be easily rigged to your wheeled tote.

HERE is a slightly lower cost water pump that works from 12V..

[Lynnmor]

I use the onboard pump to draw the water in thru the city water inlet, no extra pump, wiring or switch. I simply removed the check valve from the city water port and added a inline check valve inside. Then I put a tee between the city water port and the check valve then connected the winterizing hose to it. I wheel the water container to the RV and connect a short hose to the city water inlet and the portable container. Turning the valves in various ways puts water in the tank or allows use directly from the container. Just a few dollars for a check valve, tee, hose clamps and a short hose and none of the messing around with an extra pump.

[Lwiddis]

A fresh water bladder is a good idea if you have the truck bed space and available payload....8.25 pounds per gallon of water plus the bladder.

[RickLight]

I carry a few of these Water jugs.

They are cheap, store well and come in many sizes. I can carry 2 from a central spigot in the campground, several times if needed. Or put them in my truck to fill on a day trip.

[wing_zealot]

Clicky

[vtraudt]

rlw999 wrote:

Even the pictured 10 gallon wheeled tote is going to weigh over 80 lbs, so it's going to be hard to move it very far by hand unless you're on flat pavement.

10 gal is easy to roll (yes, certainly flat, gravel/paved).
Bladder in car to get water is not a desired option for ME, rather go twice with 7 gal jug (mine has wheels, works well) or the 10 gal 'tote' on wheels (strap to back of trailer or under floor for storage).

[rlw999]

vtraudt wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
Lighter too. You see it folded up under the pump in the "kit" photo.

How do you drag a full bladder from well to camp site?
That is where 'tote' (=wheels) come into play.

A full 45 gallon bladder would weigh 375 lbs, I'm not sure that there are any wheels are going to help with that unless you've got a paved surface with no inclines - it's almost certainly going to sit in the back of the tow vehicle.

Even the pictured 10 gallon wheeled tote is going to weigh over 80 lbs, so it's going to be hard to move it very far by hand unless you're on flat pavement.