HELP PLEASE... Hitch and extension ?

[Miguel951]

Hello and thank you in advance for any input/ clarity you can provide. I have a 2003 F-250 W/ a 2K LB (dry) truck camper. I need a 3' extenion to be able to tow my 12' flatbed single-axle trailer and RZR XP41000 weighing around 3-3.5K LBS (guesstimate)

Currently, I have a factory 2" V5 hitch, max weight of 5K LBS/ 500 LBS TW or 12.5 LBS/1,250 LBS W/ weight distribution hitch. I do have a weight distribution hitch from my old toy hauler BTW and think I will be using it. I also have airbags and a sway bar in the rear (stock sway bar in front). I have no idea what the tongue weight is.

I want to keep this price conscious, wondering if I should just go with a 2" 36" extenion and make sure it has the chains and all that good stuff or if I should completely replace the hitch for a 2.5 or a dual hitch with the cross bar? I want to do it right and safe but not over the top if I dont have to. Any input would be appreciated.

[Miguel951]

Thank you for recommendation. I will be sure to include hitch into measurement

[3_tons]

Note, that when considering the 18” extension, add to that the length of the inserted ball hitch to arrive at the overall length, thus you may be able to get by with just a 18” extension…

3 tons

[Miguel951]

Thank you everyone, for all the wonderful and helpful feedback. Things are looking up and this sure seems way more plausible now. the camper is on a 6.75' bed for sure. will get the truck weighed and I think I will upgrade to a 2.5" hitch as well if it makes sense. Additional feedback is welcomed.

My apologies for the lack of data at first, crazy how the responses change when you give the right information

[Grit_dog]

You don’t need a wdh or the hassle of additional considerations with that truck, camper and trailer even if you truly will have a 600lb tongue weight. You got newer better wheels that have great capacity tires. The 7200lbs for the wheels IS the limiting factor if you choose to follow it. OE rims are hard to find ratings for but it’s pretty universal they’re thought to be or are rated for 35-3600lbs. And they are very durable at those weights and a bit more. (Think about the OE mfgs liability with their wheels on the millions of HD pickups that get abused and misused regularly. If they were failing every time or any time someone overloaded them a bit, just the negative publicity alone, not even getting to liability cost, would be a death sentence for an OEM. Hence they’re all over designed. Proof? None actual, besides, watching, driving, repairing or being responsible for 100s of HD pickups over the years used in construction by anyone from folks like me to hundreds or thousands of employees who can barely sleep their name (sometimes literally) but are goin to get the job done that day…

Real world personal TC example. Short bed Dodge 2500 on OE 17” alloys and later OE 20” alloys. Real world rear axle weights from the 7200lb range to approaching 8klbs depending on the trailer. 20-30k miles of loaded driving including the Alaska Highway at the upper and of the range and all over AK at the lower end (far worse highways (frost heaves) than most anywhere in the L48) and never an issue with tires or wheels.

Another thing worth considering, idk if you own the trailer you describe or just planning for the smallest trailer that will haul that buggy. But a slightly longer tandem axle basic utility or car hauler trailer will provide you far more latitude in optimizing tongue weight and also stability/durability of the trailer. Trailers are easy to sell/purchase and not a huge difference in total expense if you’re smart and patient.
Added bonus, with any TC, storage space is at a premium. Especially if you’re packing gear, parts and fuel for a hot rod SxS as you are. A bit bigger, lot better, trailer will afford you a bunch of space for not only tongue weight adjustment but also more storage options.
Worth thinking about.

[Bedlam]

I expect the rear of the truck to weigh 2750-3000 lbs unloaded. Your 2003 has the same 9250 lb rated Visteon Sterling 10.5" axle they still use today on the F250, but your brakes are smaller. Your setup is limited by the 7280 lb limit of tires and rims, so you have between 4000-4500 lbs of actual capacity but will be over both RAWR and GVWR door frame stickers.

You still need to put the truck on a scale and measure front axle weight when empty and loaded. This will tell you if the CG of the camper is too far back behind the rear axle. BTW: Both my Artic Fox and current Host are rear heavy if my tanks are empty.

[mkirsch]

Miguel951 wrote:
Just read that someone didn't recommend a weight distribution hitch for an extension. Interesting. Could you explain? I think I see a reason but just looking to be more educated on this. Is it because it could bend or kink the bar?

A WDH is not an anti-gravity device. It uses leverage to perform its function. Basically it is "prying up" on the rear of the truck. Stuck a bar or pipe or any sort of long lever-like instrument into the receiver, get out on the end of it, and lift up. Same idea.

It all goes back to those lessons you should have gotten in 7-8th grade "Physical Science" class about levers and torques. The longer the lever arm, the more force is applied. A hitch extension is very much a longer lever, and it has to be designed for the forces applied by the WDH.

The Curt/Reese 24-35" extension for 2-1/2" receivers is rated for some WDH (6000lbs), and the Torklift products for sure are. Others that may be out there may or may not be. They might hold up, and they might not. At least if you get one that's officially rated, you can be fairly confident that it's going to perform its function. Unrated there will always be a significant doubt in the back of your mind which takes all the fun out of driving.

[Grit_dog]

And yeah weigh the camper because there’s no way it’s only a little over 2klb, but it’s nowhere near 4k unless you have it crammed full of heavy ****.
Regardless. You’re fine

[Grit_dog]

Now that you posted a pic, either that camper ain’t 10’ long or that’s a long bed.
10’ camper would be sticking 3-1/2” out the back of that short bed.
I’ll assume the half pic of the truck bed ain’t hiding an 8’ bed?
You don’t need even need the tailgate unless the camper is flimsy. And if it ain’t, then it’s not putting any real weight on it anyways. Unless you have it shimmed up on the tailgate.

There’s nothing wrong with that setup and much to do about nothing.
Our old camper stuck out about a foot further and I used an 18” extension with multiple trailers.
Keep your hitch receiver for now and figure out how it fits with the jack or put a fold up jack on the trailer.
Don’t worry about c of g of the camper, nor your tongue weight.

Now don’t go and say that camper is on someone else’s long bed or you’re back in the same boat mostly…lol.
And communication skillz are important…

[Miguel951]

Let me give this another shot. I can see how having all the details could help in providing the right direction. my apologies there.

Goal: For truck to be able to carry camper, tow trailer w/ rzr behind.

Plan: Best case scenario- (If needed) 2.5” hitch with 24” (from pin hole to pin hole) Curt Extension Bar- specs: 6K max/ 600 lbs TW regular or 8K max/800 TW W/ WD hitch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00537ESCQ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1. and run an Easy lift V5 weight distribution hitch (12” long from pinhole to ball).

Camper sticks out 28” from the Hitch receiver.

Truck:
2003 F-250 4X4 V10, crew cab, 6.75’ bed.
Specs: GVWR 8,800lbs. Front GAWR= 4400 lbs and Rear GAWR= 6,084 W/LT235/85R16E Tires and rim. 2’ OEM Hitch V5 (W/ WDH 12,500 max/ 1,250 TW W/O WDH 5000 max/ 500 TW)

Upgrades:
overload spring (stock)
rear firestone airbags (drill into frame type)
1 3/8” rear sway bar
Tires-Firestone transforce HT (LT275/70R18) on 2022 OEM rims. Load range E (Max load 3,640 lbs @80 PSI) (which is what I run them at)
Real-time pressure/ heat tire sensors
planned Upgrades:
Wedge under overload spring
lower point of contact for overload bumpers

Camper:
2003 Elkhorn LT 9D
Specs: 2,070 LBS, W/136L of H20, 20lbs propane tank, fridge. No bottom bumper. Exterior measurements (10’ bottom, 17’ top, 96’ wide, 90” tall)
*NOTES: CG seems to be in front of axle (freshwater tanks, fridge, LP, Battery, water heater.

Trailer and RZR
12’ x 77’ flatbed trailer, Single axle, w/ elec brakes, hand jack 10” from ball receiver.
Xp1k4 Turbo. Loaded with the front end first, the motor in back.
According to this video, tongue weight is 600 lbs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltMgL4t6N1I)
I expect the trailer and rzr to weigh 3.5K LBS but that's a guestimate.

Worth noting:
I’ve heard the recommendation that some of the trailer can go under the camper and that the hitch extension doesn't necessarily need to stick past the camper. the thing to note is that the trailer jack and handle is 10” from the ball receiver and stick up high enough that it could hit the tailgate. I can consider removing and buying a smaller side frame jack if this solves some problems.

I agree I need to get the camper weighed.

[Miguel951]

Well maybe not. That 18" extension is maxed out at 3500 lbs 350 TW

[Grit_dog]

Miguel951 wrote:
jimh406- Thank you for your response and link to include pictures. I agree I need to determine length, and good call on getting a 2.5"-3" hitch. tongue weight is what it is in this scenario as the rzr barely fits. Thanks again

3” hitch is a waste. Idfk why Ford even started that fiasco. Maybe to detract from other shortcomings? Lol. They’re not rated for any more than the 2.5s. And also only on the 2017+ models I think?
The old chassis was the same frame from 99-16 so an OE 2.5 should fit. Maybe bolt up?

Good luck. Hope it all works for ya.
Now that you’ve shown you’re looking at it in detail, it’s a different story. None of us knew what your mystery camper was/is until now.
Still depends how stout it is. I’m not paranoid of putting some weight on the tailgate like some here. Nor am I worried about working the rest of the truck to its abilities.
Have to remember most folks here are campers not mechanics and or folks who know and work trucks like mules. So what you’re doing seems really far fetched to them.
Not sayin you won’t have some issues or hopefully just a few challenges but you’re not all wet like it first seemed.

[Miguel951]

Maybe the 18' bar could work. I think it would get me to 24" inches and 4" of the trailer would go under the camper. Just concerned the jack body and handle could hit camper

[Miguel951]

Just read that someone didn't recommend a weight distribution hitch for an extension. Interesting. Could you explain? I think I see a reason but just looking to be more educated on this. Is it because it could bend or kink the bar?

[Miguel951]