I know this has been discussed more than once but search wasn't turning up results.
We have a Ram 3500 with a 2-1/2 inch receiver. Our TC extends approximately 36" past the trucks receiver box. We will be flat towing a Jeep Wrangler that should weight 4500 pounds or so.
I know many folks use a Torklift Supertruss. I was hoping to use the factory receiver with something like this and cut to length.
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Adapters/Reese/RP45018.html
I would add diagonal chain back to the truck frame similar to what the super truss has. Suggestions?
I am also looking for advice on the towing apparatus. So far Blue Ox seems to be common and well liked. I am also considering their patriot brake. Open to suggestions. Thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Ox-BRK2016-Brake-System/dp/B01LYA4FEV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541281724&...
We have a Ram 3500 with a 2-1/2 inch receiver. Our TC extends approximately 36" past the trucks receiver box. We will be flat towing a Jeep Wrangler that should weight 4500 pounds or so.
I know many folks use a Torklift Supertruss. I was hoping to use the factory receiver with something like this and cut to length.
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Adapters/Reese/RP45018.html
I would add diagonal chain back to the truck frame similar to what the super truss has. Suggestions?
I am also looking for advice on the towing apparatus. So far Blue Ox seems to be common and well liked. I am also considering their patriot brake. Open to suggestions. Thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Ox-BRK2016-Brake-System/dp/B01LYA4FEV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541281724&...
work2much wrote:
Here is the finished hitch (minus some locking nuts for the turnbuckles) Looking into the hitch extension the loops on top of the bar are not intended for attachment points for safety chain (according to etrailer) They look stout but I decided to add safety chain in addition to the diagonal stabilizers. The bars rating by itself exceeds the weight of the Jeep so I'm sure the diagonals are not needed but I like the added stability.
I think the turnbuckles should be farther back from the receiver at the second set of loops to be effective.
You did REAL good work2much! You took the time to evaluate all the options and didn't cut corners. I went the diode method for my lighting, found a kit on e-trailer that I could understand the instructions to. Your method sounds like you found a solution you could understand as well and that is always good.
I have a Super Hitch and therefore a lower receiver hole to route my extension. If you had one, you might not have needed the drop.
Excellent results!
Here's some suggestions when you test the tow;
Find a wide open area and have a buddy ride in the bed of your truck. Have him observe the whole assembly as you maneuver turns and braking. I had to make slight adjustments to my turnbuckles and tension on my brake cable. In fact, I added a small turnbuckle on my brake cable for fine tuning. It's not feasible to adjust the length of this cable because it will stretch as it gets used. Test it going over curbs and troughs where the angle between the truck and the towed will be at it's most. Try braking during this and see how your towed brake pedal reacts. Try turns and braking as well.
I want to mention about cable routing. Your READY BRAKE towbar has the loop already but others who read this may not be aware of what they are looking at and what it does.
I welded a loop at the ball mount end of my tow bar. This is to route the brakeway cable, the brake cable and the light wiring cable. By routing all these cables as close to the pivot point as you possibly can, the cable lengths won't be too long or too short as you make left/right hard turns. I found that before I did that, on turns those cables would sag, then when I pulled straight again, they would hang up on various parts of the tow bar. READY BRAKE now sells this as an option with their main product. It should be standard as a safety feature! They stole my idea!!
Here's a photo from their website showing the cable pivot right above the tow bar pivot point.
Here's a link to READY BRAKE's turnbuckle for cable adjustment as well. (I couldn't capture it as a photo and post) It also shows the cable pivot loop idea as well;
TURNBUCKLE brake cable adjustment
I have a Super Hitch and therefore a lower receiver hole to route my extension. If you had one, you might not have needed the drop.
Excellent results!
Here's some suggestions when you test the tow;
Find a wide open area and have a buddy ride in the bed of your truck. Have him observe the whole assembly as you maneuver turns and braking. I had to make slight adjustments to my turnbuckles and tension on my brake cable. In fact, I added a small turnbuckle on my brake cable for fine tuning. It's not feasible to adjust the length of this cable because it will stretch as it gets used. Test it going over curbs and troughs where the angle between the truck and the towed will be at it's most. Try braking during this and see how your towed brake pedal reacts. Try turns and braking as well.
I want to mention about cable routing. Your READY BRAKE towbar has the loop already but others who read this may not be aware of what they are looking at and what it does.
I welded a loop at the ball mount end of my tow bar. This is to route the brakeway cable, the brake cable and the light wiring cable. By routing all these cables as close to the pivot point as you possibly can, the cable lengths won't be too long or too short as you make left/right hard turns. I found that before I did that, on turns those cables would sag, then when I pulled straight again, they would hang up on various parts of the tow bar. READY BRAKE now sells this as an option with their main product. It should be standard as a safety feature! They stole my idea!!
Here's a photo from their website showing the cable pivot right above the tow bar pivot point.
Here's a link to READY BRAKE's turnbuckle for cable adjustment as well. (I couldn't capture it as a photo and post) It also shows the cable pivot loop idea as well;
TURNBUCKLE brake cable adjustment
Here is the finished hitch (minus some locking nuts for the turnbuckles) Looking into the hitch extension the loops on top of the bar are not intended for attachment points for safety chain (according to etrailer) They look stout but I decided to add safety chain in addition to the diagonal stabilizers. The bars rating by itself exceeds the weight of the Jeep so I'm sure the diagonals are not needed but I like the added stability.
In this shot you can also see the sway bar installed yesterday. These are a new product from Hellwig for Rams with the factory air bags. It was a little more involved than bars I have installed in the past. Pro Tip: remove spare first. That was my wife suggestion and a big doh moment for me. :h
I did need to cut the bar down and add a 4" drop for the alignment to the tow bar. I left the bar long enough to remove the drop hitch at a later date when the Jeep get a small lift and larger tires. Cutting down the bar it became obvious why it so dang heavy.
The baseplate has also been installed on the Jeep. We used the Blue Ox Brand. Install was easier than I expected but you do need to unbolt and remove the bumper and 2 holes needed to be drilled into the frame. The surge brake cable and emergency break away cable were also installed and run up into the brake pedal in the jeep.
For turn signals I installed the Blue Ox bulb and socket kit. This is a simple install, a hole is drilled into the back of the light housing and a bulb added that is signaled from the tow vehicle. There are other ways to go using diode kits and magnetic lights attached to the outside of the jeep but I liked the simplicity of this and the fact it is 100% isolated from the Jeeps wiring.
Here is the Ready Brute tow bar installed on the hitch
We are almost ready to get this out on the road. :E
In this shot you can also see the sway bar installed yesterday. These are a new product from Hellwig for Rams with the factory air bags. It was a little more involved than bars I have installed in the past. Pro Tip: remove spare first. That was my wife suggestion and a big doh moment for me. :h
I did need to cut the bar down and add a 4" drop for the alignment to the tow bar. I left the bar long enough to remove the drop hitch at a later date when the Jeep get a small lift and larger tires. Cutting down the bar it became obvious why it so dang heavy.
The baseplate has also been installed on the Jeep. We used the Blue Ox Brand. Install was easier than I expected but you do need to unbolt and remove the bumper and 2 holes needed to be drilled into the frame. The surge brake cable and emergency break away cable were also installed and run up into the brake pedal in the jeep.
For turn signals I installed the Blue Ox bulb and socket kit. This is a simple install, a hole is drilled into the back of the light housing and a bulb added that is signaled from the tow vehicle. There are other ways to go using diode kits and magnetic lights attached to the outside of the jeep but I liked the simplicity of this and the fact it is 100% isolated from the Jeeps wiring.
Here is the Ready Brute tow bar installed on the hitch
We are almost ready to get this out on the road. :E
