cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

How do you level?

samhain7
Explorer
Explorer
I am self taught...my method may. It be the best, so I am curious how you all tell you rig is level?
I have seen the bubble indicators you attach to the sides..which I may get. In the meantime, how do YOU tell your level?
Final notice from MasterCard. Good! I'm sick of hearing from them.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
2016 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins, E2 WD w/sway
2015 Starcraft Autumn Ridge 289BHS
57 REPLIES 57

hstechteacher
Explorer
Explorer
I am a second generation RVer so yes I too have the milk crate assortment of 1xs, 2xs,4xs, and even a set of 5/4" stock. A set of each consists of a short(to go between wheels) and a little longer one for front or back. My last trailer, 26' Layton had very little twist so leveling was easy. My new monster, 314 Jayco w/ slides has proven to be a pain so far. We just took it out for the first time and was not happy with how much it moved around with even my 5 year old walking to the bathroom. I am still searching other threads about leveling and stabilizers with slide outs, and don't want to highjack this topic so I might start a new thread.

Just wanted to also add that I have a method of leveling not mentioned yet.....out here on Long Island we do a lot of beach camping. So I just take a shovel and dig sand out from beneath the high side tires in place!!!!

jaycocreek
Explorer II
Explorer II
The freezer.
Lance 9.6
400 watts solar mounted/200 watts portable
500ah Lifep04

BubbaChris
Explorer
Explorer
jaycocreek wrote:
Seems not to many are concerned with the frig being level... Seen to many crash from continued mis-use.


The tricky part is I don't know which part of my frig is really square and could be used for leveling. I asked the RV tech and he said the bottom floor is sometimes designed to be "off" to manage spilled liquids.

So how should I check my frig's degree of level?
2013 Heartland North Trail 22 FBS Caliber Edition
2013 Ford Expedition EL with Tow Package

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
samhain7 wrote:
..wouldn't it be better to have both wheels on the one side of a tandem level rather than have one wheel in the air?
Ya.. I hate when that happens.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

jaycocreek
Explorer II
Explorer II
wouldn't it be better to have both wheels on the one side of a tandem level rather than have one wheel in the air?


Yup!
Lance 9.6
400 watts solar mounted/200 watts portable
500ah Lifep04

samhain7
Explorer
Explorer
2oldman wrote:
Why is that bad?


I dunno. Was more so asking...wouldn't it be better to have both wheels on the one side of a tandem level rather than have one wheel in the air?
Final notice from MasterCard. Good! I'm sick of hearing from them.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
2016 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins, E2 WD w/sway
2015 Starcraft Autumn Ridge 289BHS

Community Alumni
Not applicable
EnochLight wrote:
PackerBacker wrote:
It also significantly lowers the fire risk as compared with Dometic or Norcold units.

... Eric


The new helium tech is awesome, but to suggest that there's a fire risk using a traditional hydrogen unit from Dometic or Norcold is unnecessarily alarmist. This tech has been in use for over 90 years.

Still, those new helium units are attractive. Hopefully they'll come down in price for us mere mortals to afford. ๐Ÿ˜„

I didn't mean to be 'alarmist' . I've also had both Dometic and Norcold units in previous rv's and I had a number of recalls done. My guess is if there were no risks then there'd be no recalls to mitigate them.

The Atwood happened to be the fridge that came with my new trailer; it wasn't something that I was particularly looking for, I would have taken whatever was in the rv.

... Eric

LVJJJ
Explorer
Explorer
Look for the most level area of the camp site (near the pedestal).

Eyeball it from back and side, determine the number of inches to raise the lower side, select correct number of yellow plastic leveling blocks, double check by eyeball, crank it up or down using eyeball, go inside look to see if wands on the shades hang vertical (might try the bathroom door thing),crank down stabilizers, done.

I used to use level bubbles but they were too small to be accurate, plus are they mounted right? I have found that it's how the trailer "feels" when walking around inside that is the best way to level.
1994 GMC Suburban K1500
2005 Trail Cruiser TC26QBC
1965 CHEVY VAN, 292 "Big Block 6" (will still tow)
2008 HHR
L(Larry)V(Vicki)J(Jennifer)J(Jesse)J(Jason)

jaycocreek
Explorer II
Explorer II
Lynnmor wrote:
If you level the trailer frame and the fridge is not level, you have bigger problems.


Never worked in trailer manufacturing..Saw it right off.:B

I used to and there are so many reasons that the frame can be level and other things in it are not,but it's not worth arguing about.

Leveling the frig is just to simple and after you replace a couple you'll see why it is so important.A retired RV tech once told me that not leveling an RV frig properly kept him in beer money in retirement.He replaces them or the unit on the spot whether it's in hunting camp or your driveway.
Lance 9.6
400 watts solar mounted/200 watts portable
500ah Lifep04

EnochLight
Explorer
Explorer
PackerBacker wrote:
It also significantly lowers the fire risk as compared with Dometic or Norcold units.

... Eric


The new helium tech is awesome, but to suggest that there's a fire risk using a traditional hydrogen unit from Dometic or Norcold is unnecessarily alarmist. This tech has been in use for over 90 years.

Still, those new helium units are attractive. Hopefully they'll come down in price for us mere mortals to afford. ๐Ÿ˜„
2013 Gulfstream Amerilite 16BHC Travel Trailer pulled with a 2008 Ford Escape Limited

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
If you level the trailer frame and the fridge is not level, you have bigger problems.

Community Alumni
Not applicable
jaycocreek wrote:
Seems not to many are concerned with the frig being level... Seen to many crash from continued mis-use.

Woodalls on why we even level an RV.

The primary reason for leveling any modern RV is to enable the absorption refrigerator, specifically the low-temperature evaporator coils in the refrigerator, to function properly. Due to the dynamics of the RV absorption refrigerator, the evaporator coils inside the cooling unit must permit the gravity flow of liquid ammonia through a portion of the system. And as any RVer who can spell "RV" will know, liquids simply won't flow uphill. Without getting too steeped into the theory of absorption refrigeration, suffice it to say that it can indeed be costly if the refrigerator is operated off-level. True, newer cooling unit technology incorporated in today's RV refrigerator employs a more vertical approach to evaporator positioning, still the refrigerator must be "relatively" level for optimum operation. Fore and aft as well as side to side leveling remains a concern

It used to matter more to me to have the fridge level but with the Atwood Helium fridge in my new trailer, it is no longer critical. It also significantly lowers the fire risk as compared with Dometic or Norcold units.

... Eric

EnochLight
Explorer
Explorer
Lynnmor wrote:

I do a similar thing. I use the frame and adjust the trailer to get as level as possible front to rear and side to side. I also check at multiple places because these lightweight frames twist easily. Once leveled, I install levels at opposite corners so that I can see any twist. The cheap levels can be stuck on only after replacing the junk foam with VHB tape from 3M.



I have the same levels from Camco. They lasted 1 year and now the liquid is no longer green - got sun bleached. ๐Ÿ˜ž It's clear.
2013 Gulfstream Amerilite 16BHC Travel Trailer pulled with a 2008 Ford Escape Limited

jaycocreek
Explorer II
Explorer II
Seems not to many are concerned with the frig being level... Seen to many crash from continued mis-use.

Woodalls on why we even level an RV.

The primary reason for leveling any modern RV is to enable the absorption refrigerator, specifically the low-temperature evaporator coils in the refrigerator, to function properly. Due to the dynamics of the RV absorption refrigerator, the evaporator coils inside the cooling unit must permit the gravity flow of liquid ammonia through a portion of the system. And as any RVer who can spell "RV" will know, liquids simply won't flow uphill. Without getting too steeped into the theory of absorption refrigeration, suffice it to say that it can indeed be costly if the refrigerator is operated off-level. True, newer cooling unit technology incorporated in today's RV refrigerator employs a more vertical approach to evaporator positioning, still the refrigerator must be "relatively" level for optimum operation. Fore and aft as well as side to side leveling remains a concern
Lance 9.6
400 watts solar mounted/200 watts portable
500ah Lifep04