How much drop should you have?

[jimh406]

Just wondering what people think is an appropriate amount of drop in the rear to keep the headlights at an acceptable adjustment? Or if you have other reasons for no drop, I'd be interested in knowing that as well.

I got my Talon Torklift tie downs on yesterday. Yeah, I've been busy to keep from using the new to me truck. BTW, I'm really happy with the ease of install and shocked about how light they are! I also finished the grinding necessary to use the Ford hitch with my 2.5 adapter and extension. For my application, I get bonus extra aluminum plates!

Now back to the point. I plan to put the camper on in a bit assuming the new drw hinges work as expected and the install goes ok. I plan to take before/after measurements bone stock just to see what it looks like. Assuming that works, I expect to report back later.

What I don't have a feel for is how much drop will I have as I add extra weight to the camper. I have options with the parts available: Energy Suspension bump stops, and Firestone air bags.

Gut feel at the moment is that I won't really need the air bags.

[Super_Dave]

If I use no aides I have a 4" - 5" drop with camper and boat connected. I use the air bags to raise the rear enough to provide slight engagement with the overload springs. I think this probably translates to a couple inches of drop with the aide of the air bags.

[AH64ID]

I don't use a TC, but I do use airbags and load my truck up to 6-7K lbs on the rear axle from time to time, and nearly 6K on every camping trip.

I have found that allowing the rear suspension to squat about 1-1.5" and then hold there provides with better stability, cornering, smother ride, and steering/headlight aiming.

I do have a 1" level, so with an OEM front end I would let it drop 1.5"-2".

Whatever you do, do not add air until you are back to your empty height. It will make for a very rough ride.

[bigfootford]

Air bags level mine. Onboard compressor makes it easy to adjust for camper on or off and mild adjustments when setting up in an unlevel camp site.

Jim

[Rich1961]

jimh425 wrote:
FWIW, I have just over a 3 inch drop at the rear tie down compared to without camper. In my case, that's going to be weight too much for my liking as is. The rear tie down seems very low. On another note, adding the bump stops made neglible impact, so I take it that the overloads are minimally engaged at the moment.

Jim,
The Energy Suspension Bump Stops are to soft. You need Torklift StableLoads. I tried the Energy Suspension Bump Stops, and they weren't even close to getting the overload springs to engage as soon because they have to collapse before any real pressure is placed on the spring.
Rich

[Reality_Check]

Ours = zero.


Reality is, most have some. Is yours acceptable? Put it this way; would you want to drive at your oncoming headlights? Can you see the road like you're supposed to? There's your answer.

[jimh406]

FWIW, I have just over a 3 inch drop at the rear tie down compared to without camper. In my case, that's going to be weight too much for my liking as is. The rear tie down seems very low. On another note, adding the bump stops made neglible impact, so I take it that the overloads are minimally engaged at the moment.

[_DJ_1]

I think you're just going to have to try it. My truck has pretty limber rear springs as I want the articulation for off road. The TC and especially if I have a trailer too the rear end squats enough where I get flashed for high beams a lot.

A 10" phillips screwdriver adjusts the headlights in short order. Just count the revolutions needed so you can put it back to stock when empty.

[cewillis]

Different class of truck and camper, but I have no drop at all. That's to maintain off-road clearance, and because I could.