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Leak at grey tank outlet - advice wanted

Harlock
Explorer
Explorer
There is a good dribble at the tank side of the outlet flange, it eventually fills up the corrugated plastic sheeting underneath the trailer with water. You can see some gasket material extruded out. (see arrow for actual leak point)

It looks like the flange threads are glued on with pipe cement, judging by the dribbles of solidified stuff coming out of the threads.

Can PVC pipe cement seal the leak from the outside? Should I apply a piece of pipe material and cement, or just the cement?

As a secondary thing, I now need to patch up the corrugated plastic I cut though. Maybe clean it and use duct tape? Not sure how long that would last.

2005 Keystone Outback M-27 RSDS
2000 F250 Crew Cab 7.3L Diesel W/ECU Programmer
12 REPLIES 12

noteven
Explorer III
Explorer III
westend wrote:
06Fargo wrote:
westend wrote:
06Fargo,
Man, I like what you did there. That looks like a real good way to get a substantial leak patch onto that area. Kudo's to you for taking the time to film the operation. 'Attaboy!!


Hi westend - sorry for the confusion that is not my video... but it is basically what I did to repair a leak almost identical to what the OP is dealing with in the picture at the start of this thread.
OK, I take it all back. ๐Ÿ˜‰

Naw, thanks for posting the video, it is a good way to attack a tank leak. ๐Ÿ™‚


๐Ÿ™‚

westend
Explorer
Explorer
06Fargo wrote:
westend wrote:
06Fargo,
Man, I like what you did there. That looks like a real good way to get a substantial leak patch onto that area. Kudo's to you for taking the time to film the operation. 'Attaboy!!


Hi westend - sorry for the confusion that is not my video... but it is basically what I did to repair a leak almost identical to what the OP is dealing with in the picture at the start of this thread.
OK, I take it all back. ๐Ÿ˜‰

Naw, thanks for posting the video, it is a good way to attack a tank leak. ๐Ÿ™‚
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

noteven
Explorer III
Explorer III
westend wrote:
06Fargo,
Man, I like what you did there. That looks like a real good way to get a substantial leak patch onto that area. Kudo's to you for taking the time to film the operation. 'Attaboy!!


Hi westend - sorry for the confusion that is not my video... but it is basically what I did to repair a leak almost identical to what the OP is dealing with in the picture at the start of this thread.

Samsonsworld
Explorer
Explorer
I've used that spray can rubber sealant (Flex Seal) on a few pvc leaks and it worked well. Think that stuff will bond to just about anything.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
06Fargo,
Man, I like what you did there. That looks like a real good way to get a substantial leak patch onto that area. Kudo's to you for taking the time to film the operation. 'Attaboy!!
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

noteven
Explorer III
Explorer III
Fresh water tanks are often polyethelene - whitish/grey in color. The only permanent repair is welding I understand.

Your black color hard plastic tank will be ABS. That fitting will be glued in to the molded fitting on the tank more than likely...

I repaired a leak in the same flange area of an ABS grey water tank basically using the same method as in this video. Our orange depot doesn't sell the Oatley medium or heavy cements (each grade has more plastic content = "thicker") so I made some by dissolving clean ABS pipe in some acetone in an air tight lid glass jar. I also used brush on precleaner solvent:

Clicky

ThomasFour
Explorer
Explorer
WayneAt63044 wrote:
The black colored holding tanks are made of polyethylene. You can get solvent for that material in a can like PVC cement. Use fiberglass cloth and rebuild the area with the cloth and solvent by layering. It dries hard like the tank.


I just had to address a similar problem on my fresh water tank (although probably more serious than yours). I solicited advice on this forum and other sources. Here is what I learned:
1. My fitting was spin welded into the tank (Google it)
2. My black-colored fresh water tank is ABS, not poly. ABS cement is the appropriate product (readily available).
3. ABS cement will bond with metal window screen better than fiberglass and allow you to do some rebuilding/repair of the area.

I am not definitively judging your problem and/or materials to be the same as mine, but it sure looks similar. I just wanted to relay my experience. My fix has held for a couple weeks and a 400+ mile trip last weekend (including a pretty rough dirt road). If I can be of any assistance, feel free to ask. Good luck!

WayneAt63044
Explorer
Explorer
The black colored holding tanks are made of polyethylene. You can get solvent for that material in a can like PVC cement. Use fiberglass cloth and rebuild the area with the cloth and solvent by layering. It dries hard like the tank.
2012 Forest River V-Cross Vibe 826VFK
pulled by 2009 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Hemi

Harlock
Explorer
Explorer
Several friends are recommending PC Products' Plumber's Putty Expoxy.
2005 Keystone Outback M-27 RSDS
2000 F250 Crew Cab 7.3L Diesel W/ECU Programmer

Cup_fan
Explorer
Explorer
Maybe try some Flex Seal? Our local Walmart sells it in the "as seen on tv" section. I've used it to seal a couple of leaky gutters, still holding after 2 years. Another option might be to drill and tap a small hole, and put a screw with some thread sealant in there.
2015 Silverado 2500HD
2015 Rockwood 8315 BSS
Sammie and Ginger (our four legged kids)
Navy veteran

gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
JB Weld may do the job.

Harlock
Explorer
Explorer
Actually that may not be a threaded flange, what looked like threads might be brush strokes from the cement brush.
2005 Keystone Outback M-27 RSDS
2000 F250 Crew Cab 7.3L Diesel W/ECU Programmer