Leaks!!

[Tyandkate]

My adventure started when we headed to san antonio the jayco was in storage and while there a field rat found its way in.... and died.... upon searching for his entrance i discovered the previous owner must have had a blow out which busted the wheel well which is plastic when that happened it also busted the backer board around it. while i was uncovering this to repair i noticed daylight shining through around the outside electrical outlet.... and the wall so soft you can out your finger through it. I'm concerned the flooring is also rotten out. is there a way to just fix the leak or is it possible its at a point where some major rework needs to be done? I would post photos but cant figure out how.

[mat60]

Tyandkate wrote:
Thanks for the replies and encouragement y’all. To the comment above I oppoligize. The camper is a 2007 Jayco 25Z Featherlite. So far I’ve stopped the leaks. The exterior of the camper doesn’t show a leak ever was in place. I’m currently drying the camper out then I’ll start cutting out some of the inner wall to see just what will need to be done. If it’s repairable I would much rather do that over selling it for nothing. To go in debt for a new one.

..Good.. I have done allot of repair work in our old camper we had. Take your time and ask away sir. Mark

[Tyandkate]

Thanks for the replies and encouragement y’all. To the comment above I oppoligize. The camper is a 2007 Jayco 25Z Featherlite. So far I’ve stopped the leaks. The exterior of the camper doesn’t show a leak ever was in place. I’m currently drying the camper out then I’ll start cutting out some of the inner wall to see just what will need to be done. If it’s repairable I would much rather do that over selling it for nothing. To go in debt for a new one.

[SidecarFlip]

What always amazes me is the level of shoemakerism people go to, to cabbage stuff up.

Just coined a new word... Shoemakerism...lol

Always better, in the end, to fix something right, least in my book.

[LVJJJ]

Doesn't sound that bad to me. I've fixed a lot worse, how about half the floor of the TT and the entire rear corner? No biggy, love doing it. There is something also called CPES epoxy that hardens and restores wood.

Just bought a Trail Cruiser that had blowouts on both sides. One side took out the aluminum framing behind the wheel and bent up the steel wheel well and got up into the area behind the kitchen sink. So the last owner left the wheel well all bent up, patched it with an unsealed piece of aluminum and cramed towels up under the cabinet either to keep the water out or for insulation. Then covered the damage behind the wheel well with old plywood without any caulking. So I had to remove the galvanized wheel well and pound it back to straight, insulated the area and repaired the whole area behind the wheel all the way to the back with aluminum sheeting that is sealed in place, after drying out the area and sealing the wood with CPES. Unfortunately the floor behind the wheels has sagged an inch or so, but the wall and top don't seem to have sagged too, is weird, not sure why. I welded up an outrigger brace to keep the sag from going any further. The Cruiser has an aluminum frame and is built of a fiberglass, plywood, 1 1/2" white solid insulation and interior plywood sandwich, so leaks don't act the same as regular trailers where the water follows the wood frame, all leaks stay isolated in the same area, there are no water marks inside.

So, don't be afraid to attack the damage, I always look at these things as a challenge and love solving it. It might actually be less bad than you think.

[SidecarFlip]

Neither is cheap. I've used Git-Rot on boats before. It's 45 bucks a hit at West Marine and thats for a small amount.

Of course the OP had never stated what the RV make is, nor the year, nor the outer skin, only that it's 'aluminum framed'. I don't know of very many units that are aluminum framed in the first place.

[wgriswold]

Boaters face this problem all the time. There are products that will infiltrate the rotten wood and make it hard again, epoxy resin hard. Git-Rot is one and West Systems makes another. Google will find directions for you.

I would find ways to add these products to the rotten wood, seal off all ways for water to get in and get on with life. Maybe by drilling 1/4" holes above the problem areas and also below and then add the stuff at the top until it comes out at the bottom.

[rexlion]

If the water had come from above and ruined the entire wall, it might be really bad. But down low like that, maybe you can cut away the bad spots in wall and floor, and patch it up again.

[hilandfrog]

Sooooooo, I'd reccomend patching it up the best you can add lots of dicore and travel all over the place with it..
It does not have to look pretty just function well right ?
Add some treated 3/4 ply underneath to support sagging wood, throw in some anti fungal/ rot, paint and play with your friends and family...

OR

Spend way too much time / money fixing something that MAY not affect the travel worthiness of trailer??

I have to remind myself these things aren't going to be airborne or going underwater so the "danger" of something happening is pretty slight.

Enjoy and have a great Christmas.

-Repo

[GrandpaKip]

Really, folks?
Without seeing a thing, you’re saying it’s hopeless?
To the OP:
Depending on your skills, almost nothing is unsurmountable. Take your time and deconstruct until all the rot is out, then access the total damage. At this point, you can now see what the actual repairs would entail.
Whatever you do, good luck.

[DanNJanice]

SidecarFlip wrote:
I think...you are screwed. Time (spring) to peddle it off on another unsuspecting sucker.... just say'in...

Probably right, the damage is most likely far worse than it appears. This is also why I will never buy a used trailer. Too many people willing to dump their stuff on other people and "forget" to mention it.

[Tyandkate]

Thanks for all the replies y'all, we got a huge rain storm here in texas today and I was really able to see the water entrance. It appears the factory never sealed around the outside electrical outlet. Mix that with the busted wheel well from the blow out (Fun fact I actually found a chunk of tire still just hanging out in the camper cabinet). I'm going to assess the damage seems like from the floor 6" up is soft on the wall about a foot wide. I know the camper is aluminum framed so maybe not too much rot. Main thing at the point is dry it in then dry it out!

[pianotuna]

Great Stuff expanding foam and Eternabond are going to be your friends.

[SidecarFlip]

Despite my first comment, I do feel your pain. Not just from the present condition but from the devious way it was sold to you and yes, if it's that soft, it's rotten and water logged underneath and fixing the outside, does nothing for the inside and yes, it's a major job that you may be up to but make no bones about it, it's involved and time consuming and the mold that is growing inside the walls is very unhealthy for you.

patching the outside does nothing for the inside and will not remediate what is occuring under the outer skin.

My last unit also had issues and I sold it for a loss and I was honest with the buyer as well. I went on to a new unit and believe me, I watch it like a hawk.

[Lwiddis]

A good inspection would have discovered these issues but I guess you passed. NMDriver’s suggestions will work for a while. Major work or start over with another RV...your choice.

[NMDriver]

All Purpose Bondo will strengthen the wall backer board and stop any water intrusion. It will also seal around the electrical outlet and provide a strong base for re-attaching the outlet. It is rigid so can crack at joints that flex but can be coated with a flexible sealer like EPDM tape or paint where that is a likely water entry point.