Longer reciver stinger, what effect on ?

[path1]

We’ve put on about 1,500 miles since getting our new to us trailer. Overall we're happy but Not happy about couple of things.

One of the things I’m not happy about is length of receiver stinger.

Only if it was 6 inches longer.

1. I could turn a lot sharper.

2. I could put my tailgate all the way down regardless if we were perfectly level or not.

Would a 6 inch longer receiver (part that goes into receiver tube) have any other effects?

[martipr]

LarryJM wrote:

4X4Dodger wrote:

LarryJM wrote:

All I could afford wrote:
It would tend to increase trailer sway as well as multiply the effect of your tongue weight putting more weight on your rear axle of tow vehicle.
Try it and see, if you can get the ball mount for a reasonable price.

I've been using the longest drawbar available for the last 30+ years on two different trailers and have noticed no adverse effect. The impact is IMO so minor as to be insignificant in the overall scheme of things and distances involved.

I use the longer draw bar so I can full open the rear doors on my Van without hitting the jack. IIRC my drawbar is around 15 to 18" or about 6" longer than a standard drawbar. I understand some drawbars have multiple holes with different ratings, but mine has a single hole and it's so old it doesn't have or the rating stamp is long gone, but it's solid steel and heavier than sin and is not cast, but welded out of 2" soild square steel stock.

Larry

Larry

Can you tell me where you got this longer ball mount/draw bar? I have looked all over my area and on the Reese web site to no avail.

I currently have a class V 2 1/2" Reese Titan

Like you I want to have room to lower my tailgate while hitched.

Thanks

Sorry can't help you there. The drawbar came with my previous trailer that I bought in 1982 that had the ancient round bar WDH. When we got our current trailer and I switched to a Equal-i-zer hitch I had the dealer use the old longer drawbar to mount the new ball mount to. The drawbar doesn't have any manufacturer stamp or markings on it.

Larry

Try etrailer.com
800-298-8924
Monday - Friday: 7 am - 8 pm (all times Central)
Saturday: 9 am - 5 pm
Sunday: 12 pm - 6 pm

[Dragonfly]

4X4Dodger wrote:

Thanks for the suggestion. I can always just replace the tongue jack and put it on the side of the A-Frame. I want to avoid this, not because it has any inherent faults but because having the right length ball mount would be so much easier.

As for hitting the propane tanks I think those are far enough back to be out of the way unless I was kicked over at a sharp angle. But this is another reason to have a longer drawbar.

Thanks again for the number.

PS: I think someone mentioned that you will have to either get new or, extend your existing safety chains. I added an extension using an extension link that was two times stronger than needed. If you don't have the documentation check the dealership or manufacturer for the chain specs needed.

Also, plan ahead and be sure that the trailer to truck electric cord will reach.

By the way, I have an electric jack. The controls protruded towards the truck. All I had to do is unbolt the jack, turn it 45 degrees and reattach it, thus gaining the 2-3 inches that the jack controls protruded, from the front to the side. I doubt that I could relocate the jack safely. I suppose if you have a hand crank jack, turning it wouldn't give any benefit but relocating might.

Finally, if you just couldn't find the right length draw bar. I did find un-drilled draw bars in a variety of lengths. You would have to have holes drilled for the receiver lock and for the ball. But, you should be able to find the right length pre-made.

[4X4Dodger]

Dragonfly wrote:
The forum is looking a little convoluted today so I am not able to fully follow the thread but if it hasn't been answered, I got a long drawbar from Leonard's Trailers in North Jackson, Ohio (near Youngstown) 12800 Leonard Parkway, North Jackson, OH 44451,
Phone: (330) 538-2112, http://www.leonardtrailers.com. I am sorry but I can't remember the length and I am away from home. If necessary, I will measure it when I return home.

They had them in stock but they used to have a strong on line sales presence. I had trouble finding their on line parts and accessories when I checked their site so you may have to call them.

My goal was to get it as SHORT as I could but still allowing me to drop the tailgate. Turning my jack sideways gave me a few extra inches which helped a lot.

Also, if you want the tailgate down when trailer and truck are not both facing straight forward, be sure to check to see, if you are parked at an angle, will the dropped tailgate hit the jack, the propane tank housing or something else.

Thanks for the suggestion. I can always just replace the tongue jack and put it on the side of the A-Frame. I want to avoid this, not because it has any inherent faults but because having the right length ball mount would be so much easier.

As for hitting the propane tanks I think those are far enough back to be out of the way unless I was kicked over at a sharp angle. But this is another reason to have a longer drawbar.

Thanks again for the number.

[Huntindog]

I am pretty sure that EQUALIZER makes the one I have in the 2.5" version...(RVW doesn't stock it though) But IIRCC, it is not rated any higher than the 2" version. So no real advantage, and the disadvantage of only being able to use it in 2.5" recievers.

4X4Dodger wrote:

DustyR wrote:

Huntindog wrote:

4X4Dodger wrote:

LarryJM wrote:

All I could afford wrote:
It would tend to increase trailer sway as well as multiply the effect of your tongue weight putting more weight on your rear axle of tow vehicle.
Try it and see, if you can get the ball mount for a reasonable price.

I've been using the longest drawbar available for the last 30+ years on two different trailers and have noticed no adverse effect. The impact is IMO so minor as to be insignificant in the overall scheme of things and distances involved.

I use the longer draw bar so I can full open the rear doors on my Van without hitting the jack. IIRC my drawbar is around 15 to 18" or about 6" longer than a standard drawbar. I understand some drawbars have multiple holes with different ratings, but mine has a single hole and it's so old it doesn't have or the rating stamp is long gone, but it's solid steel and heavier than sin and is not cast, but welded out of 2" soild square steel stock.

Larry

Larry

Can you tell me where you got this longer ball mount/draw bar? I have looked all over my area and on the Reese web site to no avail.

I currently have a class V 2 1/2" Reese Titan

Like you I want to have room to lower my tailgate while hitched.

Thanks

My drawbar

Another Choice:

My Hitch/Shank

Thanks to both of you for your suggestions. That may be the way I have to eventually go. I was hoping to find a Class V 2 1/2" Drawbar/ballmount similar to the pic below. All one piece but longer by about 6" from the hole in the shaft to the C/L of the Ball Mount. Checked Reese web site and a few others but nothing so far.

[Dragonfly]

The forum is looking a little convoluted today so I am not able to fully follow the thread but if it hasn't been answered, I got a long drawbar from Leonard's Trailers in North Jackson, Ohio (near Youngstown) 12800 Leonard Parkway, North Jackson, OH 44451,
Phone: (330) 538-2112, http://www.leonardtrailers.com. I am sorry but I can't remember the length and I am away from home. If necessary, I will measure it when I return home.

They had them in stock but they used to have a strong on line sales presence. I had trouble finding their on line parts and accessories when I checked their site so you may have to call them.

My goal was to get it as SHORT as I could but still allowing me to drop the tailgate. Turning my jack sideways gave me a few extra inches which helped a lot.

Also, if you want the tailgate down when trailer and truck are not both facing straight forward, be sure to check to see, if you are parked at an angle, will the dropped tailgate hit the jack, the propane tank housing or something else.

[4X4Dodger]

DustyR wrote:

Huntindog wrote:

4X4Dodger wrote:

LarryJM wrote:

All I could afford wrote:
It would tend to increase trailer sway as well as multiply the effect of your tongue weight putting more weight on your rear axle of tow vehicle.
Try it and see, if you can get the ball mount for a reasonable price.

I've been using the longest drawbar available for the last 30+ years on two different trailers and have noticed no adverse effect. The impact is IMO so minor as to be insignificant in the overall scheme of things and distances involved.

I use the longer draw bar so I can full open the rear doors on my Van without hitting the jack. IIRC my drawbar is around 15 to 18" or about 6" longer than a standard drawbar. I understand some drawbars have multiple holes with different ratings, but mine has a single hole and it's so old it doesn't have or the rating stamp is long gone, but it's solid steel and heavier than sin and is not cast, but welded out of 2" soild square steel stock.

Larry

Larry

Can you tell me where you got this longer ball mount/draw bar? I have looked all over my area and on the Reese web site to no avail.

I currently have a class V 2 1/2" Reese Titan

Like you I want to have room to lower my tailgate while hitched.

Thanks

My drawbar

Another Choice:

My Hitch/Shank

Thanks to both of you for your suggestions. That may be the way I have to eventually go. I was hoping to find a Class V 2 1/2" Drawbar/ballmount similar to the pic below. All one piece but longer by about 6" from the hole in the shaft to the C/L of the Ball Mount. Checked Reese web site and a few others but nothing so far.

[DustyR]

Huntindog wrote:

4X4Dodger wrote:

LarryJM wrote:

All I could afford wrote:
It would tend to increase trailer sway as well as multiply the effect of your tongue weight putting more weight on your rear axle of tow vehicle.
Try it and see, if you can get the ball mount for a reasonable price.

I've been using the longest drawbar available for the last 30+ years on two different trailers and have noticed no adverse effect. The impact is IMO so minor as to be insignificant in the overall scheme of things and distances involved.

I use the longer draw bar so I can full open the rear doors on my Van without hitting the jack. IIRC my drawbar is around 15 to 18" or about 6" longer than a standard drawbar. I understand some drawbars have multiple holes with different ratings, but mine has a single hole and it's so old it doesn't have or the rating stamp is long gone, but it's solid steel and heavier than sin and is not cast, but welded out of 2" soild square steel stock.

Larry

Larry

Can you tell me where you got this longer ball mount/draw bar? I have looked all over my area and on the Reese web site to no avail.

I currently have a class V 2 1/2" Reese Titan

Like you I want to have room to lower my tailgate while hitched.

Thanks

My drawbar

Another Choice:

My Hitch/Shank

[LarryJM]

4X4Dodger wrote:

LarryJM wrote:

All I could afford wrote:
It would tend to increase trailer sway as well as multiply the effect of your tongue weight putting more weight on your rear axle of tow vehicle.
Try it and see, if you can get the ball mount for a reasonable price.

I've been using the longest drawbar available for the last 30+ years on two different trailers and have noticed no adverse effect. The impact is IMO so minor as to be insignificant in the overall scheme of things and distances involved.

I use the longer draw bar so I can full open the rear doors on my Van without hitting the jack. IIRC my drawbar is around 15 to 18" or about 6" longer than a standard drawbar. I understand some drawbars have multiple holes with different ratings, but mine has a single hole and it's so old it doesn't have or the rating stamp is long gone, but it's solid steel and heavier than sin and is not cast, but welded out of 2" soild square steel stock.

Larry

Larry

Can you tell me where you got this longer ball mount/draw bar? I have looked all over my area and on the Reese web site to no avail.

I currently have a class V 2 1/2" Reese Titan

Like you I want to have room to lower my tailgate while hitched.

Thanks

Sorry can't help you there. The drawbar came with my previous trailer that I bought in 1982 that had the ancient round bar WDH. When we got our current trailer and I switched to a Equal-i-zer hitch I had the dealer use the old longer drawbar to mount the new ball mount to. The drawbar doesn't have any manufacturer stamp or markings on it.

Larry

[Huntindog]

4X4Dodger wrote:

LarryJM wrote:

All I could afford wrote:
It would tend to increase trailer sway as well as multiply the effect of your tongue weight putting more weight on your rear axle of tow vehicle.
Try it and see, if you can get the ball mount for a reasonable price.

I've been using the longest drawbar available for the last 30+ years on two different trailers and have noticed no adverse effect. The impact is IMO so minor as to be insignificant in the overall scheme of things and distances involved.

I use the longer draw bar so I can full open the rear doors on my Van without hitting the jack. IIRC my drawbar is around 15 to 18" or about 6" longer than a standard drawbar. I understand some drawbars have multiple holes with different ratings, but mine has a single hole and it's so old it doesn't have or the rating stamp is long gone, but it's solid steel and heavier than sin and is not cast, but welded out of 2" soild square steel stock.

Larry

Larry

Can you tell me where you got this longer ball mount/draw bar? I have looked all over my area and on the Reese web site to no avail.

I currently have a class V 2 1/2" Reese Titan

Like you I want to have room to lower my tailgate while hitched.

Thanks

My drawbar

[coolbreeze01]

I wouldn't have a hitch that didn't allow room to drop the tailgate. What an inconvenience that must be.

[4X4Dodger]

LarryJM wrote:

All I could afford wrote:
It would tend to increase trailer sway as well as multiply the effect of your tongue weight putting more weight on your rear axle of tow vehicle.
Try it and see, if you can get the ball mount for a reasonable price.

I've been using the longest drawbar available for the last 30+ years on two different trailers and have noticed no adverse effect. The impact is IMO so minor as to be insignificant in the overall scheme of things and distances involved.

I use the longer draw bar so I can full open the rear doors on my Van without hitting the jack. IIRC my drawbar is around 15 to 18" or about 6" longer than a standard drawbar. I understand some drawbars have multiple holes with different ratings, but mine has a single hole and it's so old it doesn't have or the rating stamp is long gone, but it's solid steel and heavier than sin and is not cast, but welded out of 2" soild square steel stock.

Larry

Larry

Can you tell me where you got this longer ball mount/draw bar? I have looked all over my area and on the Reese web site to no avail.

I currently have a class V 2 1/2" Reese Titan

Like you I want to have room to lower my tailgate while hitched.

Thanks

[RoyB]

I have seen some pretty long extension I guess they are that the TRUCK CAMPERS use to get past the camper overhang so they can pull an utility trailer or Jeep etc...

Was looking at MELLO MIKE's setup on-line just a week or so back.. I was pondering hehe...

I noticed on one of his setups he had some long chains added back to the truck bumper for keeping the bar more stable...

Roy Ken

[ZeeLet50]

I also went with a longer draw bar. I have the equalizer WD and yes the new bars are not cheap. I have one for sale if anyone needs it BTW. PM me for details.
I did notice the increased bounciness when loaded lighter and am addressing that this year by adding Helwig shackle helpers and readjusting my load bars. The convenience of being able to open the rear gate without unhitching is well worth it.

[Terryallan]

Prolly have to get longer chains.