My Electric System - Am I going to die?

[johnnylawless]

Travel Trailer: 1983 Man-O-War 15'

Where the 120V AC 30amp comes inside (driver side):


Converter Close Up (passenger side, front corner):
Input Current - 3.75 Amps AC
Input Voltage - 120 Volts AC
Output Current - 25 Amps DC
Output Voltage - 12.6 Volts DC


Converter Overhead (passenger side, front corner):


Fuses Closeup (driver side, front corner):


Fuses Overhead (driver side, front corner):



QUESTION #1: Is there an immediate concern?
So that fuse box looks pretty corroded. Is that a bad thing? What about the stripped paneling to the top right and left of the fuse box, is that from excessive heat?

QUESTION #2: What is the loose bundle coming out of the right side
of the fuse box?

QUESTION #3: Flipped fuse? No fuse? Everything I've tested seems to work on shore power.
I have no battery yet. What is the point of this fusebox, is it to prevent over draw from 12V DC items (currently only lights I think)?

QUESTION #4: What is the loose wire (red/yellow) coming out of the converter? Is that for the battery connection?

QUESTION #5: Any idea if a battery will power my AC Outlets or are they shore power only?


Miscellaneous Questions:
* Any idea what amp fuses those are?
* How do I add a battery?
* Does this electrical look original or custom?
* Am I going to die?

Thank you in advance for your help!

[westend]

You have a DC power supply there, not a multi-stage converter or charger. Right on the rating plate is the DC output--12.6V. It will run your 12V devices and charge your battery like a very big trickle charger. If hooking a battery to it, the battery will gradually (or swiftly) degrade because the plates in the battery need at least 13.5V or higher, at times, to maintain battery health.

Read here at: The 12V side of life and at Battery University.

If you're adding solar and can increase battery storage (think 2 x 6v Golf cart batteries), you may not need a converter or charger as the solar controller will do an excellent job of charging the batteries (as long as the sun shines). If however, you're into this trailer to use and enjoy for awhile, a new multistage converter should be on your shopping list.

BTW, most camping trailers in most States require a battery to be onboard for the emergency break away braking system. Does your rig have brakes?

[enblethen]

yours look to be very old. I doubt whether it has any functions like in article. I would say even the output would be strange. The battery in older rigs acted as the filter. I would look into a newer converter if you plan on keeping the rig.
Did you find any more DC fuses?
Mrrvtech link

[johnnylawless]

Just read this, which says converter should handle charging of battery:
http://www.mrrvtech.com/services.html
A converter will not "cook" your battery or over charge it, if it's a good battery. Now if your battery is weak or has a bad cell it may deceive the converter into thinking it is dead and continue to charge it giving the impression it's "cooking" but it is the battery that is bad not the converter. Most converters will drop to a trickle charge once 14.8 volts have been sensed, and maintain full voltage when the battery is not in use.

Mine is probably pretty old, any idea if it would have the "autosensing" features mentioned?

[johnnylawless]

@Ron3rd, and the list of things I need grows on 🙂

I've heard some folks say you NEED a battery as a buffer from your converter and 12v devices. I guess that's not true, right?

Do you know if the charge controller that comes with this solar kit would work for the converter also?

http://www.amazon.com/Solar-Panel-Bundle-100W-Monocrystalline/dp/B00B8L6EFA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408482354&sr=8-2&keywords=solar+kit+renogy

[Ron3rd]

Another point; I see a power converter but don't see a battery charger which you will need if adding a battery. The converter you show is for converting 120v to 12v for lights, etc.

[johnnylawless]

Thanks for the answers so far!

And thank you Bud (enblethen) for your service!

Our handyman (turned certified master electrician a few years back) will be doing any live work (if I wind up doing any at all).

Mostly I just want to add a battery and verify that the current system will not catch fire. It sounds like only one of the fuses is actually powering internal lights (if at all?).

[GomerPile]

First post, new RV'er and electrical engineer.

Looks like each wire in that bundle is wired to the fuse block. Therefore the flipped up fuse is doing nothing. I would remove those loose wires so they don't short against anything important. I suspect once you unscrew the loose wires that fuse block will only have connections on one side...meaning its not in use.

The paneling wear looks like mechanical abrasion and not overheating.

Don't use that fuse block because it will be flaky and/or get hot. If it turns out something is running thru it then get it replaced soon.

[westend]

1. Verify that the fuses are for the exterior trailer lights and remove them from those fuses, they should be connected, soldered and shrink wrapped. You no longer need to fuse them as modern vehicles have the fuses onboard.
2. No idea, power it up with 12V and see what happens.
3. From the colors of the wires, they correspond to trailer exterior lamps with the exception of the black wire. It may be your light circuit-interior.
4. No idea, verify that there is power with a meter.
5. Battery only powers 12V devices like lamps, pumps, and fans. Your AC outlets are powered by the shore power cord.

The DC fuses, FYI, have the ratings stamped into the metal end caps. Connect battery to converter output wires. Looks like original wiring. Yes, you will eventually die. If you mess with electricity without any knowledge or skill, you may decrease the interval between birth and death.

[ol__yeller]

I can answer the last question. Yes, you are going to die. Hopefully it won't be from this.

[enblethen]

There is a couple things that i would correct immediately.
1) yes get a new fuse block. cut off the existing terminals and install new ones or better yet get a fuse block that does not use terminals. See item 3
2) Bundle of wires appear to be the ones that originally went to the tow vehicle connector. Take them off before something gets shorted out. Make sure all your lights and brakes work on the rig. Verify that you have a charge line from TV.
3) The fuses look to protect the trailer wiring from the TV. It may not be needed if everything is wired around it and works.
4) looks like previous owner as tapped of the converter for something. The converter power needs to get verified. Grey wires should be 120 volt feed on one side and the grey on other should go to the 12 volt DC fuse panel. You may need to trace them out to be sure. There should be a wiring diagram for the converter inside the cover for the wire connections. The black and white wires under the fuse block photo that goes through the floor should be the ones to the battery.
5) receptacles are powered from shore power only.