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Need a battery in your TT for your tail lights to work?

2lazy4U
Explorer
Explorer
I have a feeling this is a dumb Q, but so be it. I have a bad battery in my TT, and the taillights/blinkers etc. don't work. I removed the battery, but the lights still don't work when plugged into my 7 pin car connector with the car on. My car lights all work fine.

Should the lights work directly from my car's 7-pin plug even w/o a battery in the TT, and I therefore have two separate issues? Thanks.
15 REPLIES 15

Mark_and_Linda
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the follow up on your problem...don't jump to conclusions, check the fuse. If mine does this...I will surely check the easy thing first.
Mark

2lazy4U
Explorer
Explorer
Aha - it was a blown fuse. Thanks everyone, I learned a lot here.

thomasmnile
Explorer
Explorer
bigrigfixer wrote:
Have you checked the fuses in your truck yet?



X2. First and easiest thing to check. If blown replaced and blown again, the detective work with the multi-meter begins searching for the 'why'.................

2lazy4U
Explorer
Explorer
My trailer weighs 1500# and my truck is rated to tow 5000# and weighs 2 tons. But I'm selling the trailer anyway, so won't be pulling it, just want to get it all operational. It all worked fine when I parked it, so I suspect it's in my truck, as I have a small cargo trailer and the lights in it are suddenly not working also. Thanks, y'all.

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
2lazy4U wrote:
Yes, I'm getting a new battery ASAP, though Colorado state law says you don't need brakes if your trailer weighs under 3000#. But I prefer to have brakes, having had to make a couple of quick stops in the past, which wouldn't have turned out so good w/o brakes. Thanks, all.


Quite likely true but we have no idea what you have since your signature and your profile are blank.

The law probably also states that if you do have brakes, required or not, all parts of the system must be functional and the breakaway is part of the system.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

2lazy4U
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, I'm getting a new battery ASAP, though Colorado state law says you don't need brakes if your trailer weighs under 3000#. But I prefer to have brakes, having had to make a couple of quick stops in the past, which wouldn't have turned out so good w/o brakes. Thanks, all.

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
Old-Biscuit wrote:
2lazy4U wrote:
Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to check fuses and all in the morning. I've been down lots of dusty roads the past month and dirt may be a contributing factor. After checking fuses, I'll spray it with contact cleaner and check ground wire continuity. Thanks again, everyone. This forum is great.


And hopefully buy/install a new fully charged battery in your TT!!

Federal Law requires a battery to provide FULL 12V DC Voltage to trailer electric brakes for at least 15 minutes in the event trailer should become disconnected from tow vehicles umbilical cord (brake controller input)


I second this, Please insure that your breakaway braking system is functional with a good battery. It is the law and a service to other road users.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
2lazy4U wrote:
Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to check fuses and all in the morning. I've been down lots of dusty roads the past month and dirt may be a contributing factor. After checking fuses, I'll spray it with contact cleaner and check ground wire continuity. Thanks again, everyone. This forum is great.


And hopefully buy/install a new fully charged battery in your TT!!

Federal Law requires a battery to provide FULL 12V DC Voltage to trailer electric brakes for at least 15 minutes in the event trailer should become disconnected from tow vehicles umbilical cord (brake controller input)
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

2lazy4U
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to check fuses and all in the morning. I've been down lots of dusty roads the past month and dirt may be a contributing factor. After checking fuses, I'll spray it with contact cleaner and check ground wire continuity. Thanks again, everyone. This forum is great.

bigrigfixer
Explorer
Explorer
Have you checked the fuses in your truck yet?
2009 F150 XLT Supercrew
2016 Hideout 26BHSWE

dewey02
Explorer II
Explorer II
This is not an unusual circumstance in areas of the country that have bad winters. A lot of road grime and salt can get into the connector on your tow vehicle and cause bad contacts. I usually spray it down real well in the spring with electronic contact cleaner (and spray and brush the contact on the male end as well). This often takes care of the problem.

horton333
Explorer
Explorer
Start by checking the continuity of the ground line, it's the common one to all of the above.
......................................

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asullivan920
Explorer
Explorer
Your trailer lights are not connected to the battery and should work when the 7 pin is connected to your vehicle. But I believe you need a charged battery for your trailer brakes to work in the event of a brake away.
2017 Ram 3500 Laramie crew cab shortbed 6.7 Cummins
2013 Rubicon 1905 toy hauler

2lazy4U
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
2lazy4U wrote:
Should the lights work directly from my car's 7-pin plug even w/o a battery in the TT, and I therefore have two separate issues?


Yes to both ... your trailer battery, or lack thereof, has nothing to do with the trailer's running / brake lights.


Thanks, I was afraid of that.