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New brakes for '11 F350 PSD?

Orcusomega
Explorer
Explorer
Well, the TV is in need of new front brakes, so I was wondering if anyone had good experiences with aftermark pads and/rotors?

I tow my 35' TT pretty regularly, and believe an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure 🙂 Especially brakes!

Anyone have good/bad experiences? Ive used ceramic pads/vented rotors in cars but I'm not sure how that translates to SD trucks...

Thanks!
2013 Forest River Surveyor Select 305 SV
2011 F350 King Ranch 6.7 PSD
33 REPLIES 33

JamesBr
Explorer
Explorer
I have not tried the EBC yellow for truck, but I have used EBC yellow for cars. If its the same compound I will say you will love the performance of the pad, they really do step it up from OEM compounds. But if the truck compound is like the car compound you will NOT like the amount of dusting they create. I also found they wear out a lot faster. But they do not tear up the rotors, so on a car I was able to get two sets of pads to a rotor before they where worn below spec and needed replacement.

A friend uses the Hawk Superduty pad. It has great performance in the compound, no noticeable dusting over the OEM compound, but when they are cold they can squeal a bit. Once they warm up they never seem to have an issue. I been considering these or a step down to the Hawk LTS when I am due for pads probably around fall/winter timeframe before my big trip to FL.
2006 Ford F350 6.0
2014 Primetime Sanibel 3600
Enough other vehicles to not bother listing.

Previous RV: 2001 Monaco Knight

Garry_Gayle
Explorer
Explorer
How many miles did you get out of the original brake pads?

Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
Hi,

I don't know if I would want brake pads that grip better than the stock ones. Why? Better gripping probably will mean increased heat. That is not a problem with a 3,000 - 4,000 pound car, it can go from 70 MPH to 0 in a few dozen feet, and not need to apply the brake pads more than 8 seconds in the process. So the rotors can not really heat up that much in the process of stopping a car.

As you know, stopping a trailer on a long decent is another matter, and engine braking is the best way to prevent brake wear and abuse, including overheating. Having a brake pad that can grip the rotor better, and thus slow you quickly might be OK, in that you will not need to apply the brakes more than a few seconds to scrub off a lot of speed, and then have a longer time without the brakes applied to allow cooling, yet I don't know - keep thinking about the stronger brakes heating up the rotors to much!

I would want a quality brake pad, and make sure I was not getting a cheap fake pad.

I do know that Ford sells the brake fluid with the highest "Wet" boiling point, and the price is reasonable, at the local Ford dealer. Buy the stuff rated for the 24,000 GVWR motorhomes, it will have a wet boiling point about 50F warmer than the other brake fluids.

Good luck on your decision.

Fred.
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brulaz
Explorer
Explorer
My understanding is that ceramic pads are nice and clean but for maximum braking you want something different.

I've been looking at EBC YellowStuff.

And you can get vented rotors as well ...
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
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2016 Ram 2500 4x4 RgCab CTD,2507# payload,10.8 mpgUS tow