Newbie with electrical conversion issues

[gentleman5926]

I am not a RV'er per se. I am having to move to a spot with only a falling apart 19' Prowler. 1) roof falling in, wet throughout. 2) Will be stationary for years connected to normal 'House Power'.
I am figuring that the converter is most likely ruined due to water intrusion throughout the trailer... I am going to have to strip down entire trailer and rebuild as I can afford it meanwhile living in a tent there.
I am a single guy with just a puppy, so don't need a lot of luxuries. I plan on running a window unit a/c during Summer, a (SMALL) space heater in Winter when needed, a new TV, a Hot Plate/Griddle, and small hot water heater (of course, only one big item at a time most likely).
I want to replace all the rusted gas lines/gas systems with some basic 120v items, but guess the Hot Water Heater (turned on as needed)would be biggest draw.. Does anyone have any experience with such a plan and give advice for problems I may run into? Suggestions for total roof replacement?

[westend]

You could contact the mfg for prints but many either don't have them or won't share. What you'll encounter is a conventional platform frame schedule. The floor and deck are installed first, the 1 x 2 wall frame is attached, and then the roof joists/trusses are attached. Most of mine was 16" OC but variance is done for window and door openings.

[gentleman5926]

Hi everyone. Thanks for all the input and ideas. 1) we already have a canopy to put over the TT, just waiting to get it in final position first. 2) I have located a new 6 gallon 120v water heater for $170 that is about right size to fit in that small spot where the original is.
3) I can't be 'hardwired' in to the external power panel, because the TT has to be 'roadworthy' so I plan on using some form of Pedestal-to-TT connecting cord for that. 4) Already have the 30A receptacle box, conduit for underground feed. 5) I plan on resealing everything with NP-1 adhesive caulking, lasts FOREVER and what you put together will NOT come apart, stays elastic and doesn't shrink/dry out. It is about 6 dollars a tube though so will only use it sparingly where needed. 6) I already have a support system in place under the doubled up new tarp I have on it now.

I have a plan for mold remediation, though I will not share it here so others will not attempt it. LOL Going to use my Marine Corps HazMat training on this one!! haha
Does anyone know if I can find the blueprints for this particular trailer or info on dimensions of stud work, roof rafters, floor joists, etc? I will see them when I open it up, but want a little head start. 🙂

[rockhillmanor]

gentleman5926 wrote:
It is free rent to live on the property (has a water hookup and sewer to hook to),

working on code inspection for power connection.

I suggest you hold on to your money and wait until the county inspector decides whether they will provide power to that trailer.

Reality is your trailer may NOT pass code for a power connection. Most are now insisting the trailer be in safe livable condition BEFORE they hook up power. Catch 22 for you. The trailer does look nice enough to warrant fixing up though!

[PapPappy]

As Westend said, you've got something that can be worked on.

I realize thatyou have little money, so the thoughts of looking for a better trailer just don't work for you....but I think you can get this one working for about a couple of grand...maybe less, if you find that the appliances are in workable condition.
I also agree that you should try and see if you can get the stuff you have to work. At the worst, you would be replacing things, but at the best, you will save yourself some money and time.

The separate water-heater system is probably a good idea, since you have no plans to move the trailer, and it would be less expensive (even with the little insulated shelter) than an RV water heater.

If your friend is paying for the electric used, and doesn't mind, yes, I'd put in electric heat....since the LP expense would be coming out of your pocket, and would be less efficient....this is why most folks look to hook up shore power at the CGs.

Get it cleaned out. You might want to see about investing in one of those tarp shelters that Harbor Freight has, to cover the trailer...or maybe just string a line between two trees and tent the trailer (putting at tarp on the roof won't do a whole lot, as is seen with the previous tarp in the bedroom:S) If you can keep the tarp up off the roof, it will also protect the TV antenna and A/C unit (which may work??)

I don't see a real reason for having a separate line for each side of the trailer....though a circuit for the A/C and electric heater (you won't use them both at same time), and one for the lighting/outlets should be enough....maybe one for the microwave?

Of course, a new mattress will be in order, as will probably be carpets, and flooring, if they sat and soaked very long.

Yes, we love pictures, so keep them coming....
You can start a thread on your repairs.....we'd all be more than happy to toss in our thoughts and ideas.:B (I was going to "say two cents", but money is tight!!:B)

[westend]

Hi Gent,
I think what you have there is definitely better than what you have described. Yes, the roof is shot in the back, probably from leaks and water pooling back there but the few inside pictures show that a lot is salvageable. You have a roof AC and unless there was a tree strike or someone burnt up the compressor, it may work. If not, like you said, a window AC or two is not a huge expense.

I'd suggest to at least try the water heater, the fridge, the stove, and the furnace before just discarding them. A full bottle of propane and a good battery is all that's necessary. If the cast iron main pipe is rusty or broken, iron pipe is still inexpensive. You can also connect the propane with a regulator and hose directly to the appliances for testing.

The electrical may seem like as big challenge but to me, was one of the easiest parts of the rebuild. I decided early on to replace all of the wiring and to upgrade to a 50 amp service. The cost between 30 amp and 50 amp service is negligible. the major costs being a shore inlet connection and the cord. If the trailer is never going to be moved, you can diminish that cost by direct wiring to the trailer's load center. I bought a new 70 amp load center, on sale w/breakers, for $40, IIRC. I did buy so,e additional breakers. It may be that your electrical system is all working. In that case, keep what you have and, if needed, string out another 20 amp extension cord so you have plenty of power.

The 12 V system may also work but, if not, you're going to have some sort of battery for moving the trailer and a battery charger will get you by for awhile.

I think you have the bones of a pretty nice trailer there. The nice thing about rebuilding is that you can arrange things for your own use and it's not Gospel that you have to keep any or all of it the way it was originally built.

Good luck and keep the pictures coming, we all like the pictures.

[Golden_HVAC]

I agree that starting out with a tarp on the roof is a good idea. It seems like you would also be better off starting out with a better trailer. One with a working water heater, shower, roof with small leaks, and no dry rot in the walls. You can be looking at mold issues with this RV.

You probably will need to place some cardboard or something on the roof first, before the tarp, to keep the tarp from getting torn.

Good luck!

Fred.

[Timtation]

Are you sure you would not be better off starting over with a different trailer? Sweat equity is not very valuable in rvs and cost escalates quickly when fixing.

[gentleman5926]

It is free rent to live on the property (has a water hookup and sewer to hook to), working on code inspection for power connection. I live off of very small money, but have a friend who will help me with expenses to get it livable thankfully.
I live in South Mississippi, so Winters will not be TOO bad usually. @ Westend: Thank you for the comments, very nice to be here in a helpful place!!
The LP system has hardlines ran along the framework, and they are in pretty bad shape. I will know more when I get into it's guts. I am thinking of the Dorm Fridge to replace the old one. The unit is not going to be moved anytime in the near future, if EVER. The owners have given me the permission to do what I want with it to make it livable.
My idea is that I want to run three breakers, one for left side of TT, one for right side of TT, and another for the hot water heater (most likely outside in a side shed with insulation. I have plenty of time to do this a little bit each month. Inside has to be treated for mold after tearing out the inside walls, to make sure it is not an air hazard. The images are HERE

[PapPappy]

You may want to consider tossing a tarp over the roof, while you work or live inside, until you can get the roof finished.

I also agree that you should consider keeping the LP appliances, if they work....and even consider having them repaired/cleaned, as it would still be less expensive than new appliances.
You will want the water heater first.....as you can cook on a grill or a microwave. The lighting will be 12VDC, so you want the converter working for that, though you can get away with just hooking up a new battery and a battery charger (charging every few days, as needed) until you have the money to invest in a inverter/converter for the unit.

If you have no intentions of moving the unit, you might want to just put in some 110VAC lights, and forget about the 12VDC.....but, if you want to sell it later on, you'll want it to be a Travel Trailer, and more than likely, most of the 12VDC stuff should be OK. Also, things like the water pump, and alarms are 12VDC, so you probably should keep that system intact.:)

You didn't mention where you live, so I don't know if your water lines would have been effected by winter freezing, so that is something you will want to check also. The water heater may also be split, or at the least, have bad connections.
I would get a water line fitting that you can hook an air-line to (you can get them at Walmart in the RV section), and have someone hook up about 40 psi air to the system, and listen for leaks.....if you hear air, you would see water if the water was connected. Air is less damaging:B

The small A/C unit is something that a lot of people have done. You may also want to get a Dorm fridge, which would be 110VAC, but easier to use than the LP units, and chances are, your unit is probably shot anyway.

Power wise, you are looking at having at least 30A service to your trailer, if you are going to use the original shore connection plug. Please be aware that this is NOT the same plug that the clothes dryer plugs into. This needs a 30A 110VAC outlet....especially if you are going to have A/C and a microwave. If you were to go with an electric water heater,you might have to run a second power source for it, as most RVs don't have the electric heaters.

As mentioned, there is a plethora of information on this forum, and lots of folks with wonderful information and the willingness to help you.

I would suggest pictures....we love pictures...and it gives folks an idea of what you are trying to tackle. Some may say that it's not worth your time or money, depending on the age of the trailer, and the condition.....you may just be sinking money into a black hole!:(

Good luck

[westend]

I rebuilt mine from a lot of water damage. The rebuild thread is linked in my signature line. The framing part was easy. It will also be relatively easy to resheet the roof and apply a new roof surface, there are more than a few on the Forum that have done it.

I'd suggest to keep the propane system as water heating, cooking, and a heat source operate well with propane. You will put a heck of a lot more money into new 120V appliances than repairing propane lines.

I would check the operation of the converter and battery before dismissing them. You would at least have lights when they are functional. You'll need functional 12V power to move the trailer.

Some searching on the Forums will turn up the details of doing just about any repair you will encounter.