“NOOB” questions about how TC electronics work?

[SuaveGato]

Hello,
I have a “new to me” Arctic fox TC and I am trying to learn, figure out, wrap my brain around how all of the electric systems work? If anyone can please confirm, deny and or add to my synopsis below that would be great, thank you.

The TC has the following:
• Master power auto switch
• Shore power
• Generator
• Dual 12V DC batteries
• Solar panel on roof
• Battery cut off switch
• Inverter

SHORE POWER
I assume the auto switch detects shore power and makes it primary, powering all of the appliances, 110V outlets, etc. Does this also charge the 12V batteries? If so, then I assume I have on board battery charger somewhere? Also assume it shuts off or down to a trickle charge when the batteries are full?

GENERATOR
I assume when running the generator and NOT on shore power, the auto switch then makes the generator primary powering all of the appliances, 110V outlets, etc. Does this also charge the 12V batteries? I assume it does the same thing that shore power does, just from a different source, correct? (Generac 00941-1. 3400W)

DUAL 12V DC BATTERIES / SOLAR PANEL ON ROOF
I assume I have an onboard charger for the batteries, right? Also assume it will shut off or down to a trickle when the batteries are full? Will the running truck charge the batteries? Will the solar panel charge them? If so, how? Does the solar run into the charger? Or through an inverter and then the charger? Or straight into the batteries?

BATTERY CUT OFF SWITCH
What does this switch do? Completely isolate the batteries to prevent draining I assume? But, will that also prevent charging them? I.E. can I shut off that switch and keep them charged or does that switch prevent any charging?

INVERTER
I have an inverter n one of my cubby’s. What does it power? The fridge is 3 way, (propane, AC & DC) so when on DC is it really consuming AC through the inverter? There is one 110V power outlet in the inverter compartment cubby that it appears the fridge is plugged in to. So, is that outlet the ONLY one that is 110V HOT, when on the batteries / inverter or should all of my 110V outlets in the whole TC be hot?

Also, how do the lights in the TC work? I.E. are they 12V or 110V? If 12V, do they just run off of the batteries, even when on shore power? Or through a transformer perhaps?

I know this is a LOT of questions but I like to know how stuff works before going out and depending on it and to be able to fix it etc.

Thanks,
biGjOhn

[Reddog1]

If you have "0", you have obviously checked them. I was not sure you read the PM from bigfootford, apparently you did.

[SuaveGato]

Hello Wayne,
it says I have "0" new private messages...? I have a bunch from a 2 weeks ago but nothing new since then? I've read / responded to all of them from 2 weeks ago. Thanks.

[Reddog1]

At the top right of your screen, you will see verbiage that says "Private Messages:". If it is in red, you have Private messages. You left click on "Private Messages:".

Wayne

[SuaveGato]

Reddog1 wrote:
Did you check your PMs?

Wayne

Hello Wayne,
yes I have, but not sure which one(s) specifically you are referring too?

Thanks,

[Reddog1]

Did you check your PMs?

Wayne

[SuaveGato]

Hello again all,
so i got some time to do some things and have made some headway... I pulled my batteries and found one nearly empty and one just a bit low. In process of seeing if I can re-vive the one with some distilled H2O etc. if not, I'll buy a replacement. Will also be looking into adding one of the converters that will keep my batteries charged PROPERLY, and provide me with an inverter source of power too. Right now, the only inverter I have is for the generator but it is stand alone and ONLY used while the Gen is running, so it would be nice to have an inverter that ran off of the batteries for some simple short term applications etc.

Also found something interesting... I figured out why my batteries would go dead when not plugged into shore power for extd. periods of time, EVEN THOUGH I HAVE SOLAR! Factory solar installed FROM THE DEALER but they didn't put in a solar control module! there are two wires coming from the solar panel, taped to two wires that feed to the batteries but they are NOT connected and there is no solar module! DUH! So looks like I'll be buying and adding one of those as well!

Thanks for all of the help. Will now be researching solar modules and "converters"...

[n7bsn]

SuaveGato wrote:
Thanks guys. Sounds like the DC mode is pretty much worthless then? Why do they even have it then?

Thanks

Safety. Plus there are three-ways that AUTO-SWITCH.
IF AC is available they run on AC.
If the engine is running (they bring an extra wire down on MHs to sense this) they run on DC
Otherwise they run on propane.

[SuaveGato]

Thanks guys. Sounds like the DC mode is pretty much worthless then? Why do they even have it then?

Thanks

[bigfootford]

SuaveGato wrote:

Reddog1 wrote:

SuaveGato wrote:
... Since my fridge is in fact a true 3 way, I think just to save propane I will travel in DC mode, letting the truck alternator run the fridge (through the batteries) then switch to LP or Shore when I get to where I'm going.

Certainly an option. Please post when you fail to switch to LP, and discover your truck battery is dead.

Wayne

OH NO! I def. don't want to do that! I "think" I have an isolator though that would keep the camper from draining the truck batteries right? But still allow the truck to charge them. Isn't that what an isolator does?

Check your PM's.


Jim

[Reddog1]

I will leave that to the Ford owners to answer, I do not know how you are wired.

For me, it is very basic, run the fridge on propane. I will add, the fridge is more efficient on propane than 120-volts or 12-volts. But to be fair, if the fridge is cool, you can easily go 10 hours with the fridge off. In theory, the truck has the ability to run the fridge. The catch is, one oops, and you can kill the truck battery. Been there and done that, learned it is not necessary.

[SuaveGato]

Reddog1 wrote:

SuaveGato wrote:
... Since my fridge is in fact a true 3 way, I think just to save propane I will travel in DC mode, letting the truck alternator run the fridge (through the batteries) then switch to LP or Shore when I get to where I'm going.

Certainly an option. Please post when you fail to switch to LP, and discover your truck battery is dead.

Wayne

OH NO! I def. don't want to do that! I "think" I have an isolator though that would keep the camper from draining the truck batteries right? But still allow the truck to charge them. Isn't that what an isolator does?

[Reddog1]

SuaveGato wrote:
... Since my fridge is in fact a true 3 way, I think just to save propane I will travel in DC mode, letting the truck alternator run the fridge (through the batteries) then switch to LP or Shore when I get to where I'm going.

Certainly an option. Please post when you fail to switch to LP, and discover your truck battery is dead.

Wayne

[AnEv942]

Solar, just need to verify so you know whether or not master cut off also kills solar-again I wouldnt think so but easy enough to check

The referred to inverter is actually your converter, make sense now. Yep pretty standard..does not have an off/on switch, no real reason to. (earlier was referring to the solar panle controller). The distribution point (breaker/fuse box) should have a breaker for the converter BUT if working around it unplug camper.
So your either plugged in, or generator running, converter is also charger. Good to go.

..brings me to your other post concerning your generator. But that should remain in that thread so were not cross talking.

Nice thing about the HF meter-it doesnt hurt when you blow it up-just get another till you get a good one. Not all that accurate but for basic trouble shooting/ & learning to use, work fine. Have fun

[SuaveGato]

THANK YOU for even more great info.! I will address in Red below

AnEv942 wrote:
The solar, unless its factory installed and someone may know more definitively how its wired (though no telling what PO might have done)
no need to pull battery(s) to check. No idea what your controller has, meter or just lights. Disconnect shore, check battery voltage. Run a fan some lights etc for a while. Solar should go to charge mode. I would check voltage out put of controller, then check at battery-should see same voltage, turn off battery cut-off, voltage should drop to standing battery voltage (not show charge input) if solar is wired thru cut off. As most controllers have an off switch-I dont know why panels would be thru main cut off though. Sounds like a plan! I'll check it out. P.S. the sales invoice for the unit says "Pre-wired" for solar. and the dealer installed the panel at purchase. So it sounds like the solar goes into it's own "controller" / voltage regulator deal and then is hard wired straight into the batteries, right? So even with the shut off switch in OFF, the solar would still keep the batteries topped off?

As to the 3way refer, and the inverter Im not quite clear. It sounds as though the inverter (12v DC to 110 AC) is wired to run the refer AC receptacle? Not common but some folks do. If thats the case the refer would be set to AC. Also, if refer is plugged into receptacle thats powered by inverter means even on shore or generator, the inverter needs to be on, unless theres another actual AC receptacle.
I think I screwed up on this. What I "thought" was an inverter now appears to be my "master power box"? It is called "Inteli Power 9100" model PD9140A I don't see any on/off switch on it though? So now I think I realize I don't have an inverter at all! I'm either shore power, 12V DC or generator? Is this pretty standard?

To use on directly on 12v DC the inverter wouldn't be used. If refer is set to DC it would be drawing directly off the battery(s) not thru inverter. Your 3663 will draw a little over 17amps in DC mode. Most trucks wont supply that and still charge batteries, So even driving its slowly drawing down batteries. You have solar input helping-but it takes a lot of diligence to use the DC mode in factory (truck charge) configuration. IE turning OFF refer when stopped-period even a few minutes. Turning off least an hour or so before arriving destination allowing battery(s) to charge etc. That said, assuming you precool the refer before a trip as already mentioned it will stay cold(ish) minimum for several hours.

All good points and makes total sense, thank you! Yes I do "pre-cool" so as long as it's a short trip (no stops) and I'm going to a place with shore power, looks like I can just put on DC til I get there, or run the LP or just close it up and leave it off. Good options, thanks!

Because of your curiosity and 'want to know' I recommend buying (or find a Harbor Freight "free" coupon for their $5 one) an inexpensive digital multi meter if you dont have one. Set to 20+ on the DC volt scale it will tell you exactly what you want to know on the 12v circuits. Test light would only tell you power present not if 12.2v and dropping or 13.6 & rising.
Set to 200+ on the ACv scale you can test the receptacles/inverter output-though for most all you want to know if power present and not looking at actual voltage so a AC test light (or portable power tool etc) would be sufficient on the AC stuff.
Hahaha, I JUST got that exact one, FOR FREE, from Harbor freight! Thanks again, I will run through some of these checks!

THANKS!