Dec-12-2017 06:44 PM
Dec-16-2017 01:40 PM
whizbang wrote:
...so what was the out come??
I agree with all the advice so far.
FYI --- I had an odd problem one time. A BAD fuse looked okay when held up to the light, and tested okay with an Ohm meter. It just failed in circuit under load. A new fuse did the trick. Odd. Very odd. Very, very odd. This was about 6 years ago. I hadn't seen this problem before or since. Did I mention this was odd?
Dec-15-2017 06:59 AM
Dec-15-2017 06:41 AM
Dec-13-2017 06:55 PM
D.E.Bishop wrote:A test light doesn't' tell the whole story . A test light will light with very low voltage . If there is too much residence in the fuse connection or at the appliance it may not operate . Check the volts on both sides of the fuse .JShiv wrote:
They are labeled, but perhaps incorrectly. I'll check resistance tomorrow. It almost has to be a fuse, since all the A/V is out and everything else is OK. I have some known good fuses on hand as well.
If you're going to the extreme of pulling and and checking the fuse with a meter, why not just use a test light and check both sides of the fuse for power? Wouldn't that be satisfactory and simpler than pulling all the fuses checking the continuity and then reinstalling them?
Dec-13-2017 05:23 PM
Dec-13-2017 08:57 AM
hedge wrote:
easiest way to test a fuse is to test for continuity across the fuse with a mm, fuses have holes in the top to allow this without removing them.
Dec-13-2017 08:51 AM
Dec-13-2017 08:06 AM
Dec-13-2017 07:34 AM
Dec-13-2017 04:30 AM
Dec-12-2017 08:31 PM
JShiv wrote:
They are labeled, but perhaps incorrectly. I'll check resistance tomorrow. It almost has to be a fuse, since all the A/V is out and everything else is OK. I have some known good fuses on hand as well.
Dec-12-2017 07:55 PM
Dec-12-2017 07:30 PM
Dec-12-2017 07:25 PM