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Power loss

JShiv
Explorer
Explorer
2012 Lance 950S with no power to the TV, antenna, or radio/CD player. Everything else works. All fuses seem to be good, although I am going to replace them tomorrow to be sure. I replaced the broken antenna (don't ask) but don't think I interrupted any power. Any ideas? BTW, the problem is the same whether on battery or shore power.
TIA
J Shiv
18 REPLIES 18

JShiv
Explorer
Explorer
whizbang wrote:
...so what was the out come??

I agree with all the advice so far.

FYI --- I had an odd problem one time. A BAD fuse looked okay when held up to the light, and tested okay with an Ohm meter. It just failed in circuit under load. A new fuse did the trick. Odd. Very odd. Very, very odd. This was about 6 years ago. I hadn't seen this problem before or since. Did I mention this was odd?


You prompted me to get a new fuse, even though the old one tested OK with the meter. Sure enough - under load - it was bad. The new one fixed it! Sometimes I need to remember to start with the simplest solution first. Fifteen lashes with a dead snake - maybe I'll remember next time.
Thanks again to you all. (Y'all here!)

Bedlam
Moderator
Moderator
Your problem was a cracked fuse link. As soon as you applied power, it created enough heat to break the connection (similar to how a Christmas light flasher bulb works).

I had rash of bad glass fuses at one point. They would separate inside at the metal end and give no indication that they failed. The circuits were fine, but the actual fuses were failing. I spent a frustrating month troubleshooting before I found the cause and the simple solution.

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whizbang
Explorer II
Explorer II
...so what was the out come??

I agree with all the advice so far.

FYI --- I had an odd problem one time. A BAD fuse looked okay when held up to the light, and tested okay with an Ohm meter. It just failed in circuit under load. A new fuse did the trick. Odd. Very odd. Very, very odd. This was about 6 years ago. I hadn't seen this problem before or since. Did I mention this was odd?
Whizbang
2002 Winnebago Minnie
http://www.raincityhome.com/RAWH/index.htm

ticki2
Explorer
Explorer
D.E.Bishop wrote:
JShiv wrote:
They are labeled, but perhaps incorrectly. I'll check resistance tomorrow. It almost has to be a fuse, since all the A/V is out and everything else is OK. I have some known good fuses on hand as well.


If you're going to the extreme of pulling and and checking the fuse with a meter, why not just use a test light and check both sides of the fuse for power? Wouldn't that be satisfactory and simpler than pulling all the fuses checking the continuity and then reinstalling them?
A test light doesn't' tell the whole story . A test light will light with very low voltage . If there is too much residence in the fuse connection or at the appliance it may not operate . Check the volts on both sides of the fuse .
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JShiv
Explorer
Explorer
All good advice, and thanks much. I didn't get to it today, but will tomorrow and will report (or ask for more advice LOL).

work2much
Explorer
Explorer
hedge wrote:
easiest way to test a fuse is to test for continuity across the fuse with a mm, fuses have holes in the top to allow this without removing them.


It is best to de-energize the circuit if you are going to use the ohm setting for continuity. If the circuits are energized you can test for voltage the same way without concern for damaging the multi-meter.
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hedge
Explorer
Explorer
easiest way to test a fuse is to test for continuity across the fuse with a mm, fuses have holes in the top to allow this without removing them.
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AnEv942
Nomad
Nomad
Had to look-TV, radio (and a phone jack)indeed are on a separate fuse,
huh, according to the schematic #7 15a fuse.

If you just replaced antenna, possibly it was on (powered antenna)and accidentally grounded during install. Or cause of ant. replacement pulled on cable and its shorted internally.
If fuse blown, unscrew the coax leading to antenna, & pull power wire at back of switch prior to inserting new. If fuse doesn't blow, reattach power lead to switch. If it doesn't blow reattach coax. If it doesn't blow-yer good. If fuse blows again you've a short Assuming Winegard..
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SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
Are all your physical connections tight on the terminal strips. I had a couple screws loose on my old Lance (my wife says I have a screw loose too...lol) that I had to tighten up. I applied a drop of thread locker to each after tightening.

The do loosen up after a while.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

DWeikert
Explorer II
Explorer II
If you have multiple fuses of the same rating, a simple test would be to swap fuse locations and see if the trouble moves.
Dan
2008 Chevy D/A 2500HD ECSB
2010 Northstar 8.5 Adventurer

D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Explorer
JShiv wrote:
They are labeled, but perhaps incorrectly. I'll check resistance tomorrow. It almost has to be a fuse, since all the A/V is out and everything else is OK. I have some known good fuses on hand as well.


If you're going to the extreme of pulling and and checking the fuse with a meter, why not just use a test light and check both sides of the fuse for power? Wouldn't that be satisfactory and simpler than pulling all the fuses checking the continuity and then reinstalling them?
"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson

David Bishop
2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V
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time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
I always assume I did something wrong. So same here with something with the work done must have gotten crossed up. You can swap the suspect fuse with another circuit for testing.

JShiv
Explorer
Explorer
They are labeled, but perhaps incorrectly. I'll check resistance tomorrow. It almost has to be a fuse, since all the A/V is out and everything else is OK. I have some known good fuses on hand as well.

Bedlam
Moderator
Moderator
Put your meter on the resistance measurement scale to verify your fuses outside of the holder (there is no polarity when measuring your fuse). Is your fuse box labeled with function/destination of each fused line?

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