prodigy p3

[va_camper]

I just decided to replace my old Hopkins proportional brake controller with the p3 after reading all the good reviews. I also want to be better informed on what's happening electrically with my brakes. I have a twin axle 4 brake electric brake system on my 2010 Rockwood. I haven't installed the p3 yet, but was wondering what amperage(ballpark) should I expect to see if I manually fully engage the brakes? I realize it will depend on my tv battery voltage, wire resistance, etc, but I'm just looking for a norm of sorts I guess. Thanks.

[RCMAN46]

Bigbird65 wrote:

RCMAN46 wrote:
Anytime you buy a trailer new or used I recommend inspecting the brakes and bearings.

I was having problems with my new trailer and when I removed the brake drums I found three torn grease seals and grease every where.

I had to replace the brake assemblies as my dealer only wanted to clean the brake shoes and replace the seals.

Brakes are very important and if you are capable of doing the job I am positive you can do better than most dealers.

I really don't see how the grease seals split with grease everywhere unless they were EZ Lube type hubs and far too much grease was pumped in from the outside. I always grease the bearings by hand even if I have that system, which I do. I don't trust it to work right.

I suspect they were torn when installing the drums. Easy to do if you snag the spindle.

This was on a new trailer so it was done by who ever installed the drums during manufacture.

Yes they are EZ lube and like you I do not use the system and pack bearings by hand.

[Bigbird65]

RCMAN46 wrote:
Anytime you buy a trailer new or used I recommend inspecting the brakes and bearings.

I was having problems with my new trailer and when I removed the brake drums I found three torn grease seals and grease every where.

I had to replace the brake assemblies as my dealer only wanted to clean the brake shoes and replace the seals.

Brakes are very important and if you are capable of doing the job I am positive you can do better than most dealers.

I really don't see how the grease seals split with grease everywhere unless they were EZ Lube type hubs and far too much grease was pumped in from the outside. I always grease the bearings by hand even if I have that system, which I do. I don't trust it to work right.

[va_camper]

I can see where grease could be an issue. If I do indeed have to replace my seals and/or brake shoes, where would be a good place to order them from? I think mine are10x2.25. The axle tag says al-ko j40 4000 lbs.

[deltabravo]

RCMAN46 wrote:
Anytime you buy a trailer new or used I recommend inspecting the brakes and bearings.

I was having problems with my new trailer and when I removed the brake drums I found three torn grease seals and grease every where.

I had to replace the brake assemblies as my dealer only wanted to clean the brake shoes and replace the seals.

I had the same problem on a used trailer I bought.

Here's the details and some photos.

[westend]

Bigbird65 wrote:

westend wrote:
Amperage is dependent on the draw of the total of the brake magnets and associated wiring. Voltage to the brakes is controlled by the P3. Your battery condition will have little to do with brake controlling as the vehicle's alternator will be delivering power to the P3 and back to the trailer's brake system.

Tekonsha advises an initial voltage of 6 V and adjusting up or down from there. An improvement in electrical efficiency for the trailer's brake system can be had by wiring the trailer braking in a star configuration rather than a daisy chain, as most trailers are OEM wired. This helps to deliver more power to the brakes. An increase in wire size accompanying the star configuration will also help with maximum electrical efficiency.

Etrailer.com indicates that trailer brakes are wired in parallel(star).
Parallel wiring
Diagram

If trailer brakes were wired in series (daisy chain) as you indicate, it would only require one brake magnet coil to open up and all of the breaking would be lost.

Yes, parallel but crawl under your trailer and see what you have. Most trailers have one power wire that is led from the tongue, then from one brake set to another and down the chain. A star configuration uses one wire set per brake. The four power wires are terminated at a common power terminal close to the tongue. It is a better power configuration than the typical wiring installation.

[va_camper]

Yeah, I think the next step is to pull all 4 wheels and do a thorough inspection and see what I'm dealing with . The last thing I want is 33 feet of trailer pushing me through a red light. Or worse. Thanks for the input everybody.

[RCMAN46]

Anytime you buy a trailer new or used I recommend inspecting the brakes and bearings.

I was having problems with my new trailer and when I removed the brake drums I found three torn grease seals and grease every where.

I had to replace the brake assemblies as my dealer only wanted to clean the brake shoes and replace the seals.

Brakes are very important and if you are capable of doing the job I am positive you can do better than most dealers.

[Bigbird65]

Since you bought your Rookwood have you removed each brake drum and inspected the brakes and bearings? Greasing or packing the bearings is a must since it is a 5 year old trailer unless you know they were packed just before you got it. You can either have all of this done or do it yourself. If you choose to do it yourself then you can Google "Packing RV trailer bearings" and "Adjusting RV trailer brakes" if you haven't done that before. I do all that kind of work myself because I trust me.

I have the Tekonsha P3 and am very pleased with it. Maybe one reason it doesn't slide the tires is because your newest trailer is a heavier trailer than your last one. I make it a point not to slide my trailer tires. You want enough braking on your trailer to be balanced with your tow vehicle for good controlled stops.

Edit: One more thing I thought of is to check the electric braking action. With the wheel jacked up and the trailer cable connected to the TV, spin the wheel to check for easy turning. Now have someone press the brake pedel while you check to see that the wheel is locked.
Do this check for all 4 wheels. Keep safety upper most in your mind while doing this.

[va_camper]

Thanks everyone. The main reason I traded up to the p3 (other than I really just wanted one), was due to the fact that when we bought our 2010 model 33' Rockwood tt used last spring, I would go through the brake setup adjustment per my current proportional brake controller but never could get it setup right. It said the same thing the p3 instuctions say I believe. Which is to initially set the controller to a certain power, manually fully engage the brakes at 25 mph, and if the brakes lock, back off the setting. If not, increase the setting, and so forth. Anyway, my old 25' tt would lock the wheels just like the instructions stated. My Rockwood won't even at full power. I'm thinking l have tt brake issues.

[Bigbird65]

westend wrote:
Amperage is dependent on the draw of the total of the brake magnets and associated wiring. Voltage to the brakes is controlled by the P3. Your battery condition will have little to do with brake controlling as the vehicle's alternator will be delivering power to the P3 and back to the trailer's brake system.

Tekonsha advises an initial voltage of 6 V and adjusting up or down from there. An improvement in electrical efficiency for the trailer's brake system can be had by wiring the trailer braking in a star configuration rather than a daisy chain, as most trailers are OEM wired. This helps to deliver more power to the brakes. An increase in wire size accompanying the star configuration will also help with maximum electrical efficiency.

Etrailer.com indicates that trailer brakes are wired in parallel(star).
Parallel wiring
Diagram

If trailer brakes were wired in series (daisy chain) as you indicate, it would only require one brake magnet coil to open up and all of the breaking would be lost.

[westend]

Amperage is dependent on the draw of the total of the brake magnets and associated wiring. Voltage to the brakes is controlled by the P3. Your battery condition will have little to do with brake controlling as the vehicle's alternator will be delivering power to the P3 and back to the trailer's brake system.

Tekonsha advises an initial voltage of 6 V and adjusting up or down from there. An improvement in electrical efficiency for the trailer's brake system can be had by wiring the trailer braking in a star configuration rather than a daisy chain, as most trailers are OEM wired. This helps to deliver more power to the brakes. An increase in wire size accompanying the star configuration will also help with maximum electrical efficiency.

[RCMAN46]

With my two axle trailer which is 4 brakes I see about 1 amp per volt.

That is if the P3 is putting out 7 volts then with it in diagnostic mode you should see about 7 amps.

7amps is where my controller is set so full manual travel gives me 7 volts and about 7 amps.

Each morning before I leave I put it in diagnostic mode and check the amperage. 7 amps I am good to go.

[RollandB]

I have a P3 and will see a variety of readings depending on what pressure Im applying. Generally from under 2 to around 8'. I have to admit most of the time when I'm braking I don't have my eyes on the controller but what's in front of me. I've had it installed about 2 years and am very happy with it.

[kaydeejay]

Full power should be around 3 amps per brake.
It will be less if your wiring drops volts en-route.