Proper outside storage

[Kostyan]

I am storing my camper outside year round and noticed it excess humidity levels forming inside in warmer months. It is being parked on asphalt driveway but surrounded by heavily wooded area.

Running dehumidifier did not go to well because could not figure out how to run a discharge house to let condensate outside without cutting a hole in a camper lol


Also thinking of moving camper to a different area on my lot presently grassy area that will
Get a couple of truckloads of crushed stone or pebbles over if.

So the challenge is to protect the inside as well as the outside / underbody from excess humidity and elements.

Any input is appreciated.

[Gdetrailer]

valhalla360 wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
Do one better bypass the tank altogether.

Buy a garden hose bib valve like for on the side of a building, install the hose bib right through a wall to the outside.

Sure but I suggested including the tank as the OP indicated, he didn't have an existing route for the hose and didn't want to cut holes in the wall.

:R

Yes, OP indicated they didn't "want" to, but, in reality all other methods are a feeble attempt to get around the direct route and those work arounds all have potential pitfalls.

In my neck of the woods, I would not want to have water draining into any of my tanks which can be easily forgotten or missed when it comes time to winterize.

OP can buy a hose bib that looks like this..



or this..



Which has a mounting flange on the outside, one can easily drill a half inch hole, and run the pipe through the wall and use some acrylic latex caulking to seal the flange..

Alternately, one can drill through the floor and mount the same hose bib on the underside of the trailer and no harm to the trailer wall. This is the same basic principle of the water lines low drain points which also go through the floor and drain the water out of the lines for winter.

Through the floor drain could be left or removed and if removed a simple gob of caulking plugs the hole and no harm or fault to the side walls. Going through the floor, they could just run a piece of flexible plastic pipe through the floor and to the dehumidifier.

If you have ever run a dehumidifier for any substantial length of time, you would understand why running the condensate through your RV plumbing is not a good idea..

Every single dehumidifier I have ever had gets a slimy stringy build up in the condensate.. Makes a mess, builds up until you have a plugged line somewhere or the drain internally in the dehumdifier. Would not want to have that slime build up in a holding tank. When that slime dries out, it hardens like a rock.

I have had a few dehumidifiers with built in pumps (not because I wanted it but because that was all that was available), the pumps are a failure point, they too fall victim to that slime and get gummmed up.. Those have cleaning routines that require you to clean the pump ..

My recommendation is to try opening the windows and let nature work it out. For my basement, not an option, opening the door and a few windows it has would just bring in outside moist air which then condenses on the cooler basement walls..

Dehumidifiers have their place in life (like a cool basement in the summer), not so much in a RV though, but if it makes you feel happy to run one, have at it.

[valhalla360]

Gdetrailer wrote:
Do one better bypass the tank altogether.

Buy a garden hose bib valve like for on the side of a building, install the hose bib right through a wall to the outside.

Sure but I suggested including the tank as the OP indicated, he didn't have an existing route for the hose and didn't want to cut holes in the wall.

[ktmrfs]

valhalla360 wrote:

spoon059 wrote:
And if the OP is concerned about pests flying up into the grey tank, he could leave it closed and just open it once or twice a season.

Don't make this mistake. A dehumidifier can generate gallons of water per day...wait a month or two, and it will have overflowed potentially rotting out the floor.

As someone else mentioned, opening a roof vent is you best bet, just get a cover, so it can be left open in the rain.

If you insist on using a dehumidifier, just get a cap with a hose connection and put a small sag in the hose. This will create a P-trap, so no bugs going into the tank...not that I would really care if they did as there is no route to the interior from the gray tank.

very good advice. We live in an area with moderate humidity and use a dehumidifier when camping when conditions warrant it's use. It usually will pull 6-8 gallons of water out the first day, then around 4 gallons/day afterwards. Could fill a typical grey tank in a week!

Now some of that moisture is coming from us and what we do in the camper, but in the winter I use the dehumidifier in our garage and consistently pull 5 gallons of water/day out of the air.

[fallsrider]

I park our TT over a natural area (tires are parked on large paving stones) under trees. Several years ago, I installed Camco roof vent covers over our two roof vents. I leave the roof vents fully open at all times while parked at home. We've never had moisture problems inside.

Good ventilation should negate any need for dehumidifying. But your climate may differ, I don't know.

[Gdetrailer]

valhalla360 wrote:

spoon059 wrote:
And if the OP is concerned about pests flying up into the grey tank, he could leave it closed and just open it once or twice a season.

Don't make this mistake. A dehumidifier can generate gallons of water per day...wait a month or two, and it will have overflowed potentially rotting out the floor.

As someone else mentioned, opening a roof vent is you best bet, just get a cover, so it can be left open in the rain.

If you insist on using a dehumidifier, just get a cap with a hose connection and put a small sag in the hose. This will create a P-trap, so no bugs going into the tank...not that I would really care if they did as there is no route to the interior from the gray tank.

Do one better bypass the tank altogether.

Buy a garden hose bib valve like for on the side of a building, install the hose bib right through a wall to the outside. On the inside connect your dehumidifier hose to the hose bib that runs through the wall. Now you can just open the hose bib and let it drain without needing to mess around with grey or black tanks and associated plumbing.

However, take my advice as a home owner blessed with a very old home with a damp basement, absolutely bypass the dehumidifier all together and just open the windows a slight crack.

Dehumidifiers are a real pain, they are cheaply made and they are insanely expensive. I am constantly battling the drain inside dehumidifiers and hose clogging. I am constantly having to give a shot of compressed air back into the dehumidifier pretty much once a month. Other wise when the hose or drain plugs off (which it does) it then drains into the bucket until bucket is full and if you don't constantly check the bucket the dehumidifier is nothing more than a $500 doorstop.

In the 30 yrs I have owned my sticks and bricks we have blown through several dozen Dehumifiers.. I had to replace it in the middle of Covid.. That one cost me $500 and lasted a whopping 2 months, Store wouldn't take back for exchange so I had to wit for manufacturer to send replacement..

Took two months to get that and it lasted a mere 6 months.. While I was waiting on replacement bought one through Amazon had it in two days.. After the replacement died, the Amazon one was put back online and bought another as a backup.. So now I have TWO dehumidifiers..

I should also mention that dehumidifiers burn a lot of energy, most of them will draw 5A-7A at 120V or about 840W.. Makes the electric bill go up..

These are the reasons why you need to avoid using one.. Save yourself a lot of headaches, open the windows just a crack.. Let nature work for you for free.

[valhalla360]

spoon059 wrote:
And if the OP is concerned about pests flying up into the grey tank, he could leave it closed and just open it once or twice a season.

Don't make this mistake. A dehumidifier can generate gallons of water per day...wait a month or two, and it will have overflowed potentially rotting out the floor.

As someone else mentioned, opening a roof vent is you best bet, just get a cover, so it can be left open in the rain.

If you insist on using a dehumidifier, just get a cap with a hose connection and put a small sag in the hose. This will create a P-trap, so no bugs going into the tank...not that I would really care if they did as there is no route to the interior from the gray tank.

[WinMinnie02]

Parked unit outside no covers except for tires exposed to sunlight. Leave roof vent crack open, run generator monthly with ac on during summer, winter remove excess snow off the roof. 20+ years no issues, replace caulk, clean it, and do maintenance DIY, easy.

[CarnationSailor]

You don't need to do anything other than provide ventilation. Our 5th was stored on grass in the damp Seattle area for many years with no problem.

[Lwiddis]

I agree with all comments regarding venting. Very important.

[prichardson]

Ventilation is the key. Roof vent open with cover and a window opened. All I have is slide windows so I made this to keep weather out.

[spoon059]

ktmrfs wrote:
run the dehumidifier discharge hose into the shower basin, leave the grey tank outside drain slightly open, problem solved.

And if the OP is concerned about pests flying up into the grey tank, he could leave it closed and just open it once or twice a season.

But I agree with another comment, I leave my roof vent open almost year round (has a vent cover to keep rain out) and leave one crank out window at least vented almost all year. I only close them in the spring when the pollen is ridiculous.

Our old camper (bought used) initially had a mildewy smell when it sat in storage. After we started keeping the roof and window vented open, the smell went away and never came back.

[eHoefler]

Run the A/C

[ktmrfs]

Kostyan wrote:
I am storing my camper outside year round and noticed it excess humidity levels forming inside in warmer months. It is being parked on asphalt driveway but surrounded by heavily wooded area.

Running dehumidifier did not go to well because could not figure out how to run a discharge house to let condensate outside without cutting a hole in a camper lol


Also thinking of moving camper to a different area on my lot presently grassy area that will
Get a couple of truckloads of crushed stone or pebbles over if.

So the challenge is to protect the inside as well as the outside / underbody from excess humidity and elements.

Any input is appreciated.

run the dehumidifier discharge hose into the shower basin, leave the grey tank outside drain slightly open, problem solved.

[Gdetrailer]

Concrete or asphalt would be the best to park it on as long as there is a "crown" or angle that allows water run off.

Dirt/gravel is a poor choice, moisture comes right up through the ground and gravel.. Lots of vehicles rot from the underside very quickly when parked on dirt/gravel and don't get moved often..

Your over thinking this, simply open a few windows slightly (even sliding windows can be opened slightly without fear of rain getting in) which allows the air inside the RV to be exchanged with the air outside the RV.. Inside of RV will not get any wetter or damper than the air outside..