Replacing toilet

[AnEv942]

Replacing a perfectly good Thetford toilet.

Few reasons-
Primary, original has hand valve at rear of toilet, Margarets having a hard time reaching back to flush. New one will be foot controlled.

Second is replacing the 15" height with an 18" tall. Both of us will find easier to use.
Thetford Aqua-Magic V Pedal Flush / High Profile
Which should also give more knee room. Its also a little deeper or longer front to back. Old one was almost square.
Third is I want to add a valve, just because, mostly to throttle water flow.
Lastly and motivation toilet is rocking? A lot- always has slightly but getting worse needs addressing. Not leaking at
floor or underneath but pulling to see whats going on. Replacing gasket seams might as well replace toilet, other than
cost a lot of benefits.

The perverbally can of worms. Decided while waiting for parts to arrive Id remove old toilet and clean up.

Lathered in silicone adhesive, I assume because wet bath. Gasket has dried out and toilet is pivoting on cured sealant
at bolts. Problem is sealant was applied up to gasket. New toilet 'may' set but gasket likely will not fit into the existing
dam of silicone.
I'm going to carefully try to cut sealant at flange edge and expose the top of flange to regain a flat surface. IF I can get
the silicone off enough I'll reapply some sealant when setting new gasket.
I can understand sealing flange but surprised that simple sealant used to accomplish. Makes it a one time deal?


And from there all turned to pooh. What I discovered as project just kept escalating is the hack job that has led to
replacing the toilet flange. In minimalist steps, what led to 10 minuet job gone bad.


After cleaning sealant discovered flange itself is warped all to heck. One of the screws was driven thru flange,
wont come out, to 'fix' 2 drywall screws were used. Toilets bolt boss is setting on them. Then noticed screw in front at
quite an angle-yep it also missed the wood. The right side, though no 'fixes', sets even higher at bolt. Went round an
round finally resigning myself that a new flange needed. Unfortunately mine is glued in (some use a screw on to pipe
flange).
Looking on line for options decided a 4x3 that goes into pipe instead of over pipe would allow me to cut off old flange
and reinstall easily.

Then I stumbled on this. WOW. I didn't know these were made. Slips inside of pipe and uses gasket. Simple, easier to
install, makes servicing easy but also allows movement between shower floor/toilet and top of black tank. Slip Joint!
So preceded to cut off old flange

Well there's the problem. Hole off center, screws on left missed wood.
Right side, screws were seriously over tightened, probably trying to keep toilet from rocking due to left side 'fix'.
Two middle screws mushroomed the wood and fiberglass raising flange at bolt almost 3/16".
2 outer ones pulling flange back down that warped it.
(Opps click save and hit post)


New flange set in pipe without gasket. Though I see a tube of sealant because wet bath this is sure a life saver.
(NOT changing out toilet past point of return...) Going to glue and screw a backer block on left side of hole even
though drilling pilot I can get into wood. Sand down raised right side, flange will be flat...
Awaiting toilet to arrive to 'start' working on it.

Just venting...
Sad part IMO, opening up and discovering this hack, is production workers pressed to point stuff like this happens-
this hack probably saved someone their job

[SidecarFlip]

Glad I can go in the woods, my wife cannot. It's her toilet, not mine...

[AnEv942]

I sure hope yours went easier than mine. Typically this might be an hourish job?...
Toilet arrived-setting on floor its a tad wider. We have a raised section of floor, positioning so toilet didn't hang off edge
meant I couldn't scootch it over as I hoped to cover more of the misplaced hole in floor.


Ended up gluing in dowels and redrilling floor. Also used some foam backer rod to hold sealant
(should have cut block arc a bit larger).



Bedding the flange in sealant just seemed wrong, but necessary...Bed the flange, screwed it down then applied half a
tube of GE silicone II to face and edge. Set the toilet and with my weight on it tightened it down. Took a while and more
force than I would have liked to compress that foam gasket. But NO ROCK!


Cut off the previously hard plumbed PEX and installed Flair-It valve with flex line. Later when I get a restraining hoop
like used on shower hose Ill recut and place valve closer to wall. Or just hoop where its at.



Nice, what can you say -toilet. The added height easy as is the foot control. Jury's still out on the textured lid-I can't
touch it, doesn't clean easily? The valve will be nice to throttle water volume. Thetford recommends rateing at 10
quarts a minute? More for saving water and tank capacity when camping but recently stayed a few days in San Juan
Bautista (BBQ cook off). CG city water and it filled the black tank in 2 days-cutting in half or so should cut water use
and storage.
Left to do is cut my rinse wand and extend...

Got everything put away and cleaned up last night, reflecting on our new toilet, picture of the tape dam I used to seal
pipe popped into my head. Ummm...Yep... I hadnt removed, looking in toilet its floating in tank... Oh joy

EDIT:
rinse wand extended



With little hope, rinsed black tank into blue auxiliary bucket..drained using 3/4" garden hose. Wanted to verify if tape dam came out.


Amazingly came out first try. Assumed would take several tries, if at all. All's well that ends well...

[c_traveler2]

c.traveler2 wrote:
hey guys, none of the photos are showing for the entire thread?

Just rechecked this thread, all photos showing. I recently replaced my toilet, same as the OP with a chair height and the flush lever is up front and you can activate with your heel of your foot.

Nice job on that toilet replacement.

[AnEv942]

Well, seen one toilet flange pretty much seen em all-Other than the insert flange. pics are hosted on photobucket-
I'm seeing?

Just for grins. Watched a video of fella removing flange in camper.
Starts out by dragging out half his shop tools and describes what might come in handy. Then proceed to move aside
tools not needed stating 'don't need this.. or that" until all he had was hammer and drift. Tapped the flange and
unscrewed. Kinda funny. Couldn't be that lucky..



Here's the pile I have accumulating in camper...and used them all, haven't even got toilet yet.
Supposed to arrive tomorrow.



Did get floor sanded flat, 3/4" plywood blocks to support plywood edge. Drilled pilot hole so holes that previously
broke out go into wood but still close to edge.

[Reddog1]

See them now?

Wayne
Moderator

[c_traveler2]

hey guys, none of the photos are showing for the entire thread?

[SidecarFlip]

Problem is, unless you live in the middle east, a toilet is a necessity.

[AnEv942]

Were good on opening/swinging stuff. Were both fairly long legged so our feets wont be hanging out.
As too rocking on the Thetford clearance between the bolt hole bosses underneath and surface of flange is zero or exactly enough for thickness of flange. So if flange warped or floor drops away, perimeter edge of toilet wont reach =rockage. I can only guess because its plastic, once it contacts flange cant pull toilet any tighter by the bolts.
Shimming I had thought about though I needed to remove to make sure stuff ok but after seeing toilet wedges might break the rather thin shell. Full spacer, say thin disposable cutting board sheet might work.

Only saving grace is the gasket is foam, otherwise like toilet in our home, I have to replace wax ring at least once a year.

Next time Im using one of these, then toilet and flange should stay sealed, move independently of plumbing underneath which cant move. Also let me cut pipe shorter, had to make a spacer under toilet as flange is now 3/4" above floor.
Ya joy of plumbing...I actually enjoy, water lines, gas lines, air lines- anything but toilets 🙂

[ScottG]

If you have anything that swings open over the toilet, like a cabinet or shower door, be careful that it will clear the new commode.
I replaced ours with a SeaLand and the shower door only cleared it by .2"!

[SidecarFlip]

I might be getting somewhat shorter as my wife is as we get older but I had to add (build) a wood slatted shower stall mat so we could use the throne without our feet dangling....

You got me curious now, out Thetford rocks just a bit. Don't want to 'can' it (pun intended) it's a front flush valve model Our toilet / shower is a one unit affair.

Pretty crappy workmanship on yours, but typical of the RV industry. They are all shoemakers to some extent.

[Reality_Check]

Reddog1 wrote:

AnEv942 wrote:


Then I stumbled on this. WOW. I didn't know these were made. Slips inside of pipe and uses gasket. Simple, easier to install, makes servicing easy but also allows movement between shower floor/toilet and top of black tank. Slip Joint!

Where did you find this?

As I get older I also get rounder (fatter). I'm thinking maybe a taller toilet may help me fit. What do you think?

Wayne

Common at most any big box store (Hm Depot, etc), and plumbing store.

[AnEv942]

"Push-Tite" by SiouxCheif- Fits 3" pipe ID, most RVs (4" pipe ID available). Probably other brands and likely sources. This came from Home Depot. While it wont make you squarer I know the extra (or less) 3" down & up of new toilet will be welcome by us 🙂

It seems to me these, on a toilet that sets on top of black tank is ideal.

[Reddog1]

AnEv942 wrote:


Then I stumbled on this. WOW. I didn't know these were made. Slips inside of pipe and uses gasket. Simple, easier to install, makes servicing easy but also allows movement between shower floor/toilet and top of black tank. Slip Joint!

Where did you find this?

As I get older I also get rounder (fatter). I'm thinking maybe a taller toilet may help me fit. What do you think?

Wayne

[cewillis]

Good work -- hope the rest goes well.