Stable-lift ?

[jornvango]

We are considering having a stable-lift system installed on our 2014 Livin Lite 8.6 truck camper. Since we love to boondock on public lands, we are looking for a solution that will allow us to easily remove the truck camper while we are camping on uneven/unstable ground. The 4 wobbly jacks on our TC are too scary for us to use in these circumstances, but we do love to have the truck available for exploring while boondocking. We are currently considering trading in the TC for a travel trailer for this very reason. Obviously, installing a stable-lift will be cheaper than the money we would lose on trading in the TC and buying a travel trailer.

Does anyone have the Stable-lift system and if yes, how is the performance on uneven ground?
How about taking it off on forest land, desert ... does it sink in case of heavy rains?

Regarding potential negatives of the product: I'm aware of the difficulty to install (while reading up on the product); I would find a shop to install them. I'm also aware of the reduced ground clearance.

Thanks,

Jorn

[Reddog1]

Thanks

[Wagonqueen_Truc]

Will do

[Reddog1]

Wagonqueen Truckster, would you mind posting a photo of your lift looking from the front to rear, under the TC side. I am interested in seeing how the top plate is configured to bolt to your TC. I am going to convert my SRW lift to a DRW, which requires extending the mounting plate. I have a couple of ideas, but from what I can see of yours I might be over designing mine.

Wayne

[Wagonqueen_Truc]

I can not explain how much our camping lives changed after purchasing and installing out new Stable Lift. Before Stable, we sometimes didn't even want to expend the time and stress of loading our old TC onto the truck unless we were going away for at least 3 or more days. It literally took over an hour. It swayed like the Tacoma Narrow Bridge. And there was NEVER A TIME WE EVEN THOUGHT ABOUT DROPPING.

Since Stable Lift we sometimes put on the TC for just a day trip. It literally takes less than 5 minutes to load. It never sways. We drop it almost anywhere.

Ugly? Perhaps. But who gives a ****. Does anyone really go camping to enter in a beauty contest?

[walkeraw]

walkeraw wrote:

I didn't need to install the saddle brackets, since I have running boards installed.

burningman:

Wait, what?? What have running boards got to do with it?
I've got running boards, they're no substitute for the brackets.

notsobigjoe:

Yea, I was curious about this to. Can you explain a little more?
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Sorry....
I apparently left out a few words in my original post. I meant to say that I didn't need to install the FRONT saddle brackets. My running boards allow the front of the lower hoop to be pulled up very snuggly against the running board structure. The rear saddle brackets were indeed installed and really "anchors" everything in the proper alignment. I think the main concern is to get the proper pre-tensioning adjustment of the brackets (otherwise, you could pull/damage the wings of the camper where the lift attaches). There are no other tie-downs in use. In my case, I found that I really didn't need the front brackets installed. The fitment in the truck bed is tight as well as secure.
My truck is a 2005 Dodge 2500 quadcab, longbed, turbo-diesel, 6spd manual, SRW.

[Reddog1]

Silly me, all these years I never gave thought to the fact the front overhang (cabover) would be more likely to tip down if you had no rear tiedowns. If you hit a speed bump fast enough with no tie downs or your tie downs failed, you could do serious damage. One more positive for the Stable Lift, the tie downs can't fail.

[GeoBoy]

Kayteg1 wrote:

Reddog1 wrote:
I am amazed I did not go on my side. With conventional tie downs, they would have ripped off and the TC would have flipped out of the bed.

Wayne

I always wonder about ties weak point as bend hooks on Fastguns don't get much of my trust, but one member reported that he run over a bump or whatever and bend his tie-downs, so that would make the weak point.
Obviously on older camper -brackets holding to rotten wood can become the weakest point.
Rear ties are advised to be adjusted with no tension and sometimes I have mine rattling.
I took 18% forest grade with my 11-11" camper and was far from wheeling. Fact is that I measure the grade later and it was quite a shock.

I was going north on I-5 this June, hit a dip/ bump and my TC rocked forward just enough to put a ever so slight dimple in the header of the bed. I checked my tie downs and sure enough the back tie downs needed a turn or two to be at Torklifts suggested tension. So do check all your tiedowns a day or so after loading your camper on your truck.

[Reddog1]

On another occasion, I did not see a speed bump and hit it between 30 and 35 mph. The force was so great, it bent the brackets on my outboard mounted airbags. Obviously that was the downward force. But Had I not had the Stable Lift, the upward slamming force would have ripped the tiedowns off of my TC. Keep in mind my TC is a 11.5 foot which is a lot of overhang.

[Kayteg1]

Reddog1 wrote:
I am amazed I did not go on my side. With conventional tie downs, they would have ripped off and the TC would have flipped out of the bed.

Wayne

I always wonder about ties weak point as bend hooks on Fastguns don't get much of my trust, but one member reported that he run over a bump or whatever and bend his tie-downs, so that would make the weak point.
Obviously on older camper -brackets holding to rotten wood can become the weakest point.
Rear ties are advised to be adjusted with no tension and sometimes I have mine rattling.
I took 18% forest grade with my 11-11" camper and was far from wheeling. Fact is that I measure the grade later and it was quite a shock.

[Reddog1]

I'm not an engineer, but I think the objective is to put just enough force front and rear to prevent the normal vibration from sliding the TC out the back of the truck.

The Stable Lift sandwiching the truck bed and frame between the TC and lower hoop secures the TC to the truck as good as it gets. Years ago, I was in heavy traffic and had to make an evasive maneuver. The truck and camper were on two wheels. I am amazed I did not go on my side. With conventional tie downs, they would have ripped off and the TC would have flipped out of the bed.

Wayne

[burningman]

Oh yeah that makes sense, maybe he's just using regular tie-downs.
It still sounds odd, you wouldn't gain any clearance, the lift still goes under the truck in the same place. And you'd lose a big part of the convenience of a SL, automatic tie-down.

I've always questioned the angle of most rear tiedowns that reach toward the rear... they put rearward tension on the camper which actually helps it slide backwards out of the bed. That seems wrong to me. Sure they help keep it from sliding forward, but so what, it's got nowhere to go forward, it can only slide backwards.
I've always set my rear ties to be straight down. I've had issues with campers sliding backward before, taking off from a stop on a steep hill. Real spooky when an 11.5 does that on a regular-cab truck on a steep hill, I thought I was gonna do a wheelie and drop the camper right out like a dump truck.

[Reddog1]

burningman, I'm just guessing but could be he is still using his original tie downs. Could be he is using his running boards to clamp the TC to the truck, and relies on the friction to prevent the TC from moving forward and rearward. Actually makes sense. Hard to believe the TC will go forward after bumping the front of the bed. Lots of friction to slide out the back if clamped to the running boards. Interesting thought.

Why do we use tie downs to keep the TC from sliding forward?

Wayne

[Reddog1]

notsobigjoe, never had a problem with the jacks "locking up". I would need more info to help identify the issue.

I did have a problem once with the single motor really straining to lift its side of the TC. I switched it with a motor from the opposite side and had no improvement. I then checked my Trimetric and my battery was fully charged. I checked all connections, found no problems but the lift worked just fine. Point is, had to be a bad connection.

After that experience, I made a set of jumpers that I can use to go directly from any 12v source to any of the three jacks to raise or lower the jack. So far, the jumpers have been a waste of time cause they have not been needed.

Wayne

[burningman]

Reddog1 wrote:

notsobigjoe wrote:

burningman wrote:

walkeraw wrote:
I didn't need to install the saddle brackets, since I have running boards installed.

Wait, what?? What have running boards got to do with it?
I've got running boards, they're no substitute for the brackets.

Yea, I was curious about this to. Can you explain a little more?

walkeraw's situation may be the same as mine. On my '96 Dodge SRW, the running boards hang low enough they were the controlling factor on how much ground clearence my lift had. As I recall, without the running boards I could have had an additional 1 to 2 inches clearence. I decided to leave it, and it never became an issue.

When I install the lift for my DRW, I will again have to consider the running boards.

Wayne

But that's the opposite of what he said. He said he didn't need to install his saddle brackets because of his running boards. That still makes no sense.