stableload quick disconnect

[dave17352]

I am looking into stableload quick disconnect for my 2011 Chevy 3500 SRW. I only have about a half inch or less clearance from my bottom overload leaf to the main spring pack. So if anybody has done this on my year of truck or in a similar situation. Does the quick disconnect work in this case.

Thanks for any help!

[Bedlam]

Sorry, read your post backwards. I prefer to start with uppers like you did.

[joeshmoe]

Bedlam wrote:
I think you should run both upper and lower StableLoads. I started with uppers to reduce sag and added lowers for less sway. Once I had the camper and trailer connected, the springs sagged too much on my F250 and made the front run high. If I had the taller blocks of a F350, I might have not needed the air bags, but it was nice having the adjustability based on load.

BTW: Torklift suggests installing the lower first, like you did.

Sorry, I have uppers only installed at the moment. Just bought lowers today. Not installed yet

Thanks

[Bedlam]

I think you should run both upper and lower StableLoads. I started with uppers to reduce sag and added lowers for less sway. Once I had the camper and trailer connected, the springs sagged too much on my F250 and made the front run high. If I had the taller blocks of a F350, I might have not needed the air bags, but it was nice having the adjustability based on load.

BTW: Torklift suggests installing the lower first, like you did.

[Bigfootchevy]

I have had the upper stable loads for years. One of the best options I every installed. A few months ago I heard about the lower Stable loads but do not understand what the lower stable loads do exactly. And do you need both lower and upper stable loads?

Paul

[joeshmoe]

Bedlam wrote:
I found my upper StableLoads helped with sag and the lower ones helped with sway. The lower ones don't do that much for sag except for mane the height of the wedges. I used the upper and lower StableLoads to handle the TC and Firestone bags to handle the tongue weight.

I am installing lowers today. I already have uppers, Although there is a marked improvement with some of the sag and sway, it still seems to sag/squat quite a bit when I lower the camper down. I was thinking about removing the uppers IF necessary, after I test it with both installed. So you recommend running both?

I'm of the opinion that the suspension was designed to be fully utilized before the overloads should engage. It seems logical to install lowers first. Then, if needed, uppers. I suppose did it backwards, as I think many do. It just seems incorrect to engage the overloads before the spring pack is fully used. I might be totally wrong.

[Bedlam]

I found my upper StableLoads helped with sag and the lower ones helped with sway. The lower ones don't do that much for sag except for mane the height of the wedges. I used the upper and lower StableLoads to handle the TC and Firestone bags to handle the tongue weight.

[claymcc]

I've got a '15 GMC dually, and put in the lower Stableloads as well. I can only get 2 wedges in with the truck empty and sitting; I also have about 1/2" of clearance between the spring pack and the overload to work with.

With my AF992, the truck sags 3" with 2 wedges in, 3" without. They may make a bit of difference in handling, but unlike my '11 GMC dually with upper stableloads, the sag is too much. Actually, the '11 didn't sag more than a couple inches with the same camper.

I'm going to put air bags on as well, so that I can easily raise the truck, use all 3 wedges, and adjust ride height. With a 5000 lb+ camper and a 5200 lb boat/trailer on a 36" Supertruss extension (no option for a weight-distributing hitch on the trailer), it's just too much sag and really affects ground clearance on the extension.

- Clay

[Bedlam]

Sometimes using a hammer cures the operator regardless of the project outcome - There's nothing wrong with that.

[Wheelholder]

Bedlam, the hammer was just the quickest way to turn them. I use a ratchet with extension. That particular one was just being stubborn and I got a bit frustrated and hit it to relieve that particular emotion. lol

[sky_free]

3 wedges on a 2012 F350 DRW. I do have to jack up the back at the receiver a few inches to swing them out or back in. It's a non-issue really.

[Bedlam]

You do know there is a square drive for your ratchet wrench to engage/disengage the StableLoads? Maybe you meed a longer wrench for better leverage - I never had to use a hammer.

[Wheelholder]

My 2500 had close clearance on the springs also. I put 2 of the wedges in and they clear just fine. The front ones are snug and sometimes I have to nudge them with a hammer to get the pin in. The angled part fits in to get them started, but is tight to rotate by hand, thus the hammer.

[Bedlam]

I'm another Ford guy that ran both upper and lower StableLoads. I did run all three wedges:

[dave17352]

Well that's what I was hoping to hear. I am sure I can do the same then. Just lift the rear a little at the receiver and put the wedges before loading the camper. Sounds good to me.