TC newbie, can I get some input please?

[languiduck]

A couple weeks ago we finally brought our new TC home. We used to own an older TT several years ago and didn't like it too much. Mainly because I like to take my Jeep with me for trail riding, etc.
Since then we've spent some time getting used to it, stocking it with supplies, doing a couple short drives and reading tons of threads here which have been very helpful. I already had Roadmaster helper springs on it, but we added a rear Hellwig Big Wig because the body roll was a bit scary.



My main question here is that the COG sticker on the TC is behind the rear axle of my truck. This camper is designed for a short box truck. There's no way I can move it forward any more, because it will hit my tail lights. I have to shim it off the bed with a 2x4. To gain clearance at the cabover, I had to screw 2x6s stacked on top of each other to shim it off the bed 3". I get they have to make a camper one size fits all and this is designed to also probably fit a 1/2 ton truck (which would overload it so that doesn't make any sense to me), and on a 1/2 ton truck the COG would possibly be forward more than it sits on my truck. Any thoughts on this?
The water tank is at the front of the TC so if I filled it that might change things. I'm loading most of the stuff at the front of the camper the best I can. It seems to drive ok, doesn't seem lighter on the front axle. When I set it down, both ends of the truck drop, albeit the rear drops a whole bunch more. I'm thinking since it's a 3/4 ton truck I can get away with it? OR did I just waste several years of saving up?

[languiduck]

That's the plan, will be flat towing the YJ behind us. It's a bunch of first time stuff. I'm only used to hauling it around on a car hauler, so this is totally different. Got a Brake Buddy for it.

[SubVet]

I agree with sleepy. It looks good.

A scale weigh is still a good thing to have. I load most of what I take camping in the Jeep to keep the camper weight down.

Ed

[languiduck]

sleepy wrote:
It looks very good.... I'm looking for a trip report at this point.

I'd do nothing but travel a bit... there will beno more extreme suggestions from me.

Stop in if you get to east Tenn... place to park and dinner

Sleepy

I usually go to Newport TN every year in July or August. Have to skip this year. But I like that area.

[sleepy]

It looks very good.... I'm looking for a trip report at this point.

I'd do nothing but travel a bit... there will beno more extreme suggestions from me.

Stop in if you get to east Tenn... place to park and dinner

Sleepy

[AnEv942]

Hmm 2 1/2+ of squat in the rear. Least its not unloading by tape 0 on front, may be adding a few hundred. You need to look at other trucks to see what is different & (I think) your missing. But See how she handles on your trip.

Minimum Id go to your Ford dealer or local wrecking yard, pick up rear upper overloads (possible the spring pack), the frame stop brackets, the overload spacer block and longer u bolts. I assume you have lower overloads?

Some other solves
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25225094.cfm

I went out and looked at my trucks tail lights- but its my camper. Hangs down a bit lower so removing taillights wouldnt do anything-still hit sheet metal. Yes, removing would get old-but for grins might be a worthwhile effort just to see. And for extended trip might be worth the effort, if it does anything.

[languiduck]

I want to bring this back up one last time if that's ok. First, thanks to everyone that helped me and provided useful and practical advice. Also to several of you that PMd me. It's given me things to think about and encouragement I can make this work.
I loaded it back up today in preparation for a long weekend trip starting early Friday. I took a few more photos from a more head on perspective. I also added some Torklift stable loads (lower) and they seemed to have helped.
So here's the deal:

I am not willing to buy a different truck.
I am not willing to install a custom set of leaf springs as I do not believe I need them. I have more of a weight distribution issue that a load carrying issue. It sits pretty level as is and with the Roadmaster Active Suspension, stable loads, and the Big Wig it seems to be very much improved.
It appears that the front end of my truck does not settle down when the TC is loaded like I originally claimed. It sure looked like it, but the tape measure doesn't lie. So now seeing where my COG is pointed and relation to my rear axle it is more right on it, maybe 1/4" back from center. I was able to get it closer by removing some of the boards that I used between the TC bumpers and the front of the bed. As you can see I'm pretty close to my tail lights now. I'm using two 3/4" thick pieces of plywood to shim it back. I tried removing one but it puts that TC right on the tail light and I'm afraid it might crack it.

So the only thing I can come with is to remove the actual tail light lenses which would allow me to push the TC forward that 1 1/2" and possible help with the weight distribution. Again, that really doesn't seem practical and I'm sure I would tire of it.

I'll end my long winded post by saying it seems to drive ok like this. I really don't need to hear how I've got major issues, everything's all wrong, and I'm going to spontaneously combust going down the road and kill a bus full of children. I'm not a paranoid nutjob that worries, but I do believe in common sense. I'm not overloaded BTW, and my rear axle weight is right on the money. I'm trying to figure it all, please be patient with me and help me make the best of what I have here. Any other ideas?

This is loaded up, 25 gal water tank full, hot water heater full.

Empty rear:


Empty front:



Loaded rear:


Loaded front:



Tail light clearance:


Stance and COG decal:

[SubVet]

I expect the GVWR will generally be the lowest. For example my 11,300 GVWR F350 has combined axle ratings of 12780 and tires of 14560.

That GVWR takes into account other components such as the drivetrain and brakes.

[hedge]

It's all pretty confusing. My 2012 F350 Lariat sticker says 3482 lbs cargo capacity, but the stock tires are good for 3750 each, can't remember the axle capacity.

[okan-star]

Sometimes its hard to get all the worms back in the can 😉

[Carb_Cleaner]

twodownzero wrote:
... No 3/4 ton, 4 door, 4wd truck has that kind of payload.

My '13 F250XL Super Cab (kinda like four doors) 4x4 8' box has a 10,000# GVWR. The door jamb sticker says cargo capacity is 2,983#. After removing the built-in-step tailgate, I have an easy 3,000 pounds. I would think a short bed, single rear wheel crew cab could be similar. It's nowhere near 4,000 pounds. My truck is the base XL model but it has power windows/locks, cruise control and a couple of other small options, so it's not a stripped down truck.
I'm not saying you can't put 4k pounds on an F250, but the truck won't be rated for it.

[exhaustipated]

languiduck wrote:
Well that settles it then, I'm going out and getting one of these tomorrow so I can meet your approval.

Attaboy lanquiduck, that's telling it like it is.

[languiduck]

Well that settles it then, I'm going out and getting one of these tomorrow so I can meet your approval.

[twodownzero]

languiduck wrote:

Why do you think my front end is light?

Probably because your truck is 15% or more above its GVWR.

languiduck wrote:

For the record, my TC is on the lighter side as there are no slide outs or anything crazy. The sticker shows something like 2300# with both propane tanks full and the 25 gal water tank full. Not sure if that includes the weight of the a/c though.

Which means that you'd be on the ragged edge of overloaded even if your truck was a 1 ton SRW. No 3/4 ton, 4 door, 4wd truck has that kind of payload.

[mkirsch]

Wow. 5 pages in a little over a day.

Over such a trivial non-issue, too.

With all due respect, sleepy is over-reacting here. There is nothing special about that truck or that camper. It's a typical everyday Ford F250, and a stock off the lot Travel Lite TC.

That you had to shim it back and build up the base to clear the cab is NORMAL. If you search the forum, you see many people have to do the same thing to make the campers fit in the latest model trucks. There has been a trend to make the trucks bigger and meaner-looking each year, so boxes are much deeper, cabs are much higher.

Using them together may be a "compromise" but it's a very minor one. There is nothing there that will cause the rig to suddenly burst into flames and cartwheel down the highway into a busload of nuns and orphans.

Having the COG 2" behind the axle is NO BIG DEAL. In your truck's glove compartment is a sticker and a manual. Between them, you can find the acceptable COG range for a truck camper in your truck. It most assuredly ranges farther than 2" from the axle.

The COG marked on the camper is only the FACTORY, EMPTY COG. The COG changes as you load stuff in, fill the tanks, etc.. Full fresh tank moves the COG way forward.

Since both the front and rear end of the truck sink down some as the camper is loaded, the COG is actually FORWARD of the rear axle.

Your only problem here is a little bit of excess SQUAT in the rear end. That is simple to deal with, using any of the common suspension add-ons, or some work at a spring shop.

[CptnBG]

If your headlights run too high with the camper loaded (and they probably will) use the Redneck calibration method. Aim your headlights at a wall with the camper off, mark location. Load camper and adjust down to the same location.

I did that and leave headlights in that position and don't have any problem with night time visibility. Some people adjust back and forth.