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This rig is not braking

Fi-Q
Explorer
Explorer
Hi all.

Bought this TH 3 years ago. When I got it, I found the brake to be really really weak. So to be on the safe side, I did replace the 6 brake assembly ( backing plate, pads, magnet, it come as a kit) But I did not see a real improvement.

After a few trips, I re-adjust them. Still not better
The pads are all dry clean ( no grease or oil)
The drumsa re in good shape
Each magnet draw approx 2.5 amp each ( so no wiring issue)
I have a prodigy P2 set to the max with boost on ( I have tried it with other trailer and tis controller is really working good)

So I think the issue is thatt he rv weight near 14 000 lbs and it only have 3 x 5200 lbs axles so the somewhat small brake just ca?t do the job !

Anybody have any suggestion ??

I know upgrading to 8000lbs axle would be awesome, but I ca?t afford it. ( did it on my last unit and it was great, but really expensive and that was only a dual axle rig) And I just put 6 new maxxis tires last years, si I can't justify throwing them away and upgrade to 16".

I think my best options would be upgrading to disc brake ??

I haven't travelled a lot witt his rig ( moved it 4 times in the last 4 year, using it for work staying 8 months on the same rv park ). But I took it for REAL familly camping and I felt so unsfaet hat I won't move it of the yard untill I can imporve the braking.

Going slow and keeping distance is ok as long as nothing happen, but I am not taking that chance again.
GMC Sierra 2006, Dually, 4x4, D/A, LB, CC
Toy Hauler Cross Road / Cross Terrain TF34MK 2006
I own a house, so not a REAL Full Timer but
Living in the RV with the familly 90% of the time, on the road
9 REPLIES 9

Fi-Q
Explorer
Explorer
Westend: I do live close by the sea (approx 1000-1500 feet from the bay itself and 800 feet from the barachois. But I did check all my connexion and none of the had corrosion sign... but I will have a good look at my plug next time I get to the rv (Building the house right now, with 3 kids from 1 to 5, so time to spend on the rv is somewhat limited in my schedule)
GMC Sierra 2006, Dually, 4x4, D/A, LB, CC
Toy Hauler Cross Road / Cross Terrain TF34MK 2006
I own a house, so not a REAL Full Timer but
Living in the RV with the familly 90% of the time, on the road

Fi-Q
Explorer
Explorer
Can't remeber where I got this, but Bacck when I put the new brake, I check the amp draw and read somewhere that 2.5 was ok. And I had from 2.4 to 2.6 amp per magnet. So I tought I was good on wiring side....

Gdetrailer: You're right. I went and dig and i should have 3 or more... so that will be the next step, re-wiring the whole rig with 10ga in a ''star'' patern before spending 1k-2k$ on a disc upgrade. thinking about it, my older 5er originnally had 2 x 5200 lbs axle and I would doulbe tow at approx 12 000 lbs (9000lbs for the 5 er and 3000lbs for the enclose trailer) and the thing would brake. I did upgrade the axle on the old RV cause the 5200lbs where just bending and chewing up the tire and going thru bearing.... but the rig would brake a lot more that what I have now, and that was with a 3/4 ton in front.

I will eventually try to find the time to do the wiring update and will let you guys know....

Thanks a lot !
GMC Sierra 2006, Dually, 4x4, D/A, LB, CC
Toy Hauler Cross Road / Cross Terrain TF34MK 2006
I own a house, so not a REAL Full Timer but
Living in the RV with the familly 90% of the time, on the road

westend
Explorer
Explorer
If you look underneath the trailer and can trace the brake wiring, see if it is wired in series and what gauge of wire is used.

If it is wired in series, I would rewire the brakes into a star/parallel layout. If you mount a terminal strip that has all of the brake wiring to the front of the rig, it's easy to measure what's happening with the brake electrical side.

With new assemblies and Dad along, it sounds like the mechanical side is well covered. I've never owned a tri-axle but have carried some weight with four down and I would think that 6 brakes should be adequate for braking.

EDit: Is Bonaventure close to water? You might want to check your umbilical connections, too.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Fi-Q wrote:
Hi all.


Each magnet draw approx 2.5 amp each ( so no wiring issue)


Anybody have any suggestion ??


I think my best options would be upgrading to disc brake ??



2.5A per magnet is no good.

The Magnets SHOULD be drawing 3A at 12V..

you only have 83% of the actual braking capacity.

17% is being "lost" by your wiring.

Check your wire ga, most likely it is wired with 14ga wire and that creates a large voltage loss over the distance.

Before going to the expense of changing to disk brakes I would recommend BYPASSING the existing brake wires with 10 ga or even a bit heavier wire from the tongue all the way to the magnet wires. I used two pairs of 10 ga wires and am extremely pleased with my brakes.

Although perhaps not as heavy as your rig I am able to set my IBC to 4.5 out of 10 and be able to feel the trailer brakes working.

Do yourself a huge favor and do not reuse the wire in the axle tubes, it just causes problems down the road..

I suspect the voltage loss is the issue, fix that and chances are good you will have plenty of brakes.

Fi-Q
Explorer
Explorer
I haven't try to pull it with the break away pi off.

If stopped, even if it pull hard, the trucks is able to get the rv moving. I only traveld the rv a few time but this is over 3000 miles of driving. I have pulled other rvs and other kind of trailers and this one definetly dosen' t have a decent braking capcity..

When adjusting, I will adjsut untill the wheel locka nd then loose it until I can somewhat rotate. Dad was a DOT mechanic and he's the one helping with this.

If I am driving 55 mph and pull the lever all the way on controller, it will barely slow me down. But if i do this with an otehr trailer, the wheels are locking up.

The symptom is just that at some point it will slow me down. If I am stopped on a dirt driveway, it will be hard to get going, the truck will have hard time getting it going, but the wheels will not locked, not even on dirt.
GMC Sierra 2006, Dually, 4x4, D/A, LB, CC
Toy Hauler Cross Road / Cross Terrain TF34MK 2006
I own a house, so not a REAL Full Timer but
Living in the RV with the familly 90% of the time, on the road

newman_fulltime
Explorer II
Explorer II
Look at titan electric over hydrolic brakes well worth the money

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
When adjusted did you have a slight drag of brake shoes on drum and wheel only free spin about 1/2-3/4 turn?
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

Francesca_Knowl
Explorer
Explorer
Fi-Q wrote:

I haven't travelled a lot witt his rig ( moved it 4 times in the last 4 year, using it for work staying 8 months on the same rv park ).


If you've only driven it four times in four years, it's possible that you just haven't "learned the rig" yet. Braking capacity sounds sufficient for the load, especially with the truck you're towing it with.

What exactly are the symptoms of inadequate braking? Have you done the "test" whereby you get up to about twenty miles an hour, then activate the manual slide knob to see how the trailer brakes react?
" Not every mind that wanders is lost. " With apologies to J.R.R. Tolkien

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II
I have always wondered if my brakes were working adequately so I'll be interested to see what you ultimately find out on this.

I am curious though what happens if you pull the breakaway pin and then try to pull it a few feet? Do the brakes lock up, or does it just roll along behind the truck?

Do you get a good deceleration if you're rolling down the road around town and you move the manual brake lever over to max?.
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup