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TR: Some time at the Reef

SheepCamp
Explorer
Explorer
It was a busy summer and we didn’t get out as much as we had hoped so we decided to spend some time over in Central Utah at Capitol Reef National Park and explore the area a bit with a little time in the San Rafael Swell. We took off about midday on the Tuesday before Halloween. Made good time and decided to call it day just north of Lake Powell.

Morning found the sun up and welcoming us to a beautiful day. In order to make it easier to explore some of the areas we wanted, we decided to bring the DW’s jeep along. It flat tows nicely and saves the weight on the truck from the flatbed trailer.


Headed on up the Fremont River in Capital Reef National Park. Fall comes a bit later in the desert and the trees were in full color. Capitol Dome is in the center and gives the Park its name.



Found a nice camp spot in the campground and had time for a scenic drive before dinner. The geology of the area is shown in some of the amazing canyons and bluffs that are found in the Park.





On Thursday we take off to the SE toward the towns Boulder and Escalante to explore. There is some amazing county in Central Utah and the people that settled it were far tougher than we are today.


At Escalante we headed up the FS road to the Hell’s Backbone. It is a pleasant 30 mile loop up through the forest overlooking some amazing canyons.
The highlight is the one lane bridge over the spines of the backbone. The original bridge was built with logs in the 1930’s by the CCC. It has been updated in recent years as the logs rotted out.




The trail loops around and comes out back at the town of Boulder. Being a little hungry we broke out the cooler and enjoyed our lunch at the Anasazi State Park and Museum. It is a nice facility that is worth your time to stop at if you pass through the area. From there we headed off down the Burr Trail. The trail is a 60 mile loop that runs from Boulder to just east of Capital Reef. The first half is paved with the last half good gravel. If you don’t want to do the gravel part, take some time and drive out and back on the paved part. There are many side roads and boondocking opportunities. The Henry Mountains are in the background. They have a free roaming herd of about 300 buffalo that lives on their western slopes.





Just about half way along is a side track up the Muley Twist Creek. A short 3 mile spur that leads to a interesting hike along the narrow canyon and a short side trail to an overlook of the Waterpocket Fold.



An impressive view of the Waterpocket Fold and what Mother Nature can do when she gets mad and folds up the earth’s crust. Looking south.



Looking north. Capitol Reef in the background




With one day left at Capitol Reef we decided that we would take a trip to Cathedral Valley. This is a 60 dirt track through some amazing geologic features.

At the start start, you ford the Fremont River. Not to bad but could be interesting after a storm



Brightly colored Bentonite Hills



Desert Overview shows the varied geology. Volcanic plugs and dikes mixed in with multi-colored sandstones. Henry Mountains in the distance



Hasn’t everyone always wondered what a volcano looks like underground. (OK, maybe someone has) here is your chance, a volcanic plug with its side exposed.



Overview of Cathedral Valley



On the way out you pass the Temples of the Sun and Moon. Our lunch stop at the Temple of the Moon


On our way back to camp, we ran into a western traffic jam. Local cowboys were moving their cows from their summer pasture in the high mountains down into the desert where they will spend the winter. Just two weeks before we had helped our son move his father-in law’s large herd of cows and calves from their mountain pastures in the La Plata Mountains down through downtown Mancos, Colorado, along Main Street past the Bank and Post Office to their home ranch south of town.



Capitol Reef has a very nice campground (no hookups) at the old Mormon community of Fruita. Large cottonwood trees in the campground and with abundant wildlife roaming through the spaces. Mule deer and wild turkeys roam freely among the campers and feed on fallen fruit from over 3200 fruit trees from the well maintained orchards that were planted in the 1880’s by the pioneer settlers. One of the nicest treat is the Gifford House, an old homestead home that now is a store run by the local Park Association. They bake fresh bread and fruit pies daily (also delicious cinnamon rolls) and many home canned goods. Fresh Pie and homemade ice cream sure made dinner a pleasure each night.



Apple orchards in the left background. I took a walk and picked some apples for snacks (they provide ladders and picking sticks). They open the orchards as the fruit becomes ripe for you to pick in quanity for a small fee. They have most fruits somewhere around the area, apples, peaches, pears, cherries and others.



While we enjoy the modern amenities of the area, it is fascinating to realize that we are not the first to enjoy this area. This area has been a homeland to people for thousands of years. Archaic hunters and gatherers migrated through the canyons and later, the Fremont Culture began farming corn, beans, and squash. Petroglyphs etched in rock walls and painted pictographs remain as sacred remnants of the ancient Indians' saga.
The pictographs here are about 3 ft tall.


These larger than life pictographs are in a canyon in the San Rafael Reef. They have weathered pretty hard as the sandstone has flakes off. There are both older Barrier Canyon style (1500 to 4000 Yr old) and newer Fremont style (700 to 1300 Yr old). The animal on the left is a dog.



After our time at the “Reef”, we decided to go and poke our toes into the “Swell”. To the NE about 60 miles is some more exciting areas to explore. On the day after Halloween we stop by Goblin Valley State Park to check out the amazing hoodoos and spires.





An hour or so playing hide and seek with the hundreds of goblins wore us out so we turned the Cherokee loose and headed into the San Rafael Swell. With limited time and inclement weather rolling in, we just got our feet wet exploring the Swell as we made plans for an extended time to return to the Swell in the future.





With our goal of Moab for the night we headed to the town of Green River. One of those hidden treasures in Utah is the John Wesley Powell River History Museum. On the banks of the Green River on the east end of town is a first class museum that is worth a couple hours of your time. Very nice museum which is full of interesting displays and information on the exploration of the Green and Colorado Rivers.



On to Moab for a night along the Colorado River and a nice dinner in town before our final run for home.
As winter shows it is not far off, we settle in at home to plan our future trips to the wilds of the Colorado Plateau.

01 F350 CC SRW 7.3 Diesel
05 Lance 845
96 Jeep Cherokee, Beaches of Baja
79 Jeep CJ7, Moab Rocks
38 REPLIES 38

flaxi
Explorer
Explorer
hey Doug, you brought me in mind so many beautiful memories... Exactly 3 years ago we passed this region, you remember....... ? 😉 😉
Thanks for the great trip report ! 🙂

cheers from Germany !
Felix

exhaustipated
Explorer
Explorer
Wonderful trip report and magnificent photos. Thanks for sharing. Awesome part of the country you visited.
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2012 Travel Lite 960RX
Torklift frame mounted tie downs with FastGun turnbuckles and a Lock and Load maximum security cargo tray.
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tuna_fisher
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the TR. Our favorite area, you could spend your life there and never see it all. Usually get there at least once a yr. Already planning for Cedar Mesa area next spring.
2001 GMC DM, 1995 Lance Lite, @005 Eclipse Toyhauler, Toy's!;)

Bubtoofat
Explorer
Explorer
Great trip report. Such an awesome part of the country. Love the XJ. My daughter and I are doing a project XJ at the moment. We plan on taking it to Moab and to some of the trails in Colorado when it's finished. Love those rocky trails out west. I don't much like mud and that's about all we have here in Michigan. That and sand.........and rust.
Mike
2005 Chevy 2500HD Crew 4X4 6.0
2011 Northstar Adventurer
Hellwig Bigwig, Ride-Rites, Fastguns, KYB Monomax.


"No matter where I am, I can't help feeling I'm just a day away from where I want to be."
Jackson Browne

whazoo
Explorer
Explorer
SheepCamp wrote:
profdant139, weather looks pretty nice this weekend for Utah. We are taking my jeep to Moab this weekend to meet friends and play a bit before winter gets serious. Nice weather here today, clear skies, mid 50's and we are at 7,500 ft. in SW Colorado


Seriously Doug, do you have to do that man. Mid-80's here today, we miss Durango, sadly.

SheepCamp
Explorer
Explorer
profdant139, weather looks pretty nice this weekend for Utah. We are taking my jeep to Moab this weekend to meet friends and play a bit before winter gets serious. Nice weather here today, clear skies, mid 50's and we are at 7,500 ft. in SW Colorado
01 F350 CC SRW 7.3 Diesel
05 Lance 845
96 Jeep Cherokee, Beaches of Baja
79 Jeep CJ7, Moab Rocks

bigfootford
Nomad II
Nomad II
Great trip report. We have been there 2 times and each time we see different things.. Your pic's inspire us to do it again. Have not taken our Toad there... Do believe that would be a benefit.

Jim
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260, Two Redodo 100ah Mini's, Aims 2500 Conv/Inv, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Delorme/laptop for travel, Wave-3 heat.

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
Great TR -- there is just too much to explore out there! We are hoping to head out to the Bryce/Escalante area this weekend, if the weather holds.
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
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silversand
Explorer
Explorer
Wow man; outstanding trip report! That sun and dry looks fabulous !

We have out 1st sunny day and warmth (53F) here today in our region in ~5 weeks. I'd almost forgotten that the sun even existed any more !

Cheers,
S-

On edit: correction...it just hit 62F here; looks like we could be headed for 70F in the great white northeast!
Silver
2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 4x4 6.0L Ext/LB Tow Package 4L80E Michelin AT2s| Outfitter Caribou

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
Spectacular. Thanks for posting this - it made my morning.

SheepCamp
Explorer
Explorer
joe b. wrote:
The Reef really isn't on the way to anywhere, it seems.


Joe, that is one of the reasons we like that area so much. A little work to get there can pay some beautiful rewards and adventures.
01 F350 CC SRW 7.3 Diesel
05 Lance 845
96 Jeep Cherokee, Beaches of Baja
79 Jeep CJ7, Moab Rocks

anutami
Explorer III
Explorer III
Awesome trip and beautiful photos. Thanks for sharing, we are headed out there this coming week and your photos are getting me pumped 🙂
2001 Ford F350 LB Diesel 4x4 CrewCab Stick
2015 Wolf Creek 850 Thermal Pane Windows, Oven, Reinforced Anchor Bolts, 200w Solar, Torklift Tie Downs, Fastguns, Stableloads

805gregg
Explorer
Explorer
We were there in June, Utah has so much to see
2003 Dodge Quad Cab 3500 SRW LB Cummins diesel, Banks Six Gun, Banks exhaust, Mag hytec deep trans pan, and Diff cover. Buckstop bumper, Aerotanks 55gal tank, airbags, stableloads Bigwig stabilizer, 2003 Lance 1071 camper, solar and generator

Tiger4x4RV
Nomad
Nomad
Thanks for sharing your trip.
2006 Tiger CX 4x4, 8.1 L gas V-8, Allison 6-speed

Mello_Mike
Explorer
Explorer
Great TR and terrific pics of one of my favorite areas.
2016 Northstar Laredo SC/240w Solar/2-6v Lifeline AGMs/Dometic CR110 DC Compressor Fridge
2013 Ram 3500 4x4/6.7L Cummins TD/3.42/Buckstop Bumper with Warn 16.5ti Winch/Big Wig Rear Sway Bar/Talons w/SS Fastguns
My Rig
1998 Jeep Wrangler
US Navy Ret.