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TR: Some time at the Reef

SheepCamp
Explorer
Explorer
It was a busy summer and we didn’t get out as much as we had hoped so we decided to spend some time over in Central Utah at Capitol Reef National Park and explore the area a bit with a little time in the San Rafael Swell. We took off about midday on the Tuesday before Halloween. Made good time and decided to call it day just north of Lake Powell.

Morning found the sun up and welcoming us to a beautiful day. In order to make it easier to explore some of the areas we wanted, we decided to bring the DW’s jeep along. It flat tows nicely and saves the weight on the truck from the flatbed trailer.


Headed on up the Fremont River in Capital Reef National Park. Fall comes a bit later in the desert and the trees were in full color. Capitol Dome is in the center and gives the Park its name.



Found a nice camp spot in the campground and had time for a scenic drive before dinner. The geology of the area is shown in some of the amazing canyons and bluffs that are found in the Park.





On Thursday we take off to the SE toward the towns Boulder and Escalante to explore. There is some amazing county in Central Utah and the people that settled it were far tougher than we are today.


At Escalante we headed up the FS road to the Hell’s Backbone. It is a pleasant 30 mile loop up through the forest overlooking some amazing canyons.
The highlight is the one lane bridge over the spines of the backbone. The original bridge was built with logs in the 1930’s by the CCC. It has been updated in recent years as the logs rotted out.




The trail loops around and comes out back at the town of Boulder. Being a little hungry we broke out the cooler and enjoyed our lunch at the Anasazi State Park and Museum. It is a nice facility that is worth your time to stop at if you pass through the area. From there we headed off down the Burr Trail. The trail is a 60 mile loop that runs from Boulder to just east of Capital Reef. The first half is paved with the last half good gravel. If you don’t want to do the gravel part, take some time and drive out and back on the paved part. There are many side roads and boondocking opportunities. The Henry Mountains are in the background. They have a free roaming herd of about 300 buffalo that lives on their western slopes.





Just about half way along is a side track up the Muley Twist Creek. A short 3 mile spur that leads to a interesting hike along the narrow canyon and a short side trail to an overlook of the Waterpocket Fold.



An impressive view of the Waterpocket Fold and what Mother Nature can do when she gets mad and folds up the earth’s crust. Looking south.



Looking north. Capitol Reef in the background




With one day left at Capitol Reef we decided that we would take a trip to Cathedral Valley. This is a 60 dirt track through some amazing geologic features.

At the start start, you ford the Fremont River. Not to bad but could be interesting after a storm



Brightly colored Bentonite Hills



Desert Overview shows the varied geology. Volcanic plugs and dikes mixed in with multi-colored sandstones. Henry Mountains in the distance



Hasn’t everyone always wondered what a volcano looks like underground. (OK, maybe someone has) here is your chance, a volcanic plug with its side exposed.



Overview of Cathedral Valley



On the way out you pass the Temples of the Sun and Moon. Our lunch stop at the Temple of the Moon


On our way back to camp, we ran into a western traffic jam. Local cowboys were moving their cows from their summer pasture in the high mountains down into the desert where they will spend the winter. Just two weeks before we had helped our son move his father-in law’s large herd of cows and calves from their mountain pastures in the La Plata Mountains down through downtown Mancos, Colorado, along Main Street past the Bank and Post Office to their home ranch south of town.



Capitol Reef has a very nice campground (no hookups) at the old Mormon community of Fruita. Large cottonwood trees in the campground and with abundant wildlife roaming through the spaces. Mule deer and wild turkeys roam freely among the campers and feed on fallen fruit from over 3200 fruit trees from the well maintained orchards that were planted in the 1880’s by the pioneer settlers. One of the nicest treat is the Gifford House, an old homestead home that now is a store run by the local Park Association. They bake fresh bread and fruit pies daily (also delicious cinnamon rolls) and many home canned goods. Fresh Pie and homemade ice cream sure made dinner a pleasure each night.



Apple orchards in the left background. I took a walk and picked some apples for snacks (they provide ladders and picking sticks). They open the orchards as the fruit becomes ripe for you to pick in quanity for a small fee. They have most fruits somewhere around the area, apples, peaches, pears, cherries and others.



While we enjoy the modern amenities of the area, it is fascinating to realize that we are not the first to enjoy this area. This area has been a homeland to people for thousands of years. Archaic hunters and gatherers migrated through the canyons and later, the Fremont Culture began farming corn, beans, and squash. Petroglyphs etched in rock walls and painted pictographs remain as sacred remnants of the ancient Indians' saga.
The pictographs here are about 3 ft tall.


These larger than life pictographs are in a canyon in the San Rafael Reef. They have weathered pretty hard as the sandstone has flakes off. There are both older Barrier Canyon style (1500 to 4000 Yr old) and newer Fremont style (700 to 1300 Yr old). The animal on the left is a dog.



After our time at the “Reef”, we decided to go and poke our toes into the “Swell”. To the NE about 60 miles is some more exciting areas to explore. On the day after Halloween we stop by Goblin Valley State Park to check out the amazing hoodoos and spires.





An hour or so playing hide and seek with the hundreds of goblins wore us out so we turned the Cherokee loose and headed into the San Rafael Swell. With limited time and inclement weather rolling in, we just got our feet wet exploring the Swell as we made plans for an extended time to return to the Swell in the future.





With our goal of Moab for the night we headed to the town of Green River. One of those hidden treasures in Utah is the John Wesley Powell River History Museum. On the banks of the Green River on the east end of town is a first class museum that is worth a couple hours of your time. Very nice museum which is full of interesting displays and information on the exploration of the Green and Colorado Rivers.



On to Moab for a night along the Colorado River and a nice dinner in town before our final run for home.
As winter shows it is not far off, we settle in at home to plan our future trips to the wilds of the Colorado Plateau.

01 F350 CC SRW 7.3 Diesel
05 Lance 845
96 Jeep Cherokee, Beaches of Baja
79 Jeep CJ7, Moab Rocks
38 REPLIES 38

happycamper1942
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for a great trip report
We were in Utah for 3 weeks earlier this year and plan to go back again next year.
Your report cpnfirmed that we want to go!
2008 Ford F350 crew cab short box PSD, 2021 TravelAir 90W camper

SheepCamp
Explorer
Explorer
Jefe, enjoying our time exploring the SW when we can. Sitting in Moab now. Brought the old CJ7 to play with friends. Couple trips up and down wipe out hill today. Snowing at home, just cloudy here. Play when we can.
01 F350 CC SRW 7.3 Diesel
05 Lance 845
96 Jeep Cherokee, Beaches of Baja
79 Jeep CJ7, Moab Rocks

jefe_4x4
Explorer
Explorer
Doug,
jefe here. It looks as if Pam has fully recovered and you both are striking out into the SW hinterlands. The places you visited have not been fully loved to death like Moab.
Fine report and pix of an area Jeanie and I long to return to, again and again.
Something magical about wide open, red sandy landscape.
jefe
'01.5 Dodge 2500 4x4, CTD, Qcab, SB, NV5600, 241HD, 4.10's, Dana 70/TruTrac; Dana 80/ TruTrac, Spintec hub conversion, H.D. susp, 315/75R16's on 7.5" and 10" wide steel wheels, Vulcan big line, Warn M15K winch '98 Lance Lite 165s, 8' 6" X-cab, 200w Solar

67avion
Explorer II
Explorer II
Doug and Pam, this is an amazing coincidence. First, I really appreciate your TR this morning. Its cold and rainy back here in Illinois.

But, the coincidence......Angela White asked me to write a "story behind the picture of mine that was selected for the 2015 TCM calendar.
click

So here is what I wrote for TCM...you and Pam and Capitol Reef are all in it! I forgot to mention the lambchops. Heh. See you soon.

"Jane and I attended Overland Expo West in May of this year. After the Expo we decided to revisit places where we had each camped in the 1970s - especially Capitol Reef National Monument. The trip through the Southwest turned into an unending experience of awesome beauty as rains broke the drought and made the desert bloom.




"Heading home to Illinois we camped at fellow TC’ers Doug and Pam Ramsey’s Durango, Colorado, sheep ranch. That night it rained torrents. We departed in our Avion before daybreak in a steady shower. Climbing Hwy 160 through the San Juan Mountains the skies were roiling dark clouds. Gradually it lightened and then the sun broke through. We pulled over and brewed morning coffee while gazing over the magnificent scene spread before us".

K_Mac
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for sharing.Great shots.Another one for the list.

c_traveler2
Nomad
Nomad
What a wonderful trip, thanks for sharing your adventure with us!
2007 F-250 4x4 /6.0 PSD/ext cab/ 2020 Bunduvry

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GpnAZ
Explorer
Explorer
Wonderful trip report and some very nice photos, thank you for sharing!
2018' RAM 3500 Laramie CC, DRW, 4X4, Cummins w/ Aisin transmission
2019' Host Mammoth, 480 watts of solar
2017' Jeep JKU Rubicon
2011' Airstream Avenue
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Nemo667
Explorer
Explorer
Doug, thanks for posting this report and the pictures. We know what that involves and appreciate your effort. The Reef is an area that we have not been able to get to yet but will as soon as we can for sure. It was a pleasure meeting you at the Overland this year.

Ben & Tory
2007 F-350 SRW 6.0L CC SB 4X4
2006 Outfitter Apex 8, 220W Solar and 3 AGM's
2013 Jeep Rubicon

sabconsulting
Explorer
Explorer
Beautiful area. I've only been through there once and quite briefly - it clearly deserves a dedicated trip in its own right.

Thanks for sharing.

Steve.
'07 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab diesel + '91 Shadow Cruiser - Sky Cruiser 1
'98 Jeep TJ 4.0
'15 Ford Fiesta ST
'09 Fiat Panda 1.2

big_whitey
Explorer
Explorer
Great TR, gorgeous part of the country and one of my favorites. We are planning our second trip out west next spring. My compliments on the great pics. Thanks again for sharing.

ticki2
Explorer
Explorer
Thank goodness for TR's , thanks . My old girl is tucked away for winter snows .
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed

Fish_mojo
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for taking the time to post such a wonderful report. We did the full National Park loop thru Utah/N. AZ in early October.
Zion
Bryce Canyon
Capitol Reef
Canyonlands
Arches (and Moab for some OHV fun!)
Natural Bridges
Moki Dugway road (very cool!!)
Mexican Hat
Goosenecks
Lake Powell
North Rim GC

Trip of a lifetime I could do every year if I had the time.

SheepCamp
Explorer
Explorer
Bubtoofat, Those XJ's are great jeeps. DW loves her's. Not overbuilt (like mine), just a good lift and swapped axles with ARB's. Will go anywhere she wants to go. If you head this way with a jeep (or camper) drop us a line.

Flaxi, DW and I mentioned you this last month. Talking about all the wonderful people we have met through our TC. Hope all is well on your side of the pond

Whazoo, we actually were talking about you during the trip. Would have been too strange to have run into you (but I wished we had). As for the weather, you know a shady spot to park with cool drinks and lamb chops on the BBQ. We owe Ms Whazoo some too.
01 F350 CC SRW 7.3 Diesel
05 Lance 845
96 Jeep Cherokee, Beaches of Baja
79 Jeep CJ7, Moab Rocks

spacedoutbob
Explorer
Explorer
Fantastic Trip Report and Photos, Thank you very much for posting them. I noticed that on one of the photos of the petroglyphs they remind me of astronauts with helmets. What do you think?

Bob in Calif.
Good Sam Club Life Member