Sep-02-2013 05:53 PM
Sep-07-2013 08:31 AM
Olsy wrote:Gdetrailer wrote:Olsy wrote:
Gdetrailer, my truck is basically new off the lot, i waited the required 800km (500 miles) to tow, and same problem...i stopped by the storage lot on the way home and noticed the same trailer parked a few spots over, so i backed up and plugged in (i asked permission first from security) and had no issues so IT'S for sure my trailer, which i suspected all along anyways...i always planned to re wire anyways (and trust me here it is not something i cant handle), i am trying to gather as much info as i can before i tackle this (i dont think will take to long anyways). If it doesnt solve the problem i will try paralleling another set of mags ( which i do believe is hoaky as you stated, but i'd rather have brakes than no brakes), in a side note, wouldnt it be cheaper and more effective to simply put a resistor in parallel versus mags, just a thought (a load is a load)
Resistors would be cheaper but they would not have enough inductance required to create the return impulse that the brake controller is looking for (remember that the controller sends a pulse then it listens for the returned pulse from the magnets).
Resistors would present extra CURRENT load but that is not what the controller is looking for. It is looking for the size and timing of the return pulse to determine if the brakes are present.
One of the biggest problem about adding extra magnets is that the extra magnets could potentially "steal" more of the braking current from the other magnets.
Basically ohms law at work.. adding the extra magnets CLOSER to the front of the trailer means that they offer a lower resistance than the magnets at the far end at the axles due to resistance in the extra wire PLUS all the bad or poor connections at the axles. The result is the front magnets soak up more power and the farthest away magnets get less (and those are the ones that NEED the most to stop you :E ).
I am just amazed at what lengths of laziness folks are willing to do just to get it on the road :E
By using a heavier ga wire you reduce the resistance of the wire which in turn provides higher voltage to the magnets which allows the magnets to draw more current which gives stronger magnetic field which makes for much stronger braking. Fixing old crimp splices goes a long way to reduce the resistance of the splices (weather really gets to non protected outdoor splices).
My setup I only need to set my IBC at 4.5 out of 10 (less than HALF of the controller output) to get strong braking. To me, that is worth the time and effort :B
Good call, i never thought of the inductance since it is an inductor versus a resistor...thanks for the input
Sep-06-2013 08:44 PM
Gdetrailer wrote:Olsy wrote:
Gdetrailer, my truck is basically new off the lot, i waited the required 800km (500 miles) to tow, and same problem...i stopped by the storage lot on the way home and noticed the same trailer parked a few spots over, so i backed up and plugged in (i asked permission first from security) and had no issues so IT'S for sure my trailer, which i suspected all along anyways...i always planned to re wire anyways (and trust me here it is not something i cant handle), i am trying to gather as much info as i can before i tackle this (i dont think will take to long anyways). If it doesnt solve the problem i will try paralleling another set of mags ( which i do believe is hoaky as you stated, but i'd rather have brakes than no brakes), in a side note, wouldnt it be cheaper and more effective to simply put a resistor in parallel versus mags, just a thought (a load is a load)
Resistors would be cheaper but they would not have enough inductance required to create the return impulse that the brake controller is looking for (remember that the controller sends a pulse then it listens for the returned pulse from the magnets).
Resistors would present extra CURRENT load but that is not what the controller is looking for. It is looking for the size and timing of the return pulse to determine if the brakes are present.
One of the biggest problem about adding extra magnets is that the extra magnets could potentially "steal" more of the braking current from the other magnets.
Basically ohms law at work.. adding the extra magnets CLOSER to the front of the trailer means that they offer a lower resistance than the magnets at the far end at the axles due to resistance in the extra wire PLUS all the bad or poor connections at the axles. The result is the front magnets soak up more power and the farthest away magnets get less (and those are the ones that NEED the most to stop you :E ).
I am just amazed at what lengths of laziness folks are willing to do just to get it on the road :E
By using a heavier ga wire you reduce the resistance of the wire which in turn provides higher voltage to the magnets which allows the magnets to draw more current which gives stronger magnetic field which makes for much stronger braking. Fixing old crimp splices goes a long way to reduce the resistance of the splices (weather really gets to non protected outdoor splices).
My setup I only need to set my IBC at 4.5 out of 10 (less than HALF of the controller output) to get strong braking. To me, that is worth the time and effort :B
Sep-06-2013 07:46 PM
Olsy wrote:
Gdetrailer, my truck is basically new off the lot, i waited the required 800km (500 miles) to tow, and same problem...i stopped by the storage lot on the way home and noticed the same trailer parked a few spots over, so i backed up and plugged in (i asked permission first from security) and had no issues so IT'S for sure my trailer, which i suspected all along anyways...i always planned to re wire anyways (and trust me here it is not something i cant handle), i am trying to gather as much info as i can before i tackle this (i dont think will take to long anyways). If it doesnt solve the problem i will try paralleling another set of mags ( which i do believe is hoaky as you stated, but i'd rather have brakes than no brakes), in a side note, wouldnt it be cheaper and more effective to simply put a resistor in parallel versus mags, just a thought (a load is a load)
Sep-06-2013 07:10 PM
Sep-06-2013 07:04 PM
Sep-06-2013 05:30 PM
Olsy wrote:numberseven wrote:
1st the GM controller works great!!! but it is to sensitive and you need to install two electric brake magnets on the truck or trailer frame and hook them into the circut all the time, Just put one on each side of the frame and put a bolt through them and wire them in.
This will give it more LOAD and will work fine.
2nd You need to open the fuse box under the hood and make sure the large wire is hooked up and fuse installed, there is also one for the battery charge line.
If you follow this you will be very happy with the new unit, for further info log into "thedieselplace.com" and you can read all about it
This is what i was referring to in previous post at the beginning....these magnets you speak of, are they simply the same magnet i would find in my brake housing? If so how would you go about installing them? In parallel with each individual break or could i put to at the beginning or end the circuit? How would i physically install them? In some sort of an enclosure?
Do you have a link to good write up for this?
Thanks again!
Sep-06-2013 09:59 AM
numberseven wrote:
1st the GM controller works great!!! but it is to sensitive and you need to install two electric brake magnets on the truck or trailer frame and hook them into the circut all the time, Just put one on each side of the frame and put a bolt through them and wire them in.
This will give it more LOAD and will work fine.
2nd You need to open the fuse box under the hood and make sure the large wire is hooked up and fuse installed, there is also one for the battery charge line.
If you follow this you will be very happy with the new unit, for further info log into "thedieselplace.com" and you can read all about it
Sep-06-2013 07:21 AM
jamnw wrote:
This is great info. Does anyone have links to a good crimper and connectors?
I'm not currently having any issues but my OEM connectors are junk.
Sep-06-2013 07:15 AM
Sep-06-2013 06:53 AM
Sep-06-2013 06:33 AM
Olsy wrote:
Great posts Gdetrailer, lots of good info, i dont have much experience with automotive or trailer wiring but have LOTS of construction electrician experience, so this stuff is somewhat new to me but i get the basics... i am planning to do the re wire ad previously stated....the other brakes do run inside the axle, my only confusion is whether to run new just to the pigtail from each brake magnet or go right to the termination, im not real comfortable messing with actual brakes themselves..
Thanks aflgain
Sep-05-2013 07:31 PM
Sep-05-2013 04:11 PM
Olsy wrote:
Is there any special wire to use for this or can i simply use #10 stranded? Is there a certain type of insulation i should be looking?
Im pretty sure that the wire used was #16 but thats just off of memory
Sep-05-2013 04:01 PM
Olsy wrote:
Should i redo the actual termination to the brake or just run new wire to each brake pigtail?