trailer rock

[TheGreatWaz00]

I have a Roo 23SS but my question (I am hoping) is not hybrid specific.

We get rocking in our camper when walking (notice I said walking and not "sleeping" 🙂 ) in it. I use an X chock on one side (not both) and jacks at the four corners.

I am thinking I don't crank the corner stabilizer jacks down enough???

What is the general rule of thumb to cranking them down? How much should I "lift" the camper?

Cheers~

[Retired_JSO]

I installed additional 7,500 lb rated, scissors stabilizers just in front of the tires. Upon leveling the trailer, I crank them down hard then do the four corners. As a result, I have no noticeable movement.

[Need-A-Vacation]

tragusa3 wrote:
In addition to whats been mentioned, I make sure to roll the trailer into one chock before placing the other. This makes for very tight chocking. I can tell when we take the extra time to do this and when we don't.

X2!!!

The first thing you should do before unhooking the tv is to chock the trailer wheels!!! I set one on each side, then using the tv which is still hooked up, I also "roll" the trailer tires into that wheel chock (that is on each side) and then set the e-brake. At that time my wife and/or boys will place the other chock on each side. Then once they are clear I will release the e-brake, and the tt wheels "settle" nice and tight into the wheel chocks.

What type of stabilizer jacks do you have, the scissor jacks or the other style (forget the name at the moment!)? The scissor jacks are a little more stable from what I understand (only style I have ever had).

After leveling front to rear, I then set the stabilizer jack. Once they tough, I will give about a 1/4-1/2 turn depending on just how tight they feel. Don't go to far as you can tweak your trailer frame. I usually will get the trailer plugged in, water hooked up, and slides out. After that I will then set the x-chocks to help prevent any rocking. Doing it in this order allows the tires to cool some more, so the x-chocks stay a little tighter than if setting them right away.

When raising or lowering the trailer tongue, the x-chocks should not be installed as they can be damaged. Do not rely on only the x-chock to prevent the trailer from rolling away either. There are reports of those who did just that having a runaway trailer!!!

[2manytoyz]

Our TT has 4 crank down stabilizers. They certainly help, but don't stop the rocking when walking to the other end of the trailer.

I bought a set of BAL wheel chocks, looked like this:



Unfortunately, my trailer tires are so close to one another, this type of device is too wide to fit.

I made a set out of a 4x4 wooden post, and a couple of Pony clamps.





This completely fixed the issue.

[tragusa3]

In addition to whats been mentioned, I make sure to roll the trailer into one chock before placing the other. This makes for very tight chocking. I can tell when we take the extra time to do this and when we don't.

[Alabama_Jim]

It looks like the topic has been covered. I will just add that when my 4 corner jacks hit the ground I give them 2 turns to assure they are snug. Slight rocking will occur when walking, but it is minimal and does not cause annoyance.

[Passin_Thru]

Use bigger Rocks? I use screw jacks under the slider and crank my 4 corners down pretty solid. Don't lift the trailer.

[LIKE2BUILD]

My TT is very long and we've always noticed rocking. My solution was to put threaded jacks against the frame right in front of the trailer wheels. This helps take the leaf springs out of the mix and eliminate flex in the middle of the trailer frame. Once I started doing this my trailer felt much more firm.

KJ

[tatest]

Question is how much can you tolerate. Most lightweight TTs, even if you put jacks under the frame and lifted them off the suspension, will still have somewhat bouncy floors when you walk around. That's part of the lightweight compromise, and the Roo is about as lightweight as RV construction can get.

Cranking harder on the corner jacks, which are mounted under the floor rather than under the frame, will not help that much and can possibly warp the house structure. Immobilizing the wheels can help some, but you can still get tire and suspension bounce so long as part of the weight is supported by the suspension.

I find the same issue in stick and brick houses. The lightweight trussed floors used since the 1980s are a whole lot less stable than 1920s joist construction, and neither is as solid as walking on a concrete slab.

[the_bear_II]

We used these http://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Stack-Jacks/14504363

The goal is to get as much weight off of the suspension so I used one of these jacks at each corner of the frame. Most of the time I was able to get the tires off of the ground and the trailer was rock solid even when sleeping..wink, wink, nod, nod...

[cbshoestring]

The stabilizer are not really designed to "lift", but once mine touch the ground I give them an extra little turn...less than a quarter turn- just a little ummmfff.

Since they will settle on many surfaces (dirt/gravel/grass) I check them daily to see if they need snugged up.

Please remember that an RV is not a house. It is designed to wiggle, rock & roll. You may not need to tip-toe around the RV, but you can't go stomping around either.

[Oasisbob]

I hve noticed over many years of camping that the rock increases the longr we stay. Starts out minimal increases. I chock both sides and do one complete revolution of the crank handle after touch down. Not sure if this is correct?