Trailer Tires

[chrisbailey13]

I did not author this, I am only sharing information I found.

Trailer Tire Applications•Trailer tires are designed for use on trailer axle positions only. They are not built to handle the loads applied to, or the traction required by, drive or steering axles.

•An "LT" designation on a trailer tire size specifies load range only. It is not designed for use on light trucks.

•Do not mount "ST" or "LT" trailer tires on passenger cars or light trucks.

Inflation•Always inflate trailer tires to the maximum inflation indicated on the sidewall.

•Check inflation when the tires are cool and have not been exposed to the sun.

•If the tires are hot to the touch from operation, add three psi to the max inflation.

•Underinflation is the number one cause of trailer tire failure.
Load Carrying Capacity

•All tires must be identical in size for the tires to properly manage the weight of the trailer.

•The combined capacity of the tires must equal or exceed the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) of the axle.

•The combined capacity of all of the tires should exceed the loaded trailer weight by 20 percent.

•If the actual weight is not available, use the trailer GVW. If a tire fails on a tandem axle trailer, you should replace both tires on that side. The remaining tire is likely to have been subjected to excessive loading.

•If the tires are replaced with tires of larger diameter, the tongue height may need to be adjusted to maintain proper weight distribution.
Speed•All "ST" tires have a maximum speed rating of 65 mph.

•As heat builds up, the tire's structure starts to disintegrate and weaken.

•The load carrying capacity gradually decreases as the heat and stresses generated by higher speed increases.
Time•Time and the elements weaken a trailer tire.

•In approximately three years, roughly one-third of the tire's strength is gone.

•Three to five years is the projected life of a normal trailer tire.

•It is suggested that trailer tires be replaced after three to four years of service regardless of tread depth or tire appearance.
Mileage

•Trailer tires are not designed to wear out.

•The life of a trailer tire is limited by time and duty cycles.

•The mileage expectation of a trailer tire is 5,000 to 12,000 miles.
Why Use An "ST" Tire•"ST" tires feature materials and construction to meet the higher load requirements and demands of trailering.

•The polyester cords are bigger than they would be for a comparable "P" or "LT" tire.

•The steel cords have a larger diameter and greater tensile strength to meet the additional load requirements.

•"ST" tire rubber compounds contain more chemicals to resist weather and ozone cracking.
Storage

•The ideal storage for trailer tires is in a cool, dark garage at maximum inflation.

•Use tire covers to protect the tires from direct sunlight.

•Use thin plywood sections between the tire and the pavement.

•For long term storage, put the trailer on blocks to take the weight off the tires. Then lower the air pressure and cover the tires to protect them from direct sunlight.
Maintenance•Clean the tires using mild soap and water.

•Do not use tire-care products containing alcohol or petroleum distillates.

•Inspect the tires for any cuts, snags, bulges or punctures.

•Check the inflation before towing and again before the return trip.
Keys to Avoiding Trouble•Make sure your rig is equipped with the proper tires.

•Maintain the tires meticulously.

•Replace trailer tires every three to five years, whether they look like they're worn out or not.

These facts are courtesy of Discount Tire.

[Vulcan_Rider]

Huntindog wrote:
I think 3 psi would be a minimum.
It should probably be better said as a percentage.

It is probably better to say: Don't ever let air OUT of a hot tire.....unless you have good reason to suspect that someone recently screwed it up....OR the pressure is WAY out of line....like 50% over the max.

[Huntindog]

I think 3 psi would be a minimum.
It should probably be better said as a percentage.
Using three psi on a tire rated for 35 psi is not the same as one rated for 80.

Of course I am not a so called expert.

[Vulcan_Rider]

Rdn6405 wrote:

•If the tires are hot to the touch from operation, add three psi to the max inflation.


They are saying that when you check the air on a tire that is hot that you should add 3 psi to the max inflation.

Well yes, come to think of it, that does make more sense. :B

[Rdn6405]

klutchdust wrote:

Vulcan Rider wrote:

chrisbailey13 wrote:


Inflation•Always inflate trailer tires to the maximum inflation indicated on the sidewall.

•If the tires are hot to the touch from operation, add three psi to the max inflation.


These facts are courtesy of Discount Tire.

Most of those points can be considered "facts"; some shouldn't be.

My trailer plus load NEVER exceeds half of the load rating of the tires. Therefore using the max. inflation pressure will result in poor contact area, increased center wear and a harsher ride than necessary. It won't really hurt anything but the tires will wear out quicker. This situation is preferred to under-inflation though.

Tires will ALWAYS be "hot to the touch" after driving in the summertime. Blindly following this recommendation, especially combined with the other one above, could result in a dangerous situation. What if you feel them again in a few hundred miles and the STILL are HOT ???

I thought the same thing concerning the tires being hot. I carry a temperature checker and would compare tires during a trip.A difference in temperature and i would use a pressure gauge. Next time

you walk past a big rig at a rest area just touch one of the tires on the drive axle.A little warm aye?

You guys don't really believe that discount tire is suggesting that you add three psi blindly every time your tires feel hot to the touch do you? They are saying that when you check the air on a tire that is hot that you should add 3 psi to the max inflation. If max inflation is 50 and you check them before you start you trip they should be set at 50. If you check them on a pit stop during your trip without the tires having time to cool, they should be at 53. Air expands as it heats up.

[stufarmer]

May Pop's ST Tires made in Korea or China.

May Pop's LT Tires made in Korea or China.

Dependable Tires, LT's from Japan ( Toyo, Nitto ) American made ( ??? )

[dave54]

fla-gypsy wrote:

Vulcan Rider wrote:

fla-gypsy wrote:
There are many half truths in this document meant to generate tire sales

Can't believe I missed that.
Now to go back and read it again.
Marketing propaganda takes many different forms.

I counted 12 contradictions, lies, marketing hype and half truths in this list attributed to Direct Tire. I'm not sure they put this together but if they did I would never buy a tire from them.

I agree. Poorly written.
Do not put LT tires on a truck??? I believe the author meant to say do not put a used LT tire on a passenger vehicle or truck if it has been previously used on a trailer. Once on a trailer, always on a trailer. Don't reuse it on a passenger vehicle.

[capsfloyd]

Lionshead is who FR831RKSS uses. Have NO RESPECT for them . 2012 Flagstaff had less than 500 mile had a complete Tire failure. Took forever to replace 1 Tire.

[pira114]

That's bizarre

[bobndot]

Huntindog wrote:

RJsfishin wrote:
Best bet is don't drive in hot weather.
Next best bet is always start w/ max pressure on sidewall, then adjust for treadwear. And if loaded to the max or more, add to the sidewall pressure to keep heat down. Better to have center treadwear than have it come apart. And it will come apart in hot weather if running hot.
Yep, I used to work for a tire shop, I seen it all.
Me ??? Very simple,.... I just don't drive in hot weather, period !

That's pretty easy for you to say.
How hot does it get in oregon?
If I didn't drive in hot weather, then there is many months of the year where I couldn't drive at all. Hot weather in Phoenix AZ is a way of life.
Getting up to the cool mountains offers some respite, but in order to get there, one must drive in hot weather.. No matter. Good LT tires can handle it just fine.

:B I actually thought the same as you.
Maybe an air conditioned indoor campsite would work . I found this pic and couldn't resist . I'll bet there are no rainwater leaks either.

[2012Coleman]

IMO the three major causes of tire failures are:

Don't forget age.

[LarryJM]

fla-gypsy wrote:
There are many half truths in this document meant to generate tire sales

That's my take also and I sure don't view it as a reliable technical document, but mostly advertising hype to generate sales.

I would like to add a couple of my own "TIRE IDEAS/PHILOSOPHIES" based on my personal experiences of over 40 years towing with well north of 100K miles towing. All this has been using ST tires mainly the dreaded GY Marathons (since 1996 until two years ago when I went to the Kumho 857 tires) which have typically been loaded to within 100 to 200 lbs of their max load capacity for the GYs. During that time I have had two flats (no blow outs) and call me unlucky the only tread separation has been with one of the recent Kumhos that were only 18mos old and had less than 4,000 miles on it. Oh I'm also paranoid about keeping my speed under 65 and always inflat to the max sidewall pressure.

IMO the three major causes of tire failures are:

1. Excessive speed
2. Under inflation
3. Tire damage due to overloading or road hazards.

This last one is IMO probably the most important and again IMO comes from two not so obvious sources. If one has a flat with most stock sized tires this will cause the other tire on that side to be "SERIOUSLY OVERLOADED" with it being damaged with it's max load carrying capacity seriously compromised. Thus with the normal lack of real excess tire load capacity on stock OEM tires that means unless you replace that apparantly "good" tire you will be running around on a tire most likely "overloaded" all the time and this can result in the catastrophic "blow out" or tread separation scenario at some point down the road. Thus one of my rules is if I have a flat on the trailer "BOTH TIRES" on that side are replaced and will only use that potentially overloaded and compromised tire that did not go flat on the side of the trailer I had a flat on as an emergency spare. Another serious issue IMO is what I called road hazards and outside of the normal "curbing type" issues the poor conditions of a lot of our interstates is "TIRE HADES" due to the "INTERSTATE POTHOLES" mainly in the right side of the right lane. Anyone that has traveled I-95 thru SC and NC know what I'm talking about. Hitting these at interstate speeds over say a couple of hundred miles can IMO basically DESTROY what ever tire load capacity that tire had before you started beating those tires to death. I'm paranoid about this and when I encouter this issue I try and avoid these "Interstate Pothole" like the plague. To do this I'm with in the right lane or straddling the left and right lane only moving over to my normal right lane travel when someone is overtaking me. I have also been known to straddle the right side edge/shoulder in heavier traffic as long as the shoulder is good and clear of debris. All this requires a trememdous amount of extra attention and can really be tiresome and makes a 300 mile day feel like I have driven 1,000 miles.

In fact I have actually replace both tires on the passenger side of my trailer "TWICE" because of either a single or multiple "SERIOUS" "INTERSTATE POTHOLE" encounters in the last 30+ years I have lived on the East Coast. None of these tires went flat or were visibly damaged, but I could not further trust them and the $200 or so IMO was well worth the cost to potentially avoid a real tire failure and the resulting damage to the trailer for any tread separation.



Larry

[pira114]

Easiest way to safely get the most out of your tires is to bring the trailer home from the dealership, put it up on blocks, remove the tires, and never move the trailer again. Ever. I bet I could at least double the life of the tires that way.

Or I could realize tires are a wearable part and not stress over it. Couple hundred bucks over the course of a few years is not bad. Especially considering these trailers are basically toys, not necessities.

I buy ST tires, usually Hercules, about once every 3 or 4 years. If one blows out, I don't typically freak out. I usually just put the spare on and figure on replacing at least two tires when the trip is over.

If I find the Shaman spell that turns a tire into a miracle, I'll share it. For a price

[rbpru]

It is easy to call them half-truths, falsehoods, advertising hype etc. but they published it and made it available to the public. That means they can be sued if the above is not true.

How many of the would-be experts voiced here would be willing to defend their statements in court?

Personally I go by the end users recommendation, that is why my DW’s van tires are inflated to 36 lbs. while and my half-ton’s tires are only inflated to 32 lbs. That is what the vehicle designers recommend for day to day driving.

When I am towing at or near the Max cargo I run the tire pressure up. I do this because I like it when the tires are not squatty.

I also run ST on my TT because I have never seen any tire manufacturer advertise the LT or P tire for trailer use. If they would rather lose sales than sell their tires for trailer service, there must be a reason.

I have seen ST tires advertised for TT use in the RV magazines. They were not afraid to stand behind their product.

We are all free to choose based on our own reasoning. The above is mine. These choices are not a test, they are not a race, and they will not appear on your permanent record.

[SprinklerMan]

chrisbailey13 wrote:


•An "LT" designation on a trailer tire size specifies load range only. It is not designed for use on light trucks.

•Do not mount "ST" or "LT" trailer tires on passenger cars or light trucks.


These facts are courtesy of Discount Tire.

I wouldnt call these facts .