Water heater won't work on electric

[facory]

The water heater suddenly quit working on electric. I have checked the distribution panel and the breaker and fuse is OK. I have also pushed the reset but found that it was not tripped. How can I check the heating element to see if that is working? Any other suggestions/fixes?

[facory]

Tried to replace the heating element today only to find that the opening to the element is not large enough to allow a socket to fit into it. It must take a special thin wall socket. Wouldn't you think they would make it more serviceable? Anyway, I will have to wait until I get back home to see what I have in the shop. In the meantime it will run on gas.

[CavemanCharlie]

TT are often built with unusual sized stuff. You will often find the screws that hold the cabinets and stuff together require a square head bit that's a little weird too. I think it's called a #10 or something like that. You may want to check it out and add it to your travel collection.

[facory]

Found a dealer today and purchased a replacement element for $31.50. I had to buy two new sockets - anode rod and element - to do the replacement. I carry many tools with me when traveling but not these odd size sockets. We are over 1k miles from home and don't have the convenience of the home shop. Oh well, that's life on the road. Also had to replace the CO/propane sensor. Expensive little bugger. The hard wired version set me back $73. Simple replacement though and I feel much better now that I know it will work.

[Ozlander]

But the stealer needs the money.

[clangille]

Yes its is replaceable. You can buy them from an rv place for about 15$. Go to Home Depot and buy the element replacement tool about 5$. Very simple to replace it.

[CavemanCharlie]

facory wrote:
Anybody know if the heating element is replaceable in a Suburban 6 gal. heater?

Yes, it is replaceable.

[evanrem]

I burned out mine and it cost about $100 to have it replaced.

[facory]

Anybody know if the heating element is replaceable in a Suburban 6 gal. heater?

[USAFBILL]

facory wrote:
My suspicion is that the element has gone bad. I can run it on propane and will get by OK. I just like to have things working as they should. Once I get to a dealer I will have them change the element.
Thanks

X2

[facory]

My suspicion is that the element has gone bad. I can run it on propane and will get by OK. I just like to have things working as they should. Once I get to a dealer I will have them change the element.
Thanks

[handye9]

If you're positive breaker, reset, fuses are all OK, only thing left is the element. You should still be able to run it on propane.

If you are familiar with a multimeter, here are a couple tests to do on the heating element.

Measure voltage across terminals on heat element when it SHOULD be operating. Voltage should be same as what you read from any of the wall outlets in the RV.

Turn off the power to the heater (turn off breaker or disconnect shore power), disconnect the two (or three) wires of the element, and measure resistance between terminals. Around 10 to 15 ohms (if I'm not mistaken) indicates element is good. No resistance, element is bad.

Measure resistance from each terminal to "Ground" (Green screw or bare wire). It should be "open circuit" (Same as test leads not touching anything).