WD Hitch, Still a large amount of sway occasionally... help

[T3rry1]

Hey all, I purchased a (used) E2 truunion 10k WD hitch for my trailer, the trailer is relatively small, it's a aerolite cub hybrid, about 20ft closed up, 4000 lbs loaded up...

I installed this hitch by the book, followed all of the instructions, but on a recent trip i was changing lanes during a rainstorm and the trailer swayed quite heavily, it only happened a couple of times during the trip, and i could attribute some of it to rutty roads. The only other thing i could think is lack of tongue weight, would this effect it? i recently moved my batteries inside the trailer for security reasons, and to get 250 lbs off the tongue (4x 6v's, moved to just in front of the axle, under the table bench, vented outside.), but i just wanted to put out a feeler to see if there are any tricks people could suggest to ensure everything is set up as intended.

unfortunately at this moment the trailer is 5 hours from me, so i am just collecting info to try some tweaks next time i am pulling it (in a few weeks)

this is a pic of the wd hitch, just for reference, i dont have any pics of it installed on the trailer.

[LarryJM]

Huntindog wrote:

LarryJM wrote:

RinconVTR wrote:

Huntindog wrote:



This style of hitch is what is refferred to as an integrated sway control hitch. There are several of them on the market. Most of them including yours relies on TW for the sway control. The more TW, the more friction, and the more sway control. There are some smaller sized ones said to work with lightewr TW TTs... But yours at 10K isn't one of them. Bigger isn't always better. If you wear size 10 shoes, you will be best served with size 10 shoes... Not size 12s rhat you may grow into someday.
In short your hitch is the wrong tool for the job.

You were giving good accurate advice in the first half of this, then it went to h e double L.

One could have the highest rated WDH, and never have any effect on sway, good or bad. The only downside to having too much WDH if ride comfort and possibly un-do stress on a lightweight trailer.

I ran my 4500lb TT with 600lb bars for a couple years, then tried 1k bars. Much improved ride, ironically. Less bounce. Now pulling with a Hensley, I started off with the 1k bars and could not be happier.

In short, the WDH is NOT the issue here, especially if the OP set it up by the book. It anything, add one more washer in the head and give that a try. Otherwise, the last post is about all you have left, shifting weight around, mostly to the front. And make sure there is nothing heavy packed in the back of the trailer.

Also, double check your tires. Worn bias plys tend to round and wear funny allowing more sway than "normal". A nice set of radials may help straighten things out too.

I was fixing to post very close to what you said above when I read Huntindog's comment about the WDH not being the right one for the job since I agree with your statements about what effect is of having too heavy of a WDH for the actual trailer. I too think the real issues are weights and trailer attitude (nose high?) and what is needed now are facts and not WAGS.

Larry

Larry, your hensley is one of the few "integrated" sway control hitches that does not rely on TW for sway control.

The OP would be best served with the right sized hitch. Too big can actually damage the TT frame in some cases. They make different sizes for a reason.

1. I don't have a HA, but an Equal-i-zer.

2. Your comment on potential damage to the TT frame is valid and was one of the two concerns in the post I was agreeing to which said " un-do stress on a lightweight trailer".

3. In general if starting out from scratch I do agree that you should generally match the WDH system rating to what you are using it for within reason. However, even Equal-i-zer has in multiple responses to member's inquiries here have said using their system with a higher capability than needed is not an issue. Now how much is too much is IMO somewhat open for discussion. I'm not sure of why Equal-i-zer added their "cub" version or whatever it's called, but before that the lowest system they offered was the 1K/10K until the lower rated system(s)? were offered.

To the OP unless you have complaints and can't live with whatever ride quality your current WDH system has using a 1K/10K on any trailers with a tongue wt. in excess or around 400 to 500 lbs or on a receiver that has a wt. rating for WDH system I would personally not be concerned with using a 1K/10K system. Now I definitly would not be using say a Reese 1.7K/17K system for a tongue wt. expected to be only 500lbs. Case in point was when I bought my current trailer I knew my tongue wt. would be limited to 1K (stock receiver rating) and the trailer has a listed dry TW of close to 600lbs. At that time Equal-i-zer offered three systems ... 1K, 1.2K and 1.4K and I chose the 1.2K rated system.

Larry

[Wishin]

westend wrote:

not a possibility, like i said, the trailer if 5 hours away (and obviously half the hitch is attached to/in the trailer), and i wont be at it again before my camping trip, which will be followed by an 8 hour drive home, so i am looking for tweaks and changes i can make while camping so i can get it home safely.

I'd suggest to load most of the heavier weight items on the opposite side from the batteries. If I'm understanding it correctly, you moved 280 lbs of batteries off the tongue and to one side of the trailer. That may be contributing to the sway situation.

That is a good point and something to consider. It could also be overloading the tires on that side of the trailer.

To the OP, if you have a storage box and bikes on the back and have moved the batteries off the tongue and based on your earlier scale weights, I agree with most others that the biggest "likely" issue is the lack of tongue weight. The sway control should work fine on this hitch even tough it is over sized. I'd be more concerned that it might stress your frame more than an appropriately sized hitch. Most light weight trailers that I've heard have a limit on w/d hitch bars usually have the limit at 1000 lbs for bar rating. You're probably fine, does your trailer have a limit?

Your current plan of moving weight forward is a good one. Making sure the trailer is level or slightly nose down is a good one too, but not as critical.

[westend]

not a possibility, like i said, the trailer if 5 hours away (and obviously half the hitch is attached to/in the trailer), and i wont be at it again before my camping trip, which will be followed by an 8 hour drive home, so i am looking for tweaks and changes i can make while camping so i can get it home safely.

I'd suggest to load most of the heavier weight items on the opposite side from the batteries. If I'm understanding it correctly, you moved 280 lbs of batteries off the tongue and to one side of the trailer. That may be contributing to the sway situation.

[campigloo]

One thing you might try, once you add some TW, is back off just a little on the spring bars. Having the trailer ride a little nose down is preferable.

[Huntindog]

LarryJM wrote:

RinconVTR wrote:

Huntindog wrote:



This style of hitch is what is refferred to as an integrated sway control hitch. There are several of them on the market. Most of them including yours relies on TW for the sway control. The more TW, the more friction, and the more sway control. There are some smaller sized ones said to work with lightewr TW TTs... But yours at 10K isn't one of them. Bigger isn't always better. If you wear size 10 shoes, you will be best served with size 10 shoes... Not size 12s rhat you may grow into someday.
In short your hitch is the wrong tool for the job.

You were giving good accurate advice in the first half of this, then it went to h e double L.

One could have the highest rated WDH, and never have any effect on sway, good or bad. The only downside to having too much WDH if ride comfort and possibly un-do stress on a lightweight trailer.

I ran my 4500lb TT with 600lb bars for a couple years, then tried 1k bars. Much improved ride, ironically. Less bounce. Now pulling with a Hensley, I started off with the 1k bars and could not be happier.

In short, the WDH is NOT the issue here, especially if the OP set it up by the book. It anything, add one more washer in the head and give that a try. Otherwise, the last post is about all you have left, shifting weight around, mostly to the front. And make sure there is nothing heavy packed in the back of the trailer.

Also, double check your tires. Worn bias plys tend to round and wear funny allowing more sway than "normal". A nice set of radials may help straighten things out too.

I was fixing to post very close to what you said above when I read Huntindog's comment about the WDH not being the right one for the job since I agree with your statements about what effect is of having too heavy of a WDH for the actual trailer. I too think the real issues are weights and trailer attitude (nose high?) and what is needed now are facts and not WAGS.

Larry

Larry, your hensley is one of the few "integrated" sway control hitches that does not rely on TW for sway control.

The OP would be best served with the right sized hitch. Too big can actually damage the TT frame in some cases. They make different sizes for a reason.

[LarryJM]

RinconVTR wrote:

Huntindog wrote:



This style of hitch is what is refferred to as an integrated sway control hitch. There are several of them on the market. Most of them including yours relies on TW for the sway control. The more TW, the more friction, and the more sway control. There are some smaller sized ones said to work with lightewr TW TTs... But yours at 10K isn't one of them. Bigger isn't always better. If you wear size 10 shoes, you will be best served with size 10 shoes... Not size 12s rhat you may grow into someday.
In short your hitch is the wrong tool for the job.

You were giving good accurate advice in the first half of this, then it went to h e double L.

One could have the highest rated WDH, and never have any effect on sway, good or bad. The only downside to having too much WDH if ride comfort and possibly un-do stress on a lightweight trailer.

I ran my 4500lb TT with 600lb bars for a couple years, then tried 1k bars. Much improved ride, ironically. Less bounce. Now pulling with a Hensley, I started off with the 1k bars and could not be happier.

In short, the WDH is NOT the issue here, especially if the OP set it up by the book. It anything, add one more washer in the head and give that a try. Otherwise, the last post is about all you have left, shifting weight around, mostly to the front. And make sure there is nothing heavy packed in the back of the trailer.

Also, double check your tires. Worn bias plys tend to round and wear funny allowing more sway than "normal". A nice set of radials may help straighten things out too.

I was fixing to post very close to what you said above when I read Huntindog's comment about the WDH not being the right one for the job since I agree with your statements about what effect is of having too heavy of a WDH for the actual trailer. I too think the real issues are weights and trailer attitude (nose high?) and what is needed now are facts and not WAGS.

Larry

[colliehauler]

Just a guess on my part I would say not enough tongue weight. With a box and bikes on the back and moving your batteries I would say your to lite on the tongue. I like to have 15%.

[RinconVTR]

Huntindog wrote:



This style of hitch is what is refferred to as an integrated sway control hitch. There are several of them on the market. Most of them including yours relies on TW for the sway control. The more TW, the more friction, and the more sway control. There are some smaller sized ones said to work with lightewr TW TTs... But yours at 10K isn't one of them. Bigger isn't always better. If you wear size 10 shoes, you will be best served with size 10 shoes... Not size 12s rhat you may grow into someday.
In short your hitch is the wrong tool for the job.

You were giving good accurate advice in the first half of this, then it went to h e double L.

One could have the highest rated WDH, and never have any effect on sway, good or bad. The only downside to having too much WDH if ride comfort and possibly un-do stress on a lightweight trailer.

I ran my 4500lb TT with 600lb bars for a couple years, then tried 1k bars. Much improved ride, ironically. Less bounce. Now pulling with a Hensley, I started off with the 1k bars and could not be happier.

In short, the WDH is NOT the issue here, especially if the OP set it up by the book. It anything, add one more washer in the head and give that a try. Otherwise, the last post is about all you have left, shifting weight around, mostly to the front. And make sure there is nothing heavy packed in the back of the trailer.

Also, double check your tires. Worn bias plys tend to round and wear funny allowing more sway than "normal". A nice set of radials may help straighten things out too.

[T3rry1]

RedRocket204 wrote:

T3rry1 wrote:

Huntindog wrote:

T3rry1 wrote:
Hey all, I purchased a (used) E2 truunion 10k WD hitch for my trailer, the trailer is relatively small, it's a aerolite cub hybrid, about 20ft closed up, 4000 lbs loaded up...

I installed this hitch by the book, followed all of the instructions, but on a recent trip i was changing lanes during a rainstorm and the trailer swayed quite heavily, it only happened a couple of times during the trip, and i could attribute some of it to rutty roads. The only other thing i could think is lack of tongue weight, would this effect it? i recently moved my batteries inside the trailer for security reasons, and to get 250 lbs off the tongue (4x 6v's, moved to just in front of the axle, under the table bench, vented outside.), but i just wanted to put out a feeler to see if there are any tricks people could suggest to ensure everything is set up as intended.

unfortunately at this moment the trailer is 5 hours from me, so i am just collecting info to try some tweaks next time i am pulling it (in a few weeks)

this is a pic of the wd hitch, just for reference, i dont have any pics of it installed on the trailer.

This style of hitch is what is refferred to as an integrated sway control hitch. There are several of them on the market. Most of them including yours relies on TW for the sway control. The more TW, the more friction, and the more sway control. There are some smaller sized ones said to work with lightewr TW TTs... But yours at 10K isn't one of them. Bigger isn't always better. If you wear size 10 shoes, you will be best served with size 10 shoes... Not size 12s rhat you may grow into someday.
In short your hitch is the wrong tool for the job.

well i understand what you're saying, but honestly, buying a new hitch isn't an option, we're not all moneybags here... hence my post, trying to make due with what i have.

You could always post up locally for a trade to a lighter weight WDH hitch. Certainly won't hurt to try.

not a possibility, like i said, the trailer if 5 hours away (and obviously half the hitch is attached to/in the trailer), and i wont be at it again before my camping trip, which will be followed by an 8 hour drive home, so i am looking for tweaks and changes i can make while camping so i can get it home safely.

based on the responss here though, it looks like my best option is to get as much weight as far forward as i can, so i will do that, i'll move the batteries to the outside storage as far forward as possible, ad well as moving as much stuff as i can from my rear bumper storage box to the front storage, possbly even move the bikes from the rear hitch, to inside the trailer, or even on an accessory hitch between the truck and trailer, although i am sure the accessory hitch will be a no-no with the wd hitch too.

[RedRocket204]

T3rry1 wrote:

Huntindog wrote:

T3rry1 wrote:
Hey all, I purchased a (used) E2 truunion 10k WD hitch for my trailer, the trailer is relatively small, it's a aerolite cub hybrid, about 20ft closed up, 4000 lbs loaded up...

I installed this hitch by the book, followed all of the instructions, but on a recent trip i was changing lanes during a rainstorm and the trailer swayed quite heavily, it only happened a couple of times during the trip, and i could attribute some of it to rutty roads. The only other thing i could think is lack of tongue weight, would this effect it? i recently moved my batteries inside the trailer for security reasons, and to get 250 lbs off the tongue (4x 6v's, moved to just in front of the axle, under the table bench, vented outside.), but i just wanted to put out a feeler to see if there are any tricks people could suggest to ensure everything is set up as intended.

unfortunately at this moment the trailer is 5 hours from me, so i am just collecting info to try some tweaks next time i am pulling it (in a few weeks)

this is a pic of the wd hitch, just for reference, i dont have any pics of it installed on the trailer.

This style of hitch is what is refferred to as an integrated sway control hitch. There are several of them on the market. Most of them including yours relies on TW for the sway control. The more TW, the more friction, and the more sway control. There are some smaller sized ones said to work with lightewr TW TTs... But yours at 10K isn't one of them. Bigger isn't always better. If you wear size 10 shoes, you will be best served with size 10 shoes... Not size 12s rhat you may grow into someday.
In short your hitch is the wrong tool for the job.

well i understand what you're saying, but honestly, buying a new hitch isn't an option, we're not all moneybags here... hence my post, trying to make due with what i have.

You could always post up locally for a trade to a lighter weight WDH hitch. Certainly won't hurt to try.

[T3rry1]

Huntindog wrote:

T3rry1 wrote:
Hey all, I purchased a (used) E2 truunion 10k WD hitch for my trailer, the trailer is relatively small, it's a aerolite cub hybrid, about 20ft closed up, 4000 lbs loaded up...

I installed this hitch by the book, followed all of the instructions, but on a recent trip i was changing lanes during a rainstorm and the trailer swayed quite heavily, it only happened a couple of times during the trip, and i could attribute some of it to rutty roads. The only other thing i could think is lack of tongue weight, would this effect it? i recently moved my batteries inside the trailer for security reasons, and to get 250 lbs off the tongue (4x 6v's, moved to just in front of the axle, under the table bench, vented outside.), but i just wanted to put out a feeler to see if there are any tricks people could suggest to ensure everything is set up as intended.

unfortunately at this moment the trailer is 5 hours from me, so i am just collecting info to try some tweaks next time i am pulling it (in a few weeks)

this is a pic of the wd hitch, just for reference, i dont have any pics of it installed on the trailer.

This style of hitch is what is refferred to as an integrated sway control hitch. There are several of them on the market. Most of them including yours relies on TW for the sway control. The more TW, the more friction, and the more sway control. There are some smaller sized ones said to work with lightewr TW TTs... But yours at 10K isn't one of them. Bigger isn't always better. If you wear size 10 shoes, you will be best served with size 10 shoes... Not size 12s rhat you may grow into someday.
In short your hitch is the wrong tool for the job.

well i understand what you're saying, but honestly, buying a new hitch isn't an option, we're not all moneybags here... hence my post, trying to make due with what i have.

[Huntindog]

T3rry1 wrote:
Hey all, I purchased a (used) E2 truunion 10k WD hitch for my trailer, the trailer is relatively small, it's a aerolite cub hybrid, about 20ft closed up, 4000 lbs loaded up...

I installed this hitch by the book, followed all of the instructions, but on a recent trip i was changing lanes during a rainstorm and the trailer swayed quite heavily, it only happened a couple of times during the trip, and i could attribute some of it to rutty roads. The only other thing i could think is lack of tongue weight, would this effect it? i recently moved my batteries inside the trailer for security reasons, and to get 250 lbs off the tongue (4x 6v's, moved to just in front of the axle, under the table bench, vented outside.), but i just wanted to put out a feeler to see if there are any tricks people could suggest to ensure everything is set up as intended.

unfortunately at this moment the trailer is 5 hours from me, so i am just collecting info to try some tweaks next time i am pulling it (in a few weeks)

this is a pic of the wd hitch, just for reference, i dont have any pics of it installed on the trailer.

This style of hitch is what is refferred to as an integrated sway control hitch. There are several of them on the market. Most of them including yours relies on TW for the sway control. The more TW, the more friction, and the more sway control. There are some smaller sized ones said to work with lightewr TW TTs... But yours at 10K isn't one of them. Bigger isn't always better. If you wear size 10 shoes, you will be best served with size 10 shoes... Not size 12s rhat you may grow into someday.
In short your hitch is the wrong tool for the job.

[T3rry1]

Anyway, thanks all for the suggestions, i just wish the trailer wasn't so far away, it'll have to wait til my next trip to try out some of the suggestions, unfortunately the next trip is a week camping so i wont have a lot of tools/resources to make the required changes before an 8 hour drive home, but i'll do what i can. thanks.

[T3rry1]

dodge guy wrote:
Are you guessing on the tongue weight? Or do you know for certain. Also what is the exact loaded weight of the trailer?

before i added the WD and moved the battery, loaded was 4800 (sorry bad calculation from KG to lb on my previous post) and tongue was 640, i since removed a bunch of stuff from the trailer that we didn't use/need because it was at/over the overall rating for the trailer.. so i dont know the weight right now... finding public open scales around here isn't as easy as i'd hope.


My TV has a payload of 1432 and towing of 8800, so it's more than enough for this trailer.