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What's with the ridgey exterior walls on the Jayco TTs?

MookieKat
Explorer
Explorer
Why would they use the ridgey outside walls like that? It looks like it would create more wind resistance and be less aerodynamic. Also looks tough to keep clean! I have seen old TTs with dirt in every groove.
116 REPLIES 116

miltvill
Explorer II
Explorer II
You will have to be the judge on the quality of your TT. My light weight, entry level, laminated, no slide, inexpensive $14K TT with plastic drawers and a cheap mattress has been a great TT for the past five years. Mattress and tires have been replaced. But, the build quality of my TT is what sold me on my TT. Workmanship was really good. Yep I am ready to upgrade.
2020 GMC Denali\Duramax 3500HD Dually Crew Cab
Sold-Trail Cruiser TC23QB

jerem0621
Explorer II
Explorer II
When stick and tin has to be repaired they remove some siding and do the wood repair. When they have to repair laminate they have to replace entire wall sections.

Walk into any campground, USA and look at the laminated trailers. Especially the ones who are 5 plus years old. It's not uncommon for these trailers to have what looks like big blisters on the front of the trailers, many times on the back and around the windows. This is delamination. It could be water intrusion, it could simply be that the fiberglass has let go of the substrait.

IMHO this is a major reason why we see one piece fiberglass caps now. Fiberglass caps hold up very well aesthetically speaking.

For me, I prefer sticks and tin. But really if you have wall damage from a leak its a bad situation with either build method. Sticks and tin is easier for an experienced DIYer to repair at home. I have never read about an effective home brewed solution to delamination.

Thanks!

Jeremiah
TV-2022 Silverado 2WD
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Timothy
Explorer
Explorer
Most delamination occurs due to water damage that causes the luan plywood to seperate. As I understand the new Adzal (sp?) are not subject to this because even if subject to water damage it does not have layers that seperate like luan.

Delamination can also occur when defective glue is used.

People like what they have so take what you hear on here with a grain of salt. Go to some campgrounds and talk to the owners. The statement made about 1 in 3 smooth sided trailers delaminating has not been what I have observed and we have visited every state in our RV.

Bearhawk
Explorer
Explorer
I went with the tin sides because that was the trailer with the floorplan I liked. Although I did think at the time that if I should hit a tree it may be easier to repair than composites. Most new ones I see are smooth sided as that is what is in demand and they will build to suit demand. Lots of good advice here.
Bearhawk (n): A Plansbuilt Amature Aircraft. An expensive hobby that was replaced by 2007 29FBS Jayco Jayflight G2 & 2008 F350 Crew with 6.4L Diesel
At least this adventure flew off the drawing board and running out of fuel is not as dangerous! :B

TxTiger
Explorer
Explorer
Check out some of the KZ TT's. Many stick and tin, lightweight yet quality construction. My toy hauler has marine grade plywood flooring, (not OSB), walk on plywood roof decking, well equipped but nothing fancy, more than adequate axles, tires and wheels as opposed to marginal. 2 year warranty and great customer service.
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goducks10
Explorer
Explorer
PamfromVA wrote:
We had a 2007 Coachman TT fall apart on us. I think part of the problem is we use them for long road trips and most light TT's are made for the one weekend a month crowd. When we started looking for a replacement in a floor plan that we wanted, my first requirement was that it was able to carry at least 3,000 lbs. I believe those with the hightest capacity have the greatest chance of survival. As far as leaks, that's a crapshoot based on the mood of the workers who put your camper together that day. I've been on here long enough to read about $7K thru $150K campers with leaking problems when new. Keep a close eye on anything you buy for the first year and be diligent with preventative maintenance after that.


Very true. CCC and maintenance are the key to longevity. Any and all will leak at some point if not properly maintained. Stick and tin will rot and Fiberglass will delam.

Doug33
Explorer
Explorer
Speaking of aerodynamics and drag, have you seen the episode of Mythbusters, where they took a car and added a clay layer with round dimples to emulate a golf ball? Compared to a smooth surfaced car, the golf ball dimple car actually got significantly higher gas mileage in their tests.
2014 Keystone Bullet 281BHS
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Equalizer hitch
Nights spent camping in 2015: 25
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WoodGlue
Explorer
Explorer
WoodGlue wrote:
Maybe an CampLite Trailer

CampLite

Which is all aluminum w/ Azdel.

WoodGlue


I'll quote myself because I think this post got lost!

Here is their webpage:

Camp Lite Trailers

WoodGlue
2002 Land Rover Discovery II
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thomasmnile
Explorer
Explorer
MookieKat wrote:

Before I read this post, I had no idea what could go wrong with the light trailers. Now, I am paranoid about lightweight TTs. I feel like now I have to buy a heavy TT and buy a beast to haul it around to the tune of money down the drain on gas!

How many on this forum have had issues with delaminating or seams coming unglued in their lightweight TTs?


Mookie: What you're agonizing over can happen on ANY any laminated RV, regardless of weight or cost. Conversely, water intrusion into stick and tin won't result in delamination, but there's more wood that could sustain rot. However, it's easier to repair water damage in a stick n' tin. Bottom line, you have to be proactive with maintenance of the roof and all penetrations of the roof and sidewalls. Trailer type is a matter of personal preference; that's why manufacturers build both types.

What's irritating is when either construction type has leak issues straight from the factory............:M

coolbreeze01
Explorer
Explorer
Have you looked at Airstreams yet? Rivets vs welded can create a debate.
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beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
I have never ever read of anyone complaining about delamination with a stick-n-tin sided trailer. That is because it doesn't happen.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
PamfromVA wrote:
We had a 2007 Coachman TT fall apart on us. I think part of the problem is we use them for long road trips and most light TT's are made for the one weekend a month crowd. When we started looking for a replacement in a floor plan that we wanted, my first requirement was that it was able to carry at least 3,000 lbs. I believe those with the hightest capacity have the greatest chance of survival. As far as leaks, that's a crapshoot based on the mood of the workers who put your camper together that day. I've been on here long enough to read about $7K thru $150K campers with leaking problems when new. Keep a close eye on anything you buy for the first year and be diligent with preventative maintenance after that.

Good points Pam. I believe in the NCC net cargo capacity. rule as well. If the NCC is low I'm skeptical.
Nothing wrong with a stick and tin unit at all. There are plenty of 10+ years old plus models still going strong.
Smooth sided trailers are far from foolproof despite all the marketing and new fangled this and that propaganda that is meant to lead one to believe smooth sided trailer are the best thing since sliced bread.
I have a smooth side unit and so far I have had no issues however I know it has the potential for leaks and damage just liker any other RV.
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PamfromVA
Explorer
Explorer
We had a 2007 Coachman TT fall apart on us. I think part of the problem is we use them for long road trips and most light TT's are made for the one weekend a month crowd. When we started looking for a replacement in a floor plan that we wanted, my first requirement was that it was able to carry at least 3,000 lbs. I believe those with the hightest capacity have the greatest chance of survival. As far as leaks, that's a crapshoot based on the mood of the workers who put your camper together that day. I've been on here long enough to read about $7K thru $150K campers with leaking problems when new. Keep a close eye on anything you buy for the first year and be diligent with preventative maintenance after that.
2016 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
2017 Dodge Ram 3500
One DH
two very spoiled camping dogs

certified106
Explorer
Explorer


Before I read this post, I had no idea what could go wrong with the light trailers. Now, I am paranoid about lightweight TTs. I feel like now I have to buy a heavy TT and buy a beast to haul it around to the tune of money down the drain on gas!

How many on this forum have had issues with delaminating or seams coming unglued in their lightweight TTs?







I have even with proper maintenance but I had more issues with the cheap crappy flooring they put in them which utilizes the luan and styrofoam sandwhich system. I opted to go with stick and tin on my last to rigs and have been very pleased with them. I personally wouldn't worry about my light weight trailer falling apart if I owned one just keep up with the maintenance (as with any camper).

As to using more gas to haul a heavier camper around I'm sure it might use marginally more fuel but the frontal area of your camper has far more effect on fuel economy than the weight! I didn't even experience a 1 mpg decrease in fuel economy going from a 19 foot camper to a 30 foot camper and adding an additional 3,000 pounds in the upgrade.
2004.5 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins
Hypertech Tuner Running Stage 2
2013 Jayco 28BHS

MookieKat
Explorer
Explorer
Mike Up wrote:
MookieKat wrote:
WoodGlue wrote:
You're looking at a "Stick & Tin" trailer aka: Aluminum Siding!

WoodGlue


Is that good or bad?


Link
Mike Up's Post wrote:
I stay away from lightweight travel trailers now that I have a real tow vehicle. I looked at about 5 different models and even had a deal fall through right before I signed the papers because it's shoddy lightweight build was actually falling apart on the dealers showroom! I didn't realize how bad it was until we did a walk through with everything operating. Lightweights use "GLUED" or "VACUUMED" Styrofoam around cold/hot conducting aluminum frames, onto thin substrates as luan or other eco 1/16" thin boards. That in turn is glued (or vacuumed) again to decorative board on the inside and the thin fiberglass/gelcoat sheet on the outside. Laminated sandwiched walls. NO THANK YOU.

Since I've been paying more attention to these types of campers, I've seen 2 out of 3 with delamination (wall came unglued).

Plus the aluminum framing is conductive to allow condensation on the walls on certain models. PLUS some models use the aluminum framing around the borders and only have a few internal braces for windows with no normal studs. Then you have aluminum welds which are known to be weak. Ladder makers use rivets for strength as a feature over aluminum welding.

Plus these lightweights have lighter material inside as well. Walls flex around more, cabinetry is lighter and weaker, and believe it or not, even the floors and/or roofs are laminated on some models including "JAYCO". NO WAY!

I recommend the tried and true Aluminum sided stick and tin. In fact many are made with the same studs and wall framing as large mobile homes. I have family with them and they have lasted decades if maintained. If you want a camper to last, these are the ones.




Before I read this post, I had no idea what could go wrong with the light trailers. Now, I am paranoid about lightweight TTs. I feel like now I have to buy a heavy TT and buy a beast to haul it around to the tune of money down the drain on gas!

How many on this forum have had issues with delaminating or seams coming unglued in their lightweight TTs?