Where's the logic

[marpel]

I am currently in the process of replacing/greasing the bearings on our travel trailer, and have just finished the first two wheels and am putting them back on the trailer. At least I was until I discovered the castle nut requires a 37mm size socket. I have been to five auto parts/tool vendors so far and am discovering that 37mm is so rare that no-one carries that size. 36 is too small, 38 is too large and the SAE equivalents do not work either. 1 1/2 is too sloppy and the next step down won't fit.

Why in heavens would a North American (Crossroads in the US) trailer manufacturer suggest the bearings be tended to every 6000 miles (almost one year for us) and make a part that is crucial to the operation in such an unusual size? They also demand the nut be torqued to a specific torque, so a large crescent wrench can't even be used. I suppose if I was experienced enough in torquing stuff that I could guesstimate with a crescent wrench, but I am not and I know some have/will suggest a method of doing this without using a torque wrench, but I prefer to follow the manufacturer''s recommendation if possible. How bizarre.

Anyway, anyone know where I can find a socket of this size (in the Vancouver Canada area), that I don't have to order and wait for off the net. I am scheduled to leave the Vancouver area for a long trip, in three days and I'm sitting here with two wheels off the trailer.

Thanks in advance,

Marv

[Downwindtracke1]

36mm is the standard for 24mm bolt. It might just be 1 7/16,as larger Ny-loc are 1/16 less than standard. So may be castle nuts, too. We don't use them enough that I haven't really noticed. Aclands Granger should have what you need.

[_40Fan]

I have seen more people put these back on more tight then loose. Here is what I have done with any bearing type axle.

Tighten the nut while spinning the wheel/drum/rotor. A good grunt won't hurt it, but don't hurt yourself. Back the nut off a turn. Spin wheel/drum/rotor a turn then tighten nut by hand without hurting yourself. When the nut becomes hand tight, if the slot in nut aligns with cotter hole, you are done. If it doesn't, loosen the nut to align hole with the last slot in nut. Grab wheel/drum/rotor and give it an in/out pull. If you feel a lot of slop (clunk, clunk) too loose. Just a smidge and I mean very very little, good to go.

[dodge_guy]

Just get the bigger size in a 6 point. Shouldn't be an issue.

[Wind_River]

How about using a crescent wrench?

[starlord]

They do make several styles of "Cresent" adjustable sockets. Don't know if they come big enough though.

[mosseater]

marpel wrote:
Thanks for the comments, and to respond to some:

I was able to take the nuts off by hand, without the use of a tool.

As noted in my initial post, I know some (if not a lot) people tighten the castle nut without a torque wrench, however, the owners manual and the literature from the axle manufacturer (Lippert, if I recall) state to torque the castle nut to 50 ft lbs, to seat the bearings, then back off the nut, then finger tighten for the last step before securing the nut.

As this is the first time trying this operation, I figured I would follow the manufacturer's recommendations, at least until I had done this a couple times and was a bit more comfortable doing it "by eye".

If for no other reason, at least I can argue that I followed the manual to a tee, when I am passed by the wheel and hub as I am going down the highway at 60mph.:D

Marv

He is correct, it does say that. I believe upon replacing the bearing races they do this to assure everything is seated. I have been using 1 1/2" and it seems to fit. Don't know what to tell you about the sizing on your axle. Seems kind of strange. At any rate, 50 ft/lbs on a nut that size isn't all that tight, so the looser one would probably get you by. Even a big adjustable would work in a pinch as long as you're careful. Not preferred but if that's all you have, make due.

[westend]

I've worked on quite a bit of rolling stock and I'll tell you how I load wheel bearings: Assemble hub and bearings onto spindle, install washer and castle nut, tighten castle nut while turning hub (this can be with wheel on or off), when castle nut is tight, back off until hub turns freely and cotter key can be inserted. If I have the wheel off, I then put it back on and check for freeplay by pulling and pushing on top and bottom of wheel. You should not be able to shake wheel with any freeplay. This method involves some "feel" rather than brute strength or visual input.

As was posted, a 1 7/16" socket will fit a 37mm nut. It is found most commonly in 3/4" drive size so if you only have a 1/2" drive set, an adaptor will be necessary.

Good luck with the bearings.

[marpel]

Thanks for the comments, and to respond to some:

I was able to take the nuts off by hand, without the use of a tool.

As noted in my initial post, I know some (if not a lot) people tighten the castle nut without a torque wrench, however, the owners manual and the literature from the axle manufacturer (Lippert, if I recall) state to torque the castle nut to 50 ft lbs, to seat the bearings, then back off the nut, then finger tighten for the last step before securing the nut.

As this is the first time trying this operation, I figured I would follow the manufacturer's recommendations, at least until I had done this a couple times and was a bit more comfortable doing it "by eye".

If for no other reason, at least I can argue that I followed the manual to a tee, when I am passed by the wheel and hub as I am going down the highway at 60mph.:D

Marv

[lanerd]

Probably with his fingers if it was installed correctly.

[mich800]

wildtoad wrote:
This may sound like a silly question, but if you don't have the proper wrench, how did you get them off?

Good Point

[K_Charles]

Try a 6 point socket.
1-7/16 should work.

[mowin]

lanerd wrote:
I have always tightened the castle nut down until it stops, and then backing it off to the next notch where the tang washer (or cotter pin) will fit into the castle nut. Over tightening the nut can lead to the spindles and bearings overheating, which can damage them. I don't think I've ever heard of "torquing" wheel bearing castle nuts before.

Ron

X2...I've never heard of torqueing a wheel bearing castle nut to a specific point before. I've repacked or replaced many trailer bearings in my day, just seat the nut than back it off a little.

[lanerd]

I have always tightened the castle nut down until it stops, and then backing it off to the next notch where the tang washer (or cotter pin) will fit into the castle nut. Over tightening the nut can lead to the spindles and bearings overheating, which can damage them. I don't think I've ever heard of "torquing" wheel bearing castle nuts before.

Ron

[wildtoad]

This may sound like a silly question, but if you don't have the proper wrench, how did you get them off?