To answer the original question:
I have used both, and like Huntindog says, they really do different things. The axels on my new TT are much further apart than my old one, so x-chocks and their ilk probably won't work for me now. I do have the strong arm bars on my stabilizer jacks, and they work very well.
That said, I don't try to remove all motion, only enough that I don't feel like I'm at sea again. If I wanted to eliminate all motion, I'd just stay at a hotel.
Here's a pic of the strong arms. I only used the 4x4 in my driveway because it was handy. I usually use the lego type blocks under them.
I have used both, and like Huntindog says, they really do different things. The axels on my new TT are much further apart than my old one, so x-chocks and their ilk probably won't work for me now. I do have the strong arm bars on my stabilizer jacks, and they work very well.
That said, I don't try to remove all motion, only enough that I don't feel like I'm at sea again. If I wanted to eliminate all motion, I'd just stay at a hotel.
Here's a pic of the strong arms. I only used the 4x4 in my driveway because it was handy. I usually use the lego type blocks under them.
I won't comment specifically, but several posts since mine have brought up points that I consider basically "red herrings". One is the weight and storage issue, but these jackstands stack together and take up less vol and weigh less than a set of Lynx levelers and weigh way less than a single 4x6x4 block of wood that some use under their existing stab jacks to reduce the extension something that the screw type don't suffer from for the most part so a simple flat piece of light wt. wood is all that's now needed for ground support. Second is several have mentioned jack stands at the corners and that is exactly where YOU DON'T WANT THEM. You need to get them close enough to the axles to get weight off the suspension and tires and reduce the unsupported frame lengths where frame flex is minimized. This is a balancing act that is dependent on each trailer, it's floorplan, and how it's loaded so this is where the experimenting takes place, but I contend there is an optimum placement that will give you a stability that can't be matched or even come close to with all the chocks and extra stabilizer bars you can install on your current system.
As far as the hassle goes one thing as I got older is I now carry and use a decent step stool to sit on when installing my jack stands, working on the sewer hookups and dump valves, and when hooking up my trailer. This save the back and knees and we use it to go in and out of the trailer when on the road during rest stops since it's more convenient to use that the fold down steps. I have a couple of the following step stools that are fantastic for the height, size and even has storage and a handle and you can get them at HD for under $30. I think it's called STACK-ON STEP N STOR. In fact you can actually store all those jack stands in this stool I think.
Larry
As far as the hassle goes one thing as I got older is I now carry and use a decent step stool to sit on when installing my jack stands, working on the sewer hookups and dump valves, and when hooking up my trailer. This save the back and knees and we use it to go in and out of the trailer when on the road during rest stops since it's more convenient to use that the fold down steps. I have a couple of the following step stools that are fantastic for the height, size and even has storage and a handle and you can get them at HD for under $30. I think it's called STACK-ON STEP N STOR. In fact you can actually store all those jack stands in this stool I think.
Larry
