Charging House Batteries

[GAR2]

Hello All,
I apologize for my absence. In 2022 I had two strokes, so my quest for a T/C got sidetracked. Lots of rehab, lots of prayer, learned to rewalk, lots more of rehab. Now I’m back to work and taking my life back.
I picked up a real nice Leer mid rise topper for $250. that fits my 2002 F350, same color, and looks sharp.

Some are saying just use the 12V+ connector on my 7 pin trailer connector to charge the house battery(s) and others are saying buy a Honda generator, but I’m reading about DC to DC chargers /isolators and maybe even a solar panel while I’m gone camping / hunting and it’s sunny out.

Anyway, I know this is the place to get solid advice, it’s all a new concept for me. I’m almost 61 so I’m wanting enough stored power for CPAP, cell phone, radio. and a few other small items. I’m thinking two 100AH batteries so I have 100 amps to use and only draw batteries down to 50%. Not really sure what I can run on 100AH for a 8 to 10 hour period. But it beats tent camping at my age??

I appreciate the help, Glenn

[GAR2]

Thank again for everyone’s feedback. I’ve been working on creature comforts this past week; a rope handle to make the tailgate easy to close and lower from the inside, gasket between the tailgate and and back of bed, and new plastic seal for glass door to fit tightly against tailgate protector.

[theoldwizard1]

GAR2 wrote:
OK, thanks guys! I was also thinking a 12V electric blanket or invertor with a 115V AC heating pad for colder deer hunting weather.

Heated mattress pad is the way to go ! My Dad's old cabin had very poor heating in one of the bedrooms. The heat mattress pad made it very comfortable.

Skip the electric blanket ! Just add a second regular blanket

[StirCrazy]

mbloof wrote:


Back in the day, 'solar' (for JUST the panels) cost $10-20 a Watt!
(Current cost ~$1-2 a watt)

- Mark0.

much much less than that now, unless you're talking about buying from a rv dealer. 350watt panels go for 230.00 or less if you shop around now

[ScottG]

Lifepo4's are generally rated appx. 4000 cycles at 80%. So if you drained them flat and recharged them every day, they would still have 80% of their capacity after 10+ years of hard use.
So given how most of us would really use them, there's no reason to worry about being nice to them.

[mbloof]

Back in the day, 'solar' (for JUST the panels) cost $10-20 a Watt!
(Current cost ~$1-2 a watt)

The charge controllers have come down as well, while sometimes 'free' as a package deal with some panels, they can cost anywhere from $40-400.

However, the #1 problem with solar is not the cost it is with the availability of LIGHT - sunlight that is.

Forgetting for the moment that you will NEVER see the rated output of ANY solar panel you purchase, solar works best with the most unobstructed (no shade!) view of the sun as it moves across the sky from sun-up to sun-down.

So if your in the desert with no mountains or trees it will work much better than (for example) in a dense forest it won't work well or at all.

As an example, there are places that I park where my battery will be fully charged by 12:00 noon (if not by 2PM) and others where I get NO charge at all.

IMHO: Considering the cost of a Generator $400-2000 tossing ~$200 for some solar can be cost effective.




- Mark0.

[GAR2]

StirCrazy..............sent PM

[jimh406]

If you are hunting and not driving, I'd buy a generator unless you will only be out a day or so. In that case, two batteries should be enough to power what you listed. A generator will put a lot more power in a short amount of time compared to your truck.

Consider a Buddy Heater instead of an electric blanket.

[StirCrazy]

GAR2 wrote:


Now that I’m reading about the Lithium battery’s it appears I can draw them down farther without damage to the battery. What is a safe level to bring those down to? Also with being non venting, non explosive I could mount one inside the back of the truck with me.........and be safe while sleeping or resting. I did look at a 200AH Litthium but depending on how far down I can safely discharge a 100AH may suffice. Am I on track with the differences? Let me know where a safe point of discharging would be and I’ll try to figure out my AH usage.

I’m good at wiring and mechanical so I’ll be doing the install myself.

Thanks!

LFP batteries are rated by cycle life. that is defined as a charge from 0% go full then a discharge to 0%. They are guaranteed to have approximately 3500 cycles at this depth of discharge (100%) depending on the manufacturers it may vary a bit. Another thing to know is end of cycle life is defined as the battery only having 80% of the original capacity left. so even after your 3500 cycles you still have a 80AH battery from your original 100AH battery and who knows how long it will last at that capacity.

You can do things to increase that cycle life if you want, so using only 80% of the capacity is one. I use between 90% and 10% and you can gain even more by using less but when you think about it if you camp every weekend at 3 cycles per weekend it will take you 22 years till you hit the end of the cycle life. some of the things that will shorten the life a lot though is charging when the battery is at a temperature below 0C. you can discharge then below 0 just not charge, so for myself I have mounted mine inside the conditioned space of the rv

I would still recommend a 200amp minimum. solar is a good send but as I found out its best to have a few days battery reserve for those rain storms and such.

[GAR2]

Now will definitely be a good time for me to add the DC to DC charger. Earlier this year I changed the water pump, rebuilt the cooling system, rebuilt the oil cooler, added a power master starter, made and replaced all new electrical cables, battery to battery, battery to starter, and grounds with 2/0 cable, new battery terminals for adding accessories, which already include my 17,500lb. Winch and Snow Plow. I’m am on the Diesel Stop Forum all the time and go by username Big Horn. I can highly recommend it for Ford Diesel owners looking for help.

Thank you to All who have replied here at RV.Net, one thing I’ve been looking for.......does the forum have a “Like” button? Maybe I’m just blind, but screen isn’t very big on my IPhone but I don’t own a laptop anymore.

Glad to be back on the forum.

[GAR2]

c.traveler2 wrote:

GAR2 wrote:
Hello All,
I apologize for my absence. In 2022 I had two strokes, so my quest for a T/C got sidetracked. Lots of rehab, lots of prayer, learned to rewalk, lots more of rehab. Now I’m back to work and taking my life back.
I picked up a real nice Leer mid rise topper for $250. that fits my 2002 F350, same color, and looks sharp.

Some are saying just use the 12V+ connector on my 7 pin trailer connector to charge the house battery(s) and others are saying buy a Honda generator, but I’m reading about DC to DC chargers /isolators and maybe even a solar panel while I’m gone camping / hunting and it’s sunny out.

Anyway, I know this is the place to get solid advice, it’s all a new concept for me. I’m almost 61 so I’m wanting enough stored power for CPAP, cell phone, radio. and a few other small items. I’m thinking two 100AH batteries so I have 100 amps to use and only draw batteries down to 50%. Not really sure what I can run on 100AH for a 8 to 10 hour period. But it beats tent camping at my age??

I appreciate the help, Glenn

you've gotten plenty of advise on solar and batteries I'll address your DC to DC and solar charger. I've been using Renogy combine unit for 4 years now with zero problems and would fit your needs, it's easy to install a has a simple setup all types of batteries here's a link to that unit....Renogy dc to dc/ MPPT solar charger

Cool, thanks for the link- I’ll watch their video tonight

[srschang]

You'll get tons of opinions on how far down you can discharge a lithium battery. The most common worry is that you will shorten the battery's life or reduce the battery capacity if you take it down to 0% often. I have only once run my two lithium batteries to 0%, and that was an accident.

I can only speak for Battleborn batteries, as that's what I have and have researched. The manufacturer says:

Will I damage my battery if I bring it down to 0%?

No, you will not damage the battery. We do however recommend that you put devices in your system to cut the voltage discharge on your battery at 11.5V for convenience. Our BMS system prevents the battery cell from being damaged in the event you do discharge to 0.

A Battleborn battery is 10 volts at 0% capacity when it shuts itself off. They also say you have 5 days to recharge the battery when it shuts off at 10 volts. If you don't recharge it within 5 days, it will be damaged and void the warranty.

Oh, and when they say to "put devices in your system to cut the voltage discharge on your battery at 11.5V for convenience", that's about 5% charged.

[GAR2]

notsobigjoe wrote:

GAR2 wrote:

Post here.

http://photoposting.is-great.net/?i=2

Thank you!!!

[GAR2]

[GAR2]

The only deep cells I am currently familiar with are the wet cell lead batteries as I have a pair for my 24V trolling motor, so I have always heard only draw down to 50% and recharge.

Now that I’m reading about the Lithium battery’s it appears I can draw them down farther without damage to the battery. What is a safe level to bring those down to? Also with being non venting, non explosive I could mount one inside the back of the truck with me.........and be safe while sleeping or resting. I did look at a 200AH Litthium but depending on how far down I can safely discharge a 100AH may suffice. Am I on track with the differences? Let me know where a safe point of discharging would be and I’ll try to figure out my AH usage.

I’m good at wiring and mechanical so I’ll be doing the install myself.

Thanks!