Oh, let's see where to begin....
๐Pulled the propane tanks and the sheet metal propane compartment, discovered why the box had pulled away from the wall on the top (Floor and become separated from the wall).
Cleaned the propane compartment box, replaced the factory original rubber hose going from the regulator to the connection in the box.
Modified the compartment's locking tabs so that they'd fit the water rear foot print of the newer tanks.
Took both propane bottles in and had the valves replaced, according to the service center they're taking 4.5 gallons of propane now (they were purged and test filled before getting the stamp of approval from the shop, total cost for two new valves installed plus the purge and the bottles filled, $69), so I finally have useful 20lb horizontals again.
Using a stack of old 2x6s and a couple lengths of 2x4, used the camper's own weight to push the drooping and loose over hang floor back up into position, laid a bead of 3M 5200 between the wall and the floor and then anchored it into place with 3" screws.
I now have a little line of screw holes in my siding that are filled, and will be looking for a little roll of pin striping tape to put on to hide them.
Soaked the floor and the walls around where the compartment was with Minwax Wood hardener, and once it was dry, reinstalled the propane compartment enclosure, laying a bead of sealant around the perimeter to seal it to the outside like it should have been, driving in screws along the perimeter of the box to secure it into place at the opening to keep the seal.
Reinstalled the propane tanks and the retaining tabs and front anchors so that they were properly secured to the floor again.
Retired the last of the POL connectors on the regulator for a new ACME nut, I can now remove both propane connections to the onboard bottles without the need of a wrench :).
Reinstalled the door on the propane compartment.
Pulled out a temporary bracing fix for the sag from under the shower pan and then repeated the floor jacking up process on the driver's side so that the floor is anchored securely again, filled more screw holes in.
Replaced some more of the grey polybutlyene cold water pipe that was installed by a previous owner (original cold water line was galvanized steel and copper) and replaced it with brass sharkbites and pex pipe, including the feed coming from the water pump to improve cycling behavior.
Adjusted the water pump's pressure switch a bit so that the flow control will work all the way down to slow trickle on the faucet without causing the pump to pulse.
Today the camper will likely get a bath so I can finish doing the seam reseal, and so I can pull my furnace's outer vent and install the steel reinforcement plate and new ear for the driver's side rear tie down.
Up still to do, touch up the paint where it's been damaged, finish the replacement of the cold water line, touch up the paint on the tub of the camper again and fix the rear tail light wiring on the passenger side once and for all.
Then, it's on to the truck (this weekend) to replace the damaged air bag, get the exhaust replaced, install the new radiator, transmission cooler, transmission pan, do the oil, top up the fluids and give it all a bath so it's ready to mate with the camper.
My Blog -
The Journey of the Redneck ExpressCB
Channel 17Redneck Express
'1992 Dodge W-250 "
Dually"
Power Wagon - Club Cab Long Bed 4x4 V8 5.9L gashog w/4.10 Geared axles'1974 KIT Kamper 1106 - 11' Slide-in'2006 Heartland BigHorn 3400RL
