Today I de-winterized the camper. Over the weekend I installed a second solar panel. It's a Kyocera 140w added to the previous Kyocera 135w giving me a total of 275w (on paper at least). The single 135w panel wasn't quite enough to keep the DC compressor refrigerator running. I installed the panel Saturday and the fridge has been on since while the batteries still show a full charge.
The plate in front of the panel is where the Winegard crank up antenna had been. Reception wasn't that great and I needed the space for the solar so I removed it. I put in a bulkhead F-connector and I plan to use that connection for a Dish Tailgater.
The plate in front of the panel is where the Winegard crank up antenna had been. Reception wasn't that great and I needed the space for the solar so I removed it. I put in a bulkhead F-connector and I plan to use that connection for a Dish Tailgater.
Winterized it again, for perhaps the last time of the year. Thought I'd get away with it thyis weekend but after a 60+ degree opening day at Coor's Field with the Rockies, we are supposed to get 6-14" of snow and a high of 20 something tomorrow. Timing might be perfect
though....one last chance for the dealer to catch my truck in the act of the cold start issue it has. I'm dropping it off tonight for something else but if it does its thing we can catch it before next winter.
Looks familier:
(except yours is blocked by that spare tire!)
and for scale:
🙂
Now that is a pumpkin! (Though not as good as the newer replacement from Dana, the S-130
It's from a good thread awhile back that ended up discussing the differences in some of the larger rear axles on 450's/550's and 4500/5500's here Might be useful reference for someone.
though....one last chance for the dealer to catch my truck in the act of the cold start issue it has. I'm dropping it off tonight for something else but if it does its thing we can catch it before next winter.
mike mck wrote:
I think I figured it out. Truck and a shot of the Dana 135
Will load the camper next weekend.
Looks familier:
(except yours is blocked by that spare tire!)
and for scale:
🙂
Now that is a pumpkin! (Though not as good as the newer replacement from Dana, the S-130
It's from a good thread awhile back that ended up discussing the differences in some of the larger rear axles on 450's/550's and 4500/5500's here Might be useful reference for someone.
getting ready to trailer to a horse show next weekend with Ruth. She is competing and I am the Show EMT, funny how that works. Put the 48" super truss and Huskey wd hitch into place.
mike mck wrote:jamminalong wrote:mike mck wrote:
Bought a F550 XLT to put under it
Pics please!! :B
Now I need to learn to add images:?:h
I think I figured it out. Truck and a shot of the Dana 135
Will load the camper next weekend.
Was finally able to finish the job that I have started before new year.
I was changing the charge wiring to 1/0 AWG, but had to wait for the surepower relay. Mine was recalled and took a long time to get a new one. I asked them for an upgrade while changing it in and got it 4 free. 🙂
Previously I had a 1315-100amp, but changed that to 1314-200amp, wich was much better with the 1/0 wiring and to uni-directional for solar. The recall came at the right time. 😉
By the time it got here, the truck was gone for a transmission rebuild. I got it back Wednesday.
So yesterday I placed the 1314-200amp relay and connected it, placed and connected my 200A shunt and A-meter, connected the "emergency start" switch, the "emergency cut-off" switch and two led-lights.
Then I placed our extra battery in a hiddenpower from Torklift. We now have a total of 315AH from 3 trojan 27TMX batteries.
When all this was done, I tested my two-way-usage-with-a-one-way-battery-separator-theory. (omg) And it worked! 🙂 The reason is: I only want one-way charging, because I don't want to loose solar power to charge the truck batteries. When I'm on shore power, I can choose to charge the truck batteries anyway by using my theory. In other words, I can use it semi-automatic bi-directional if I choose so.
The theory was to hold the emergency start switch for some time (which seems to be 12 seconds) and then release it. After this time, the one-way separator stays closed because it sees more than 13.2V at the truck side. I saw 5 to 10 amps of charging current going from camper to truck, so this is the amount that would get lost by solar if I kept the bi-directional separator.
Some pictures:
The ammeter works as soon as the separator makes a connection, so I can see when the batteries are charging and by how much. "Plus" means that the truck alternator is charging the camper batteries. "Minus" means that the camper is charging the truck, which is the case in the pictures.
And now I'm going outside to dewinterize and install a water saving shower head.
Greets!
I was changing the charge wiring to 1/0 AWG, but had to wait for the surepower relay. Mine was recalled and took a long time to get a new one. I asked them for an upgrade while changing it in and got it 4 free. 🙂
Previously I had a 1315-100amp, but changed that to 1314-200amp, wich was much better with the 1/0 wiring and to uni-directional for solar. The recall came at the right time. 😉
By the time it got here, the truck was gone for a transmission rebuild. I got it back Wednesday.
So yesterday I placed the 1314-200amp relay and connected it, placed and connected my 200A shunt and A-meter, connected the "emergency start" switch, the "emergency cut-off" switch and two led-lights.
Then I placed our extra battery in a hiddenpower from Torklift. We now have a total of 315AH from 3 trojan 27TMX batteries.
When all this was done, I tested my two-way-usage-with-a-one-way-battery-separator-theory. (omg) And it worked! 🙂 The reason is: I only want one-way charging, because I don't want to loose solar power to charge the truck batteries. When I'm on shore power, I can choose to charge the truck batteries anyway by using my theory. In other words, I can use it semi-automatic bi-directional if I choose so.
The theory was to hold the emergency start switch for some time (which seems to be 12 seconds) and then release it. After this time, the one-way separator stays closed because it sees more than 13.2V at the truck side. I saw 5 to 10 amps of charging current going from camper to truck, so this is the amount that would get lost by solar if I kept the bi-directional separator.
Some pictures:
The ammeter works as soon as the separator makes a connection, so I can see when the batteries are charging and by how much. "Plus" means that the truck alternator is charging the camper batteries. "Minus" means that the camper is charging the truck, which is the case in the pictures.
And now I'm going outside to dewinterize and install a water saving shower head.
Greets!
