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5th wheel rebuild from major water damage

LangsRV2
Explorer
Explorer
The Before part 2. The duct tape was used to get it home from Oklahoma in January.
It is a 2006 5th wheel 32' bunkhouse.

Bad repair job from previous owner

They used close to an inch thick of buytl tape instead of Eternabond tape.

The insulation is in pretty good shape

The damage ๐Ÿ˜ž

The roof

The worst of the front wall

The water was on the inside of the wall and must have puddled in the tyvek. The wood was still wet

You can only see the damage to the front of the trailer, the roof and sides about 2' back are bad too.
Enough work for one day, this trailer demo is harder than it looks on youtube But now that we are started we have to keep going.

We don't have a barn big enough to store the 5th wheel so it's under a tarp. It's not like the water wasn't already getting in anyway.
Any tips or help would be appreciated. We have had a hard time finding much good information and/or how to videos or websites on doing a massive rebuild like this one. If you know of any send the link!
111 REPLIES 111

LangsRV2
Explorer
Explorer
We finally decided that the RV had won. It was beyond our ability to know how to fix the problem we had created. We had to call a professional.
Knowing how much time we had already put into the 5th wheel we weren't looking forward to a huge repair bill to get it put all pulled apart and put back together. But we just didn't know what else to do. Around here RV repair shops charge $150+ an hour so it could add up to thousands of dollars really quick. Plus we just hate the thought that we had to give up and pay someone to fix it. Something no DIYer likes to do ๐Ÿ˜ž
Also they don't make house calls somehow we would have to get the RV to the repair place while still being torn apart.
Craigslist to the rescue!
We happened to come across an RV repair guy with lots of experience who also made house calls! When he came he said our problem was we were out of square. He recommended we cut back the framing to make it match the angle of the siding. (I should have posted this problem on this board before we made the call as others here have said the same thing)
He assured us that removing this small amount of wood would not greatly reduce the strength of the entire structure. This was partially because there is actually two layers of faming on the sides. The part we were skiving down was glued, screwed and stapled to the wall stud framing directly behind it. He said if it was in his shop that is what he would do. So that's what we did.
The RV pro recommended using an oscillating saw to do the cutting because you could be very precise. Then finish up with a belt sander. Neither tool of which we owned. Our contractor neighbor to the rescue! Side note here, we tried early on to convince him to work on the RV but he basically said he wouldn't touch it with a 10' pole! (smart guy) Thankfully he let us use several of his tools. We feel honored to be good enough neighbors that a contractor will lend us his tools.
Anyway, the oscillating saw didn't really give us the results we wanted, it ended up pretty jagged in some spots. This was mostly because we couldn't get the saw flat enough long enough as there was framing in the way. Perhaps if we would have had a longer blade or maybe not standing on a ladder 6 feet in the air or perhaps being more experienced with said saw. It was so sensitive it had a mind of its own sometimes. Cool tool though, putting it on the list of tools to buy just because we don't have it.
The sawzall wasn't much better. The siding was in the way and we worried about damaging it with the sawzall. So we just did the best we could. If I was doing this again (reality check, NEVER!) but if someone else was to want to do this I would recommend just using the belt sander from the start. It was much easier and gave a better result. Just buy some extra coarse sand paper and grind it all down until you get to where you want to be.




It really did work just as planned! We got the wood to line up with the siding just about perfectly. It looked a little rough in some spots but overall we were happy with the results.

LangsRV2
Explorer
Explorer
BurbMan wrote:
Have you tried All-Rite? They have a bunch of trim options.

Marking this website for future reference! It looks like they have LOTS of great parts.
Thanks for the link!

LangsRV2
Explorer
Explorer
AirForceAngler wrote:

I'm also curious about some things I saw and read on the first page. You mentioned that the floor did not have any rot, but from the last few pictures of your first post it appears that the floor did have some rot. At least I think I was looking at the floor. Could this also be part of the alignment problem?

The plywood floor did NOT have ANY rot, not even a speck! I was totally shocked.

I'm not sure if the front end of all 5th wheels are built the same but this one did not have the walls sitting on top of the floor. They are actually completely sitting on supports on the outside of the steel frame. There were/are 2 2x2's stacked on top of each other bolted to the steel frame. The walls, including interior wall board, sit on those "floor plates" bolted to the frame next to the edge of the plywood flooring.

These supports were totally rotted out but because of this design it saved the floor. The water ran down the walls and soaked the wall plates and rotted them out.

I'm not sure if this design is unique to this brand of if all 5th wheels are built this way. One thing this design does besides saving the floor from rot is it does give about 4" more living space in the RV because the walls are not sitting on the floor but outside of it. Structure wise I would think it wouldn't be as strong as the other way around.

AirForceAngler
Explorer
Explorer
I was just following this for the first time and I'm sorry to see you're having such problems with the last step. That sounds like something that would happen with me.

I'm also curious about some things I saw and read on the first page. You mentioned that the floor did not have any rot, but from the last few pictures of your first post it appears that the floor did have some rot. At least I think I was looking at the floor. Could this also be part of the alignment problem?

I wish you luck and hope you can get this figured out. Very frustrating, I know.
2013 Toyota Tundra DoubleCab 4x4 iForce 5.7
2014 Grey Wolf by Forest River 26BH TT

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
Have you tried All-Rite? They have a bunch of trim options.

If not I have an RV supplier directory and will see if I can find some OEM mfrs to call. Somebody must make something that will bridge that gap.

LangsRV2
Explorer
Explorer
westend wrote:


*You could either buy or have made a larger trim edge to cover the discrepancy. Any siding installer with a brake should be able to make this.
*You could buy larger FRP or fiberglass panels with gelcoat to make a new front panel/s.
*You could buy aluminum panel, even with vinyl coating, in basic colors, to make a new front panel/s.

I'm thinking that making a wider trim corner is going to be the cheapest route. If you were closer, I'd be on my way over with trim coil and the brake.


Great ideas. The larger trim option seemed to be the best option. However after checking with RV repair shops and online we couldn't find anything wider than the standard. I didn't think of checking with a siding installer. That could have been a good option. Goes back to you don't know what you don't know.
With all the alternative options water getting in was still a concern. The front end of the 5th wheel gets 80 mile an hour driving rain and wind going down the road. It has to be perfectly sealed.
Plus I have to admit aesthetics was a bit of a concern. We didn't always want to be known as the red necks in the RV parks.

LangsRV2
Explorer
Explorer
westend wrote:
It's amazing how many nails a guy uses when he's not thinking about taking it apart.:B


Yes, we put it together so it would never come apart. Screws, nails, staples glue. It has it all! We were very careful to really make sure everything was good and solid. Tearing rotten wood apart is a piece of cake. But now it's put together much stronger than it was from the factory. It's not going to come apart easy like the first time.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Yup, thanks for describing the problem and the caution. Your main issue is that the front framing isn't square. What you have is basically two rectangles, the bottom of the front wall and the top, angled part of the wall. Have you put a tape measure up to the top piece, diagonally, from corner to corner? If there is any luck, it may be that only the top part of the wall is way off. This still doesn't cure your dimensions issue but it might let you get the cap back on.

Back in my training days as a carpenter, this would be one of those lets-calm-down-and-just-get-it done right kind of deals. I'd have to bust out the prybar, the sawzall, and redo the framing. It's amazing how many nails a guy uses when he's not thinking about taking it apart.:B

Hope you can get the last bit of your project done. I followed the thread and you really were conscientious about how you did the framing, especially the roof. Wishing you the best of luck.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

LangsRV2
Explorer
Explorer
Here are a few more close ups you you can see the problem a bit more. The biggest problem was the fiberglass cap not aligning. If it was in position on the left it was way out on the right. If it was aligned on the right it was off on the left.

We pulled the cap off and took these photos to show how the structure is off just a little bit. But it might as well be a mile off because that cap is just not going on.




I'm posting this not to show that we don't know what we are doing but to hopefully help the next person along who is going to attempt a project of this scope. Had we known what to be aware of in the beginning we would have saved ourselves a big headace!

plumberdad70
Explorer
Explorer
an electric planer to shave off a little wood and you be good as gold
1997 Ford E-350 XLT 15 passenger
2000 Rockwood Ultra Lite 2602

stage
Explorer
Explorer
May be a stupid idea, but could you use a Sawzall and follow the siding. I know that you would be removing some of the structural integrity but...
2004 Four Winds Hurricane 29d
1997 Jeep Wrangler toad
2016 Ford Edge toad

westend
Explorer
Explorer
LangsRV2 wrote:
westend wrote:
What about installing new aluminum siding to the front?

Yes that option also crossed our mind. However, we had a perfect good fiberglass front cap. Plus we already knew that the siding was not available for purchase anywhere nearby. That's why we ended up with an unmatching gray piece to fix the side pannel. We would have had to pay a bunch and wait for truck delivery. The cost and more importantly the time factor was a problem since we had already installed the interior wall board. Had the siding been availble locally we probably would have taken that option.

I guess you still have a few options and I'll throw a few up here. If you find they aren't to your liking, it won't cause me any heartache.

*You could either buy or have made a larger trim edge to cover the discrepancy. Any siding installer with a brake should be able to make this.
*You could buy larger FRP or fiberglass panels with gelcoat to make a new front panel/s.
*You could buy aluminum panel, even with vinyl coating, in basic colors, to make a new front panel/s.

I'm thinking that making a wider trim corner is going to be the cheapest route. If you were closer, I'd be on my way over with trim coil and the brake.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

LangsRV2
Explorer
Explorer
westend wrote:
What about installing new aluminum siding to the front?

Yes that option also crossed our mind. However, we had a perfect good fiberglass front cap. Plus we already knew that the siding was not available for purchase anywhere nearby. That's why we ended up with an unmatching gray piece to fix the side pannel. We would have had to pay a bunch and wait for truck delivery. The cost and more importantly the time factor was a problem since we had already installed the interior wall board. Had the siding been availble locally we probably would have taken that option.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
What about installing new aluminum siding to the front?
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

LangsRV2
Explorer
Explorer
I haven't posted for a long time mostly because the "last" step of putting on the fiberglass front cap that should have been easy ended up being a nightmare.
After all the time and work we did on the 5th wheel this one step proved to be just about impossible to overcome. Talk about depressing


From a distance it doesn't look like there is anything wrong. But if you look at the cap along the bottom, the left side is slightly higher than the right side.
From the side you can really see the problem is.

It's only about 3/4 of an inch but that might as well have been a mile.

You can see in this photo of the side that the wood framing extends slightly past the aluminum siding making the front cap not able to lay flush with the siding.
We are not only out of square side to side but also the angle across where the two parts of the front wall meet. They should have been exactly lined up with the siding.

You can also see that once the cap is in place the walls of the RV are about 1/2-3/4 inch wider than the fiberglass cap.
this is the other side (passenger) You can see we have the same problem here, the wood structure was a little better.
Unfortunately that didn't make much difference. Because the entire structure was off the only way to get the cap to sit even somewhat was to have it on crooked. This then makes the area where the bend is to not fit to the angle of the wood structure. It really is a mess.
We tried and tried to figure out a way to get the cap to lay flat enough to get trim on it. But it just would not. No matter what we did it just wasn't going to fit. We even tried to find wider trim but could not. This is such a critical spot for water penetration it had to have trim or we would have water damage.
The only other option we could think of was to take all the interior wall pannels down to expose the studs and try to take it apart and rebuild everything. This would be basically redoing everything we have already done but now instead of the rotten wood it would be new and super strong. Remember from our last posts that everything is screwed, glued, and stapled??? At this point after all the hundreds of hours we have put into the project we just wanted to be done.
We had come so far but now had hit the brick wall. Talk about being between a rock and a hard place.
Time to call in a professional.
To be continued...