cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Adding 12V Receptacles

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
I would like to add some 12v receptacles and first thought I would have to run wire (still not a bad idea and I will come back to that), but it was suggested that I could tap into a nearby 12v light fixture. I am all LED now so I am not concerned about overload. So I can use the BR reading lamp to add a receptacle near the bed for my CPAP, and I can use a light over the sofa to add one there. I would also like one at the LR entertainment center for a 300w inverter to power TV and DVD player, but there are no lights there and am not sure if I should use the Jensen power wire or not. Any suggestions for that or about the plan in general.
My issue with running good 12v wire is I am not sure how to run that through my fiver and I am not sure how to connect to the battery. Direct battery connection of several wires doesn't seem like a good idea and it seems the existing wire runs to the converter at the back of the trailer. And would I need to run both a hot and ground wire?
Feel free to chip in on whatever topic you feel comfortable with.
Thanks
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar
26 REPLIES 26

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
I had an interesting development while installing two RoadPro 12v outlets. Neither worked! After a night to cool off and think it over, I connected one to a battery and it worked fine. I got a volt meter and tested the house wiring for the lights. The hot and ground were reversed over the dining table and the BR reading lamp had the light fixture wired backward, which I had followed during installation, but the house wiring was correct. So I reversed the wiring of the outlets and they work fine. Is this sort of thing common?
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
hedge wrote:
Below I've linked to a thread in the Truck Camper forum where adding 12v plugs was recently discussed. We used the Blue sea stuff, it's spendy but pretty good quality. I ran complete wiring back to the 12v side of the converter where I had a couple extra circuits available. I ran 12gauge wire, probably overkill but that's what I had.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27709063/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1

This is EXCELLENT! Thank you!
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

hedge
Explorer
Explorer
Below I've linked to a thread in the Truck Camper forum where adding 12v plugs was recently discussed. We used the Blue sea stuff, it's spendy but pretty good quality. I ran complete wiring back to the 12v side of the converter where I had a couple extra circuits available. I ran 12gauge wire, probably overkill but that's what I had.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27709063/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1
2017 F350 Platinum DRW
2013 Adventurer 89RB

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
tenbear wrote:
A few general thoughts:

Many of the lighting circuits also power fans. Although the LEDs reduce the current drain, the fans will still draw the same old current.

My lighting circuits use #14 wire which will safely carry 15A. The problem may be voltage drop, especially when powering an inverter. It depends on the wire length.

Yes, you will have to run 2 wires unless you can get to a convenient ground, +12v and ground. The voltage drop will depend on the total wire length, +12v and ground.

Thanks, George! It looks like the only wire run I will need (desire) is for a hard wired inverter at the entertainment center. The two 12v outlets I plan to add will just power the 3 amp CPAP and a 12v table fan when necessary. I hope to get the two outlets done this weekend and have plenty of time to think about the hard wired inverter and that may be after the paired 6v battery upgrade which has a higher priority.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
A few general thoughts:

Many of the lighting circuits also power fans. Although the LEDs reduce the current drain, the fans will still draw the same old current.

My lighting circuits use #14 wire which will safely carry 15A. The problem may be voltage drop, especially when powering an inverter. It depends on the wire length.

Yes, you will have to run 2 wires unless you can get to a convenient ground, +12v and ground. The voltage drop will depend on the total wire length, +12v and ground.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
Peg Leg wrote:
I love all the idea's. The RV has now been replaced, henceforth it will be known as "Think tank on wheels". The symbols will be the Thinker statue sitting on a toilet with wheels.

Thank you for that picture in my head (or latrine for the army). LOL!
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

Peg_Leg
Explorer
Explorer
I love all the idea's. The RV has now been replaced, henceforth it will be known as "Think tank on wheels". The symbols will be the Thinker statue sitting on a toilet with wheels.
2012 Chevy 3500HD Dually 4X4
Crew Cab long bed 6.0 gasser 4.10
2019 Open Range OF337RLS
Yamaha EF3000iSE
retired gadgetman

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
Desert Captain wrote:


As I initially recommended I will be drawing power from the back of the house fuse box which is mounted vertically at the foot of our bed. It will be a very short run, about 2' to where the new DC (cigarette), outlet will be mounted. No problem running the 250 watt inverter, heck it runs the 22" Vizio and the DVD player without complaint and they draw a lot more than the 2 amps AC of my Cpap. I will look into getting a DC power cord for the Cpap but that too will plug into my new 12V outlet.
:C

Location, location, location! My house fuse box and charger are at the rear in the kitchen and my head board is over 30' away at the nose so we both have solutions we should be happy with. ๐Ÿ˜„
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

Desert_Captain
Explorer III
Explorer III
"Look at some of my more recent posts for my solution to the 12v outlet at the bed. The draw from a CPAP using direct 12v is low enough that I have no concerns about tapping into the wires for the reading light, but I would be concerned using an inverter with that setup."

As I initially recommended I will be drawing power from the back of the house fuse box which is mounted vertically at the foot of our bed. It will be a very short run, about 2' to where the new DC (cigarette), outlet will be mounted. No problem running the 250 watt inverter, heck it runs the 22" Vizio and the DVD player without complaint and they draw a lot more than the 2 amps AC of my Cpap. I will look into getting a DC power cord for the Cpap but that too will plug into my new 12V outlet.

:C

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
Desert Captain wrote:
SkiSmuggs wrote:
Desert Captain wrote:
I am in the same boat (RV?), as you. I need to add a DC outlet near our bed as I will be picking up my new Cpap from the VA this afternoon. I will then plug my 250 watt inverter into the DC outlet and the Cpap into that.
:C

Captain, almost all CPAPs will run off 12V. It is less complicated and uses less battery as you eliminate the 30% inverter loss. I ordered my 12v cable from CPAP.com and it works great right into the 12v receptacle. My only problem is that I have to run a 12V extension cord from the BR TV cubbie. If you get one of those, get a NOCO as they have heavier wire. The first extension I got was a POS that my inverter (before I got the CPAP 12V cable) wouldn't run on for more than a few seconds.
I will have to look for the DC fuse panel, but I believe it is under the stove at the rear of the trailer and it would be a dog to run it that far. Seems like a small fuse/distribution panel directly off the battery might be a way to go, but just guessing.


I will still need a source of 12V power next to the bed regardless whether I use the 250 watt inverter (which does not lose anywhere near 30%), or order a DC power cord for the Cpap. I agree a small distribution panel fed directly off the house batteries will work just fine if that is easier to install just make sure it is sufficiently fused and fed by adequate gauge wire.

:C

Look at some of my more recent posts for my solution to the 12v outlet at the bed. The draw from a CPAP using direct 12v is low enough that I have no concerns about tapping into the wires for the reading light, but I would be concerned using an inverter with that setup.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

Desert_Captain
Explorer III
Explorer III
SkiSmuggs wrote:
Desert Captain wrote:
I am in the same boat (RV?), as you. I need to add a DC outlet near our bed as I will be picking up my new Cpap from the VA this afternoon. I will then plug my 250 watt inverter into the DC outlet and the Cpap into that.
:C

Captain, almost all CPAPs will run off 12V. It is less complicated and uses less battery as you eliminate the 30% inverter loss. I ordered my 12v cable from CPAP.com and it works great right into the 12v receptacle. My only problem is that I have to run a 12V extension cord from the BR TV cubbie. If you get one of those, get a NOCO as they have heavier wire. The first extension I got was a POS that my inverter (before I got the CPAP 12V cable) wouldn't run on for more than a few seconds.
I will have to look for the DC fuse panel, but I believe it is under the stove at the rear of the trailer and it would be a dog to run it that far. Seems like a small fuse/distribution panel directly off the battery might be a way to go, but just guessing.


I will still need a source of 12V power next to the bed regardless whether I use the 250 watt inverter (which does not lose anywhere near 30%), or order a DC power cord for the Cpap. I agree a small distribution panel fed directly off the house batteries will work just fine if that is easier to install just make sure it is sufficiently fused and fed by adequate gauge wire.

:C

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
Dakota98 wrote:
I recently put a TV & Blu-ray in my camper but went a different route in powering both units. I purchased a small deep cycle 35 amp battery along with a 200 watt dc/ac inverter. The combined amp draw is about 3-4 amps per hour, so I'm good for about 6-8 movies before having to recharge the battery. I did this so as not to draw from the main battery. Also, I too have to use a CPAP & I have a another seperate 35 amp battery that runs it using the DC power cord that came with it, no inverter neccessary. Once again same reason, no draw from the coach battery. Bought the batteries for $50 each & the 200 watt inverter for $23 on Ebay. If I'm dry camping & need to charge either of the two auxilary batteries I simply start my generator & use a battery charger.

I thought about that too, but it is a heavy, ugly thing to deal with. I tried a large portable jump start battery and it lasted about 1.5 nights even though I left it charging at the ranger station each day. It just never got a full charge during that time. Now I know that a deep cycle would be better and still have the Grp 24 that I replaced with the grp 27. That will be replaced by pairs of 6v golf cart batteries for even longer life. I am going for convenience now as I hope to do more dry camping in the future.
I looked those up and they weigh less than the Grp 24 I have and have those nice handles. They should be good for several days with a CPAP using the 12v cord.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

Dakota98
Explorer
Explorer
I recently put a TV & Blu-ray in my camper but went a different route in powering both units. I purchased a small deep cycle 35 amp battery along with a 200 watt dc/ac inverter. The combined amp draw is about 3-4 amps per hour, so I'm good for about 6-8 movies before having to recharge the battery. I did this so as not to draw from the main battery. Also, I too have to use a CPAP & I have a another seperate 35 amp battery that runs it using the DC power cord that came with it, no inverter neccessary. Once again same reason, no draw from the coach battery. Bought the batteries for $50 each & the 200 watt inverter for $23 on Ebay. If I'm dry camping & need to charge either of the two auxilary batteries I simply start my generator & use a battery charger.
I'm an expert in only one field....I believe it's somewhere in Kansas.

2000 / 22' SKYLINE NOMAD LITE
1998 DODGE DAKOTA / 5.2L= 8mpg.
2006 POLARIS ATV
1500/1200 Watt Champion generator
Yada Wireless Back Up Camera
1998 Dyna Wide Glide
USMC 68-74

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
myredracer wrote:
You might consider installing one of these Sigma charging centers. I just installed one and used a spare circuit & fuse in the converter panel.

Running wiring around a ceiling isn't as hard as one might think. I've done lots of it now. Take down anything from the ceiling that can provide access into the ceiling cavity like skylight bezel, AC vents, lights, speakers, etc. Use a coat hanger or electricians fish tape (available cheap at HF). You will probably have to leapfrog from access point to access point. You can go up and down inside walls if needed to run far enough horizontally. You can also cut small access holes in the ceiling inside cabinets, fridge compartment, etc. Use a sharp utility knife for cutting luan. If there is wiring on a wall already, there is a chance if it goes up into the ceiling space, you can fish another wire or two down in the same hole. I've done that a few times.

The hardest part about running wiring in a ceiling cavity is that it is very cramped and if you have big hands, you may not be able to reach in very well. If you have one of the new arched ceilings, they are really cramped, especially at the outer edges.

Watch out for sharp screws too. The factories like to use lots of sharp tipped screws in ceilings and you'll even find wiring laying on top of them.


Yes, I will have something like that charging station, thanks. And thanks for the RV wiring run quick course.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar