โJul-31-2014 09:01 AM
โAug-03-2014 06:06 AM
โAug-01-2014 06:36 AM
hedge wrote:
Below I've linked to a thread in the Truck Camper forum where adding 12v plugs was recently discussed. We used the Blue sea stuff, it's spendy but pretty good quality. I ran complete wiring back to the 12v side of the converter where I had a couple extra circuits available. I ran 12gauge wire, probably overkill but that's what I had.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27709063/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1
โAug-01-2014 06:27 AM
โAug-01-2014 05:28 AM
tenbear wrote:
A few general thoughts:
Many of the lighting circuits also power fans. Although the LEDs reduce the current drain, the fans will still draw the same old current.
My lighting circuits use #14 wire which will safely carry 15A. The problem may be voltage drop, especially when powering an inverter. It depends on the wire length.
Yes, you will have to run 2 wires unless you can get to a convenient ground, +12v and ground. The voltage drop will depend on the total wire length, +12v and ground.
โJul-31-2014 07:50 PM
โJul-31-2014 06:23 PM
Peg Leg wrote:
I love all the idea's. The RV has now been replaced, henceforth it will be known as "Think tank on wheels". The symbols will be the Thinker statue sitting on a toilet with wheels.
โJul-31-2014 06:02 PM
โJul-31-2014 04:30 PM
Desert Captain wrote:
As I initially recommended I will be drawing power from the back of the house fuse box which is mounted vertically at the foot of our bed. It will be a very short run, about 2' to where the new DC (cigarette), outlet will be mounted. No problem running the 250 watt inverter, heck it runs the 22" Vizio and the DVD player without complaint and they draw a lot more than the 2 amps AC of my Cpap. I will look into getting a DC power cord for the Cpap but that too will plug into my new 12V outlet.
:C
โJul-31-2014 04:13 PM
โJul-31-2014 03:49 PM
Desert Captain wrote:SkiSmuggs wrote:Desert Captain wrote:
I am in the same boat (RV?), as you. I need to add a DC outlet near our bed as I will be picking up my new Cpap from the VA this afternoon. I will then plug my 250 watt inverter into the DC outlet and the Cpap into that.
:C
Captain, almost all CPAPs will run off 12V. It is less complicated and uses less battery as you eliminate the 30% inverter loss. I ordered my 12v cable from CPAP.com and it works great right into the 12v receptacle. My only problem is that I have to run a 12V extension cord from the BR TV cubbie. If you get one of those, get a NOCO as they have heavier wire. The first extension I got was a POS that my inverter (before I got the CPAP 12V cable) wouldn't run on for more than a few seconds.
I will have to look for the DC fuse panel, but I believe it is under the stove at the rear of the trailer and it would be a dog to run it that far. Seems like a small fuse/distribution panel directly off the battery might be a way to go, but just guessing.
I will still need a source of 12V power next to the bed regardless whether I use the 250 watt inverter (which does not lose anywhere near 30%), or order a DC power cord for the Cpap. I agree a small distribution panel fed directly off the house batteries will work just fine if that is easier to install just make sure it is sufficiently fused and fed by adequate gauge wire.
:C
โJul-31-2014 03:31 PM
SkiSmuggs wrote:Desert Captain wrote:
I am in the same boat (RV?), as you. I need to add a DC outlet near our bed as I will be picking up my new Cpap from the VA this afternoon. I will then plug my 250 watt inverter into the DC outlet and the Cpap into that.
:C
Captain, almost all CPAPs will run off 12V. It is less complicated and uses less battery as you eliminate the 30% inverter loss. I ordered my 12v cable from CPAP.com and it works great right into the 12v receptacle. My only problem is that I have to run a 12V extension cord from the BR TV cubbie. If you get one of those, get a NOCO as they have heavier wire. The first extension I got was a POS that my inverter (before I got the CPAP 12V cable) wouldn't run on for more than a few seconds.
I will have to look for the DC fuse panel, but I believe it is under the stove at the rear of the trailer and it would be a dog to run it that far. Seems like a small fuse/distribution panel directly off the battery might be a way to go, but just guessing.
โJul-31-2014 03:21 PM
Dakota98 wrote:
I recently put a TV & Blu-ray in my camper but went a different route in powering both units. I purchased a small deep cycle 35 amp battery along with a 200 watt dc/ac inverter. The combined amp draw is about 3-4 amps per hour, so I'm good for about 6-8 movies before having to recharge the battery. I did this so as not to draw from the main battery. Also, I too have to use a CPAP & I have a another seperate 35 amp battery that runs it using the DC power cord that came with it, no inverter neccessary. Once again same reason, no draw from the coach battery. Bought the batteries for $50 each & the 200 watt inverter for $23 on Ebay. If I'm dry camping & need to charge either of the two auxilary batteries I simply start my generator & use a battery charger.
โJul-31-2014 03:13 PM
โJul-31-2014 02:56 PM
myredracer wrote:
You might consider installing one of these Sigma charging centers. I just installed one and used a spare circuit & fuse in the converter panel.
Running wiring around a ceiling isn't as hard as one might think. I've done lots of it now. Take down anything from the ceiling that can provide access into the ceiling cavity like skylight bezel, AC vents, lights, speakers, etc. Use a coat hanger or electricians fish tape (available cheap at HF). You will probably have to leapfrog from access point to access point. You can go up and down inside walls if needed to run far enough horizontally. You can also cut small access holes in the ceiling inside cabinets, fridge compartment, etc. Use a sharp utility knife for cutting luan. If there is wiring on a wall already, there is a chance if it goes up into the ceiling space, you can fish another wire or two down in the same hole. I've done that a few times.
The hardest part about running wiring in a ceiling cavity is that it is very cramped and if you have big hands, you may not be able to reach in very well. If you have one of the new arched ceilings, they are really cramped, especially at the outer edges.
Watch out for sharp screws too. The factories like to use lots of sharp tipped screws in ceilings and you'll even find wiring laying on top of them.